Taka

I'll change spark plugs, cable, cap, and rotor this weekend, is there anything I need to be aware of? any tips? it's first time I'll try to change myself. just curious if there're things I should check or do together while changing those?
Thanks

Lex Luthor

It's all pretty straight forward, the little seals are a bit of a pain on the distributor covers, trying to align them perfect when you re-install the covers, they want to slide a little so try to keep them from moving while you're working on it, but it's all easy to do, once you get all the covers off you'll see what's involved. Let me know if you have any questions, i've enclosed a pic with the covers off so you can see how to get started, this is also a good time to have a look-see at the timing belt.
- LL

P.S. - You do know there's two caps and two rotors, yes? You referred to only one of each.

Taka

I just spent 5hrs today on this. I couldn't take out right distributor cover - (I couldn't access the rotor/cap)- so I gave up on right one(passenger side). I coudln't find the way to take out the 3rd screw on distributor cover... should I try it again tomorrow?...hope engine'll start no problem
Thanks for the pic, lex

Lex Luthor

Yeah, the third screw is a pain in the ****, I assume you mean the one at the bottom, you can get to it bro, be patient and use the right tools, I think I used a 1/4" drive socket and a short extension, let me know if you still have a problem.
- LL

Taka

yep, you are correct, the third screw on the bottom.
now I have two questions. Do I have to change rotor/cap? I already changed plugs and cable. The distributor cover is just a pain in the azzz. I'll work on it tomorrow again, but if I can't access the third screw, I'm gonna just give it up .

next question, do I have to install back the engine covers? I understand that it protects plugs from water/rain. does everybody put them back on?

Thanks again.

VQT

Taka,

keep working at it. Think about what kind of socket/extention combo or even the open end key to get to that screw. Yes, I remember that the Pass. side cap is the hardest one to change. As for the rubber gasket for the distributor cover kept coming out, when you try to put the cover back, use some type of gasket sealant to keep it stay in place.

I had to loosen the radiator hose, and a bunch of bolts in front to re-align the rubber seal that the last guy who work on my car didn't put it back together correctly.

VQT

Yes, you need to replace the caps and rotors after so many miles on the car. Older car need to be change every 30K miles, I guess change caps and rotors on a ~100K miles Lexus in in order

If you can find the location of the A/C filter, you can take the dist. cover out (I haven't found the A/C housing for the filter yet).

The bottom bolt for the dist. cover require a long 1/4" extension. You can't see it while trying to loosen the bolts. You need to look with a flash light (best) or a shop light to locate the bottom bolts then just feel it when you try to loosen it.
The next hard part is to take the rotor screw out, one of them will be very tight space

This is why the dealer charge $500-$800 to change the plugs, wires, caps and rotors. Just think of the monay you just save so you can buy a door hinge that will give you problem sooner or later.

Taka

I gave up for this time, I already put them back on. and it's too hot to work on the car outside... I'll change RH rotor/cap next time. but after I changed plugs, I notice that idle RPM has increased from 500 to 750.

everytime I uninstall/install something, there're some screws left on my hand. I always forget which screw goes where..:P

anyways, I feel my car runs better than before, Thanks guys.

TK

pcmw

Have you considered that asking a shop to give you a hand with that ONE screw might not be asking too much from them. When I worked in a shop years ago, people would ask all the time to get a hand with those funny things...

I had one guy push his car down the block to our shop for help getting his belt back on after he realized that the tensioner was stronger than he was.

VQT

You must of forgot to plug a hose or something, the RPM should stay the same as before the wires and plugs changed.

Try to find the place to install the extra screws back. Next time, put the nuts and bolts you take out in a zip lock bag and label them. It will help you to remeber where it should go. Also take pictures if you don't remeber which part goes where

Keith13b

iTrader: (3)

Actually it is quite normal for the rpm to jump like that. Just shows how bad your old ignition parts were. The computer will re-learn w/ the newer parts and the rpm should drop down a little after a few weeks.

On my Rx-7 I installed new ignition boxes, coils, wires, and plugs. RPM jumped to near a thousand. Took me a while to re-adjust all the timing, etc, to get it back to within specs.