Timing belt help needed..
#1
Timing belt help needed..
Alright so I have the engine basicly stripped down to the timing belt, but one metal cover remains, it had the idler pulley attached to it and one bigger black pulley that spins freely. Basicly everything but that is removed, crank pulley, tensioner, alternator.. so on. All of the guides I've printed out are for LS400's and they all have clutch fans, so its a different bracket/cover thing. Do I need to remove the free spinning black pulley before I can take the cover off?
#2
#3
#4
Thats the only difference which should make it easier with your SC4 since you don't have the fan attached to the water pump that you have to remove. What else is in the way? I've been reading that for a couple of days as I am about to do the timing on my 99 SC4 soon .
#5
I have no idea whats up with this thing, I started getting it off, decided I'll do it the way my pops wanted to do it, now I have a broken AC condensor and its still stuck in there. ****ing great.
#7
The hydro pump is not so easily removed
Hey Bro,
You will need to completly remove the A/C Compressor, if you don't want to crack the lines, it will need to be tied to the side out of the way, but it must be removed, and the bracket the A/C compressor mounts to, is the hydro pump. The hydro pump has mounting tabs for the compressor hince without that comprerssor out of the way, no go on removing the Hydro pump. You also have to remove all of the front engine lower covers, but if have removed the crank, than I'm sure you have done that already. Working on the this stuff with the motor in the car, Well It ain't easy, but what in life is, but it can be done.
Regards
Bart
You will need to completly remove the A/C Compressor, if you don't want to crack the lines, it will need to be tied to the side out of the way, but it must be removed, and the bracket the A/C compressor mounts to, is the hydro pump. The hydro pump has mounting tabs for the compressor hince without that comprerssor out of the way, no go on removing the Hydro pump. You also have to remove all of the front engine lower covers, but if have removed the crank, than I'm sure you have done that already. Working on the this stuff with the motor in the car, Well It ain't easy, but what in life is, but it can be done.
Regards
Bart
Trending Topics
#8
Hey Bro,
You will need to completly remove the A/C Compressor, if you don't want to crack the lines, it will need to be tied to the side out of the way, but it must be removed, and the bracket the A/C compressor mounts to, is the hydro pump. The hydro pump has mounting tabs for the compressor hince without that comprerssor out of the way, no go on removing the Hydro pump. You also have to remove all of the front engine lower covers, but if have removed the crank, than I'm sure you have done that already. Working on the this stuff with the motor in the car, Well It ain't easy, but what in life is, but it can be done.
Regards
Bart
You will need to completly remove the A/C Compressor, if you don't want to crack the lines, it will need to be tied to the side out of the way, but it must be removed, and the bracket the A/C compressor mounts to, is the hydro pump. The hydro pump has mounting tabs for the compressor hince without that comprerssor out of the way, no go on removing the Hydro pump. You also have to remove all of the front engine lower covers, but if have removed the crank, than I'm sure you have done that already. Working on the this stuff with the motor in the car, Well It ain't easy, but what in life is, but it can be done.
Regards
Bart
#9
your motor is non interference thus you will never make contact between the piston and the valve no matter if you rotate the crank or the cams separately.
set the crank to 0* and cams to the correct position. it all has marks. the new belt you get also should have marks for crank and cam alignment.
depending on the brand they might actually be off. if that happens you wont have engine damage but you will get a CEL code and poor performance.
i know that OEM belts and Continental timing belt kits are awesome. they use the same tensioner and idlers as oem. the Mitsuboshi belt i used once at work was off on the markings. luckily i have done so many timing to know better and do it by hand.
post a picture of what you are having problems with.
set the crank to 0* and cams to the correct position. it all has marks. the new belt you get also should have marks for crank and cam alignment.
depending on the brand they might actually be off. if that happens you wont have engine damage but you will get a CEL code and poor performance.
i know that OEM belts and Continental timing belt kits are awesome. they use the same tensioner and idlers as oem. the Mitsuboshi belt i used once at work was off on the markings. luckily i have done so many timing to know better and do it by hand.
post a picture of what you are having problems with.
#11
hey snakeyes how about donating to the lexls website since u used the tips there?
Last edited by LiCelsior; 06-27-10 at 10:47 AM.
#12
You do not have to take the ac compressor off. You just have the make sure you got all of the bolts off of the pulley bracket including the one from underneath near the oil filter and the one that connects the compressor and the bracket. Then loosen the back bolt on the compressor a little and it will drop down a few mm in the front, allowing you to slide it out.
#13
Yeah I got it like a week ago lol, just had to drop the front of the ac compressor and loosen the back. putting the belt on and getting it lined up was much easier than I thought, took me like 15 minutes.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
atropine
LS - 1st and 2nd Gen (1990-2000)
15
08-28-11 07:49 PM