MIGS

iTrader: (15)

SC300_704

iTrader: (5)

^^^ lol that's the same look people give me when i tell them.

SuicidnS13

iTrader: (2)

I think built not bought (IMO) means to be bought already finished with all the parts picked, payed for and installed by someone else. Now if you buy all the parts and actually design the build and choose who to employ to install some of the parts YOU still built the car. You didnt buy the car that way. This is my envisioning anyways. I feel you let the best do what they are best at. You dont tune your car your self do you? If you do more power to you... Just saying...

frankdms

iTrader: (1)

na-t, easy and cheap to replace if it goes. I love the 1j's rpm band but for cheaper power, go na-t. IMO. Do it yourself! You can! It is not as bad as some make it out to be.
Good luck with what you decide to do man.

Mr.1.5

I bought mine with a 1.5jz in it. On the way to GA it was smoking like a train due to a bad piston. A week later I put a short block from a GS in it. The car has been great every since. It dynoed 432rwhp at 14psi with a slipping clutch and a W58. The previous owner that built the car did a really good job and I'm greatfull to have an SC that someone built so nicely. As of July 3rd I added a V160 to the mix. IMO there is nothing wrong with buying a car that has been built nicely and I love my setup(I bust *** everytime I race on a rd in Mexico).

SuicidnS13

iTrader: (2)

Yea nothing wrong with buying built cars. Its just more of a risk. Most people sell cars because they are sick of dealing with their BS. Thus why I prefer to build stock cars. How ever as Ive gotten older I no longer like to lay down on my back under a car so I employ people to do that work for me. While I supervise obviously... You gotta pay to play, either with your back and your knuckles, or your hard earned cash... either way the job will get done...

N00bie909

iTrader: (5)

Thanks for making this thread quick question though what kind of tranny are you guys running in the 1jz swaps? w58 or r154 and how does that factor in your idea of being happy with the 1jz I would like to do mine but not sure of keeping the w58 tranny in mine.

SuicidnS13

iTrader: (2)

Tranny choice depends on final hp goals or budget limits. That is all there is to answering your question. Will you be happy with 450hp or do you REALLY need more? To make more you will be spending atleast 5k more on a proper fuel and turbo setup along with another 2k on stand alone and tuning. So whats another 3k on a v160 or a small 1000-1500 for an r154. Your happiness is highly dependant on budget and realistic goals. I really have a budget of around 10k available right now. But Id rather only spend 5k since all Im looking for is around 400hp.

An NA-T setup with proper turbo and fuel parts alone will run atleast 4k. Than theres labor and a decent stand alone which adds easily another 3k to the price of the build. This doesnt include headgasket, labor for machining the head and all the other maintenance/parts/belts you also should do to any older motor.

My biggest dillema is spend 5k on a super nice 1jz swap or 6k on a kinda nice 2jz swap. Or 8k on a nice/reliable na-t swap the way I would want it. I, personally am very picky when it comes to my builds. This is why I started this thread. To ask from personal experiences if the 1jz ultimately made them happy.

aka paco

iTrader: (15)

My first SC was stock and i did a 1JZ swap in it and loved it..

my SC now is NA-T.. runs great.


I personally prefer my 1JZ to my NA-T though.. for one i hate having a distributor and overhead intake manifold. my NA-T does sound better, and i already have a single on it, But i still prefer the 1JZ overall..

now a 2jzgte would probably satisfy more all around..

94_soarer

iTrader: (8)

First off i would like to say that NA-T is not a bad way, honestly its all about what you want..I just got done wit my 1JZ swap about a week ago and i must say i am extremely happy!!!

I did the 1JZ swap in my sc300 because it was a very easy swap, also because the SC300 is my only car and i need it to be reliable for now until i get something else..

While if you dont have alot of money to spend on a NA-T setup then i would look into doin a 1J or 2J swap

1JZGTE & 2JZGTE = MAP SENSOR

2JZ-GE NA-T = MAF

IMO if you dont have money for a standalone for a NA-T setup then its not worth it...cuz since a NA-T runs a MAF you will have a hard time makin the car reliable and havin it run 100%

While if you do a 1JZ or GTE swap you are running a Map sensor and you can make good power with it on jus a piggyback, it would be more reliable....and pretty much stock..LoL

Like i said its all about what you want, But i LOVE my 1J 5spd SC

shonuff53

iTrader: (3)

for 500whp, I would stay with the 2jz that you have. its basic math if you swap in a 1j and add the cost of 500whp parts its more than if you just 500whp your 2jz don't believe me then do the math. here is a quick description of what happened for me.. my setup (1jz 67mm turbo cams) vs a buddy (supra na-t 67bb) I had 25 more horsepower but he had 10lbs of torque more than me and his power band woke up way before mine and he had a shorter geard rear end. results are he pulled away and I would start to catch him then we would shift and it was rinse and repeat. I spent more money on my setup doing it myself btw and I have a piggy back and he had a standalone so there you have it just keep your 2j ftw. I love my 1jz and its gonna be in my car for a long time but the truth is parts are found more abundantly for the 2j which ends up equaling more money saved in your bank account.

attzor

iTrader: (1)

By mexico do you mean Norcross?

There's a line I'd draw for buying something thats already built, after my first experience, I wouldn't buy a singled 1jz car, I'd buy a stock 1jz car though. That way I have a platform to go from and I don't have to worry about the previous owner slopping together some ebay turbo kit.

SuicidnS13

iTrader: (2)

My basic math calculations (for my build needs atleast) cost a ton more than a basic 1jz swap. Im only looking for 400 RELIABLE wheel hp. To get reliable Id need a stand alone along with atleast 2-3 hours of tuning. That alone adds over 2k to the build price. Not that I cant afford it, it just doesnt make financial sense to me. The car is currently driven more than 3x per week so I need it to be as reliable as possible. I even had issues while running AEM EMS with my 2jz swapped S14.

lexforlife

iTrader: (7)

all i can say is wow in this thread

some real misinfo here and some solid info


170k on a 2jz and your worried.. if compression numbers are solid and leakdown test are solid wheres the worry..

i am at 120k and runnin 600rwhp and can and do at times daily drive my na-t..been boostin hard with this car since 2007 same stock motor that came with car..


1jz are not bad , but there are alot of hidden costs and unforseens that rear their ugly heads not to mention not knowing the true merits of the motor going in.. here in sc land (florida) i know of many 1jz setups that have gone to motor heaven prematurely with all sorts of issues from bad connectors , bad /worn coil packs , beaten on bearings etc etc etc


na-t can be a formidable force if done right .. for the orignal posters goals a tt headgasket , arp studs, basic fuel and a aem , yes aem and you got more than you bargined for 500rwhp and drives like stock.... i have witnessed tooooo many 1jz coupes here in florida runnin safc piggys and always complain about car does this car does that , hesitates while transitions into boost , just all kinds of issues and some have gone standalone route even on the 1jz so to me i dont count the standalone into the equation because its fast becoming the norm for a safe and solid runnin car.. yes the dizzy can be a eyesoar to some , but with all the gte setups around me and the complaints i keep hearing about damm crank sensors , coilpacks going out coilpack connectors cracking etc etc , i think i will stick with the dizzy i mean afterall wat do dragsters run at the track , a dizzy.. the over the top manny design is actually better than the gte plen. it creates a ram air affect splits the air equally into 3 cyl banks at a time , on the gte cyl 6 and 5 tend to go out for the delivery of air to them seems to be more than the rest because of the square design and the air hitting the back of it ...


whichever route you go , best of luck , be careful , take your time and explore all options and do it right the first time

99SC42

iTrader: (44)

Wow here is my input guys I had a 1JZ for about 6months and the first 2 weeks it was fun as hell after that it was boring a hell.
Decided to go Single after the rear turbo stated to smoke , that was unfinish because the manifold wouldn't clear the oil return line LOL all type of crap.
Long story short I sold the setup and Na-T and never looked back, Power is unbelieveable and Yes i have AEM.
If i had to do it again I will do the Na-T again.
When I first got in the SC game my first mod was Turbo(Na-T) built block and head then i was told Na-T is a "Waste of time" blah blah.
So i just went ahead and bought a 1JZ the next day dropped it in my car and the whole process cost me as much AS my Current Na-T Setup .
My Na-T Set up Cost more than some 2JZGTE Setup,I learned of thing though after going back and forth "Spend your Money Wisely" that's all i will tell you.
For me the 1JZ was a mistake, and I regret it.
I deleted the Distributor on my Car by using the VVTi head, and coil on plugs.
And as for the people that cry about the intake manifold on the Na i can remove mine in 3min