akmpres

I just hit the 100K mark in the SC400, I have switched to mobil 1 blend, but instead of using 5w-30 I put in 10w-30, i read that for higher mileage motors, it is better for it, the car runs like new, i dont have any problems with it as yet, i just want to perserve it the way it is! next oil change im going to switch to full syn, but then again ive read that its better to go with blend and then syn. Also, i get a slight lifter sticking noise, i dont hear it when i am on the open road but if i am in a parking garage where i can hear the echo of the engine i can hear the tick tick tick noise, is that normal, the guy at one of the shops said to use marvel mystery oil, but i don't know about that ****, what do you guys recco as a good oil additive, also, im not sure, but i do alot of city driving stuck in traffic and then i do alot of highway drving, mostly over the speed of 80 85, some times i push it past 120, and i drive long hauls, 300 mile streches in a single sitting, every 1400 miles it runs a 1/2 quart low, is that normal as well? it even did it with the blend that i put in? i thought these types of oils didnt get burnt up easly, ok guys, happy drivng

MadMaxSC400

I switched to full synthetic (first Castrol Syntec then Mobil 1 SuperSyn) cold dead turkey and the car works great. The M1 SuperSyn has no discernible smell! It's weird! Works good though I think the Castrol Syntec lubricated better, the motor is a bit noisier with the M1.

lex400sc

The tick tick tick noise you hear is bad valve timing. You'll eventually need to get that adjusted for the best fuel efficiency/performance.


The Lexus dealership here uses Quaker State 5W30. Is that a good brand to go by? I hear conflicting views about them? Maybe I should buy some Mobil 1 and go back to changing oil myself...

SC300T

Or the tick tick tick could just as easily be normal fuel injector noise. Not an issue, but these injectors click louder as they age.

SC300T

I switched to synthetic on a 90k mile Camry V-6 and it now smokes on startup... I think there are issues with starting synthetic on a higher mileage vehicle that have always seen dino oil. I heard something about how the synthetic interacts with things like valve stem seals, etc. Its no biggie, just switch back to the regular stuff if you notice a problem. Perhaps someone has a more technical explaination.

Lex Luthor

I use the M1 5W30 with an M1 'High Efficiency' oil filter, plus I use the M1 75W90 in the rear, never a problem.

TGRich

Is use Castrol Syntec and have been happy with that (not to mention that I boycott Mobil/Exxon products due to their woefully poor environmetal policies/practices). I heard that if you use Syn Blend you are wasting you're money. Also, on high mileage cars, Synthetic oil has smaller particles (smallers particles= less friction = better lubrication) which make it easier for it to leak out of worn seals, etc....
Hope this helps

ps- I chance my castrol syntec every 4,000
Probably a bit excessice, but better safe than sorry

akmpres

but are you guys using the 10W or the 5W?


what about the additives?


and im not burning oil, im leaking it, it is on the passnger side front of the car, it looks like a seal is broken or something. at least its not burning, that would be bad, leaks i can handle.


some body said some thing about sticky lifter noise, is that what that tick tick could be?

lex400sc

5W warms up faster. Good for cold climates.

10W stays cooler. Good for hot climates.

UZZ32

I wouldn't recommend any oil additives.
Your oil consumption doesn't sound too excessive.
For the 91-97 V8 Mobil recommend Super XHP a 20W-40 - not any Mobil 1 product - perhaps next change you could consider a thicker oil.
More oil info for your V8 here:

http://www.users.bigpond.com/pgscott...ilAnalysis.htm

Includes links to tech sheets for Mobil 1 - read about the exact differences between the 5W full syn and 10W blend you are now using.

The tick tick noise is very common. I would be interested to know if you can determine what side of the engine it is coming from. The shim between the camshaft lobe and valve bucket is now too thin and needs to be replaced with a thicker one.
Not really a DIY sort of job.
There is a special service tool available to depress the buckets so you can take the shims out.

You can see photos of the shims and cams etc here:

http://www.users.bigpond.com/pgscott...camshaft2.html

Here is a pic from the Toyota Parts cd -
http://www.users.bigpond.com/pgscott...cd/partscd.htm