drkenevil

Just got a 92 SC300 and I was driving it today when it sudenly stalled on me. I can start the car and everything works for about 10 seconds then it just dies on me. The car was running fine for the past week until this happened.
I had it towed home and it now seems to be fine but I am afraid the problem will come back.
The tow truck driver thinks it's the fuel pump and my brother in law says it's the igniter. Has anyone had this happen or have any idea of what the problem may be? Thanks!

LexVIP

Do you hear the fuel pump when you turn the key to "on"? (located in the trunk and the pump should come on for about 2-3 seconds). If you do, its not the fuel pump. I had the same problem with both of my SC and it was the Main ECU. The cap's are bad in the ECU. My first SC, i changed the fuel pump, fuel pump ecu, fuel relay, mass air flow, all 6 injectors and it wasn't the problem. Then got a rebuilt main ECU and started right up and drove it from S.F. to S.J. with no problem! A year later, my second sc with 437,xxx miles had the same problem. Without buying all those new parts, i swap in a rebuilt main ECU and solved the problem again! Here is a web site where i had it rebuilt: http://www.siaelec.com/

You can also do a seach on this fourm to see what a bad cap looks like. If you have a friend with a 92 to 95 sc300, just swap the ecu over to test if that works to save you some money.

drkenevil

Thanks,
I will see if I can hear the fuel pump. I just think it's wierd that the car runs now after I had it towed home.

LexVIP

My car did the same after i towed it home. You should have the ECU checked. You dont want the ECU to go on beyond repairable. The "caps" inside the ECU might burst and distroy the whole ECU pin outs. PM me if you need help on this.

Kira X

iTrader: (24)

It's the fuel pump ECU. Type in "12v fuel mod". I'll get you a link if you have any trouble finding it.

Klaus

iTrader: (1)

Don't do the 12v mod just as a diagnostic proceedure- no need to rip up your car's wiring. Just run a paper clip between the B+ and FP connections on your diag port in your engine bay. Has the exact same function as the 12v mod.

romycha1

iTrader: (3)

Kinda sounds like a MAF issue... I only say this because on one of my previous cars, I was experiencing the same thing, and it turned out I had a leak in my intake pipe.

Klaus

iTrader: (1)

seriously? just patching the leak solved it? was it before or after the MAF?

EUROJulian

MAF measure amount of air entering the engine for computer to calculate mixture. If there is so called false air entering the motor, bypassing the MAF sensor obviously comp calculations are invalid. Intake integrity after the MAF is crucial for system to operate properly.
Air entering intake system prior to MAF has no negative impact on mixture calculation as long as leak doesn't exceed comp ability to add fuel (to much air not enough capacity of the system to add enough fuel- fuel trim out of spec )

Klaus

iTrader: (1)

Would that cause a hard stall after starting though? I would think that would just cause a rough condition, similar to unplugging the MAF.

romycha1

iTrader: (3)

Well, if I kept the revs up, it would stay on, but once I would try and let the car idle it would die.

1WILLY1

iTrader: (9)

Is your car throwing any engine codes?

They are very easy to check.

Let me know if you would like me to tell you how in case you dont already know.

I am also going through the same troubles with my car right now, for about two weeks now.

Stalling out, called a tow truck, than it started.

Now it has trouble starting sometimes-getting more frequent-and it stalls every once in a while.

I changed the "tps" and nothing, now im looking into changing the ecu.

The funny thing is-----even the lexus dealership cant figure out the problem lol.

This is a bit scary!!!!!

Good luck man and wish me the same lol.

Klaus

iTrader: (1)

The IACV is a VERY easy part to test- you pull it off and there are 6 pins- you ground out the center two pins and apply voltage in a pattern to the outside pins and you'll see the plunger that controls the idle move up and down. If it doesn't respond or is jammed, replace it

EUROJulian

I do not know about his car.

In general toyotas have tendency for rubber ducts to crack almost all the way around the ribs. Car like that will not start or die just right after. It is different than unplugging because there is no malfunction detected, no failsafe.