Need help fixing my "Parking Brake"
08-15-10, 07:51 PM
#16
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An e-brake should never be used as an actual "Emergency Brake". It's only used as a parking brake. People get the misconception that the e-brake will stop a car in a dangerous situation, but that is not the case. The e-brake will promote the lock up of the brakes and this is never a good thing when trying to get a car to stop.
Good point ... well luckly I have a stick and can downshift if I get into trouble ...
08-15-10, 07:56 PM
#17
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Basic hand tools are all you need. If i remember correctly, you'll only need a 12mm and 17mm sockets or wrenches to remove the rear caliper and bracket. Do not take that large nut off with the cotter pin, it's for the hub and does not need to be removed to take the rotor off.
One more thing, many times you'll need some force to get the rotor off. Get yourself piece of wood and hammer that way you won't damage the rotor. Go around the circumference of the rotor to remove it.
One more thing, many times you'll need some force to get the rotor off. Get yourself piece of wood and hammer that way you won't damage the rotor. Go around the circumference of the rotor to remove it.
OK thanx again ... this sounds easier than I thought ... I will look around for some more information and check the service manual again ... then tomorrow I will look at pulling the rotors off ... I will post back if I hav any questions ...
08-15-10, 08:37 PM
#18
You'll just have to give it try on adjusting the cog, I believe going up expands the shoes. Turn the rotor until the access hole is at the bottom, that way you can access the cog. Turn the cog a couple of times and give the rotor a spin; you'll start feeling some tension if you are turning the cog the right direction; if not, go the other way.
You are not going to be able to tell if you need new shoes without taking the rotor off. It's simple, remove the caliper and caliper bracket and you'll have access to remove the rotor.
If you haven't done drum brakes before, it can be a pain. There a few small parts you'll have to keep track up. My major advice to you is do one side at a time, that way you will have reference to an assembled set.
Honestly, I don't think switching to hydraulic or adding a caliper for e-brake is worth the hassle. There's really no performance use of the e-brake under normal conditions to any conversions.
You are not going to be able to tell if you need new shoes without taking the rotor off. It's simple, remove the caliper and caliper bracket and you'll have access to remove the rotor.
If you haven't done drum brakes before, it can be a pain. There a few small parts you'll have to keep track up. My major advice to you is do one side at a time, that way you will have reference to an assembled set.
Honestly, I don't think switching to hydraulic or adding a caliper for e-brake is worth the hassle. There's really no performance use of the e-brake under normal conditions to any conversions.
08-15-10, 08:46 PM
#19
The parking brake cables don't run through the fenders. They should run inside along the subframe area. Your car being low shouldn't have caused any damage to the e-brakes; at least I don't think they would.
The e-brake cable run to the back of the car not the front, they only affect the rear brakes. The cable you're thinking of is the hood latch cable running along the driver side front fender.
The e-brake cable run to the back of the car not the front, they only affect the rear brakes. The cable you're thinking of is the hood latch cable running along the driver side front fender.
08-16-10, 07:41 AM
#20
The parking brake cables don't run through the fenders. They should run inside along the subframe area. Your car being low shouldn't have caused any damage to the e-brakes; at least I don't think they would.
The e-brake cable run to the back of the car not the front, they only affect the rear brakes. The cable you're thinking of is the hood latch cable running along the driver side front fender.
The e-brake cable run to the back of the car not the front, they only affect the rear brakes. The cable you're thinking of is the hood latch cable running along the driver side front fender.
It could've been possible because my car got progressively lower and it was to the point where my actual rim tucked in the front. I hit some really bad potholes last weekend and my e-brake quit working and my fender harness got killed. I wasn't sure how it got messed up, but I want to fix it soon.
08-16-10, 07:45 AM
#21
It could've been possible because my car got progressively lower and it was to the point where my actual rim tucked in the front. I hit some really bad potholes last weekend and my e-brake quit working and my fender harness got killed. I wasn't sure how it got messed up, but I want to fix it soon.
08-16-10, 01:39 PM
#22
In order to see if you need new shoes, you need to take off the rotor. Put a nickel next to your shoe pad. If the nickel is much thicker than your shoe pad. It may be time for replacement.
Shoe lining thickness: minimum 1.0mm
Shoe lining thickness: standard 2.5mm
Thickness of a nickel: 1.95mm
Shoe lining thickness: minimum 1.0mm
Shoe lining thickness: standard 2.5mm
Thickness of a nickel: 1.95mm
08-18-10, 08:38 PM
#23
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** UPDATE **
OK I got a chance to work on the car some today ... I attempted to pull the rotor as described but ran into a major problem with one of the caliper bolts ... I could not loosen it with wd-40 , socket with large driver, socket with driver & hammer, and also tried a open end and box wrench (with and without hammer) ... I feel the harder I try the closer I am to stripping the bolt ... any suggestions on how to get this bold off without stripping the bolt ...
Also I was able to get up under the car and see where the cable make the y-junction split ... I had someone pull on the lever and was able to see moment ... to me this indicates the cable is not spit and is operating correctly ... I tried the adjusment again and was able to get it tighter but it did not lock up the rotor ... So I suspect bad shoes at this point but I need to get that caliper off so I can get the rotor off ...
Please Help ... Thanx ...
OK I got a chance to work on the car some today ... I attempted to pull the rotor as described but ran into a major problem with one of the caliper bolts ... I could not loosen it with wd-40 , socket with large driver, socket with driver & hammer, and also tried a open end and box wrench (with and without hammer) ... I feel the harder I try the closer I am to stripping the bolt ... any suggestions on how to get this bold off without stripping the bolt ...
Also I was able to get up under the car and see where the cable make the y-junction split ... I had someone pull on the lever and was able to see moment ... to me this indicates the cable is not spit and is operating correctly ... I tried the adjusment again and was able to get it tighter but it did not lock up the rotor ... So I suspect bad shoes at this point but I need to get that caliper off so I can get the rotor off ...
Please Help ... Thanx ...
08-22-10, 06:14 PM
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yeah bottom one loosened no problem ... top one I couldn't budge ... looking at bolt from behind rotor ... i used the righty tighty ... lefty loosey ... so I was pushing toward front of vehicle ... going to have to find some way to put force on bolt without rounding the bolt ...
08-25-10, 07:48 PM
#26
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** UPDATE **
Ok ... I got the rotor off today ... I found the shoe had no pad left ... It was metal to metal ... I ordered some new shoes today that should be here in about 1 week ... I will keep you up to date on the progress ... thanx again for all the help ...
Ok ... I got the rotor off today ... I found the shoe had no pad left ... It was metal to metal ... I ordered some new shoes today that should be here in about 1 week ... I will keep you up to date on the progress ... thanx again for all the help ...
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