sicwhip

Hello all ... Love this site and this if my first post ... and "YES" I did search (both e-brake and parking brake) before posting ... I am looking for help fixing my "parking brake" ... It does not work at all (not even a little) I have already tried adjusting the nut beside the brake lever near my center console that did nothing ... I tried following service manual instructions for adjusting the shoes but did not completely understand what it means by turn the adjuster ... Do I turn the little cog wheel with a screwdriver and try and push up on it ... or down ? ... Is there a limit to the adjustment that can be made ? ... and Finally How do I determine if I need new brake shoes without taking the rotor off ? and If I do determine I need new shoes where might I find a DIY for replacing the brake shoes ? ... On a side note looking for more information on switching from brake shoes to using calipers as e-brake but all the information I found simply told me to check some other site has no-one duplicated that information here on CL ... I found a few things that referenced switching to hydraulic but no DIY or even any information on the subject other than check out site xxy.com for more information ...

Thanx for all the great information and thanx in advance for any help you members can provide me ...

sicwhip

P.S. - Not sure if this is the right section for this (should it be in suspension & brakes ?) ... feel free to move as needed ...

Kira X

iTrader: (24)

I'm also having the same issue and couldn't find anything in the search.

SChema

iTrader: (2)

You'll just have to give it try on adjusting the cog, I believe going up expands the shoes. Turn the rotor until the access hole is at the bottom, that way you can access the cog. Turn the cog a couple of times and give the rotor a spin; you'll start feeling some tension if you are turning the cog the right direction; if not, go the other way.

You are not going to be able to tell if you need new shoes without taking the rotor off. It's simple, remove the caliper and caliper bracket and you'll have access to remove the rotor.

If you haven't done drum brakes before, it can be a pain. There a few small parts you'll have to keep track up. My major advice to you is do one side at a time, that way you will have reference to an assembled set.

Honestly, I don't think switching to hydraulic or adding a caliper for e-brake is worth the hassle. There's really no performance use of the e-brake under normal conditions to any conversions.

1JZPWRD

iTrader: (59)

I have to agree but disagree. Those engineered for some reason. I hardly ever use it too, but I do, when I am parked on a uphill or downhill situation. 3Rotor correctly described the way to adjust. Adjust it to where the rotor has tension on it a little. If this still doesnt work, jack the rear of the car, and see if someone undone it form the rear end. They are seperated by two seperate lines back there. You should see these near the front of the rear end or above the drive shaft.

sicwhip

3rotor thanx for the quick reply ...

I did get access to it ... was able to push it both up and down did about 4 complete revolution down and nothing was keeping me from spinning the rotor ... then went back to zero and did 4 revolutions up and still nothing ... so does this seem like I need new shoes ... also I do not have the lever pulled up at all (as per service manual) not sure if that makes a difference ...

I just didn't want to go through the hassle of removing them to find they are still good ... if I find that I absolutely can't adjust them to the point of stopping the rotor from spinning I will break down and do a replacement ... might be a good opportunity for my very first DIY ... If I do DIY I would like some incite on posting pictures so they will be available even years later ... I have seen many DIY on here from over 4 years ago that would be very helpful but the picture links have gone the way of the dinosaur ...

SChema

iTrader: (2)

Even if the shoes are metal to metal contact, there should still be enough adjustment from the cog to contact the rotor. I'm thinking that the cable may have snapped somewhere underneath the car. Easiest way to find out is to pull the rotor off, of course. Once off, have someone pull on the e-brake and you physically look for any movement; if there's e-brake movement, you can rule out the cable being broken.

Let me ask this, has the e-brake ever worked since you've had to car or did you purchase the car in this state?

infiniti24

iTrader: (10)

dude it really is easy jack the car up remove 5 lug nuts remove wheel
remove the entire brake caliper with the 2 bolts holding it on make sure you use a coat hanger or something to hold the caliper up out of the way you dont want it to hang by the brake line

pull your rotor off and there you go you can look at your pads and SEE how worn they are

infiniti24

iTrader: (10)

oh also there no point and very doubtful there is a kit to make your e brake into a caliper set up.

sicwhip

3rotor

I did get the car in this state ... but need it fixed to pass state inspection ... Are you saying that I will get some metal to metal contact even if the cable is snapped ? ... I will try adjusting it some more to see if can get the rotor to lock up ... am I supposed to be doing the adjustment with brake lever up or down ... I assume its down because service manual state to adjust until it locks the rotor then reverse adjustment by about 8 clicks ...

infinit24

Thanx for the input ... I have looked at taking off the rotor ... but be aware I have a limited set of tools to work with ... basic sockets , deep sockets , screwdrivers ... I took off the wheel no problem ... but when looking at removing the rotor it seemed like I would need a very special tool or large socket to remove the nut that is cotter pin locked ... Oh and I have some pliers to ...

I just got the car and am slowing building my set of tools ... I bought the above stuff and just recently picked up a hydrolic lift & jack stands ... any recommendation on other tools might be helpfull ... and I believe I saw a DIY for removing the rotors ... might have been related to painting calipers or something but I will look around for that ...

Thanx again for the help ...

sicwhip

Oh and the only reason I thought I might want to upgrade was due to the lack of any "e-brake" or "parking brake" ... I live in the mountains ... and from what I have read the e-brake is not a brake but a parking brake ... which tells me it is a very weak braking system ... so if I ever need it as an e-brake I will be ***** out of luck ...

SChema

iTrader: (2)

You will not get metal to metal contact if the cable is broken the return springs will compress the shoes to its normal state. Yea, you adjust the e-brake with the lever down.

Basic hand tools are all you need. If i remember correctly, you'll only need a 12mm and 17mm sockets or wrenches to remove the rear caliper and bracket. Do not take that large nut off with the cotter pin, it's for the hub and does not need to be removed to take the rotor off.

One more thing, many times you'll need some force to get the rotor off. Get yourself piece of wood and hammer that way you won't damage the rotor. Go around the circumference of the rotor to remove it.

SChema

iTrader: (2)

An e-brake should never be used as an actual "Emergency Brake". It's only used as a parking brake. People get the misconception that the e-brake will stop a car in a dangerous situation, but that is not the case. The e-brake will promote the lock up of the brakes and this is never a good thing when trying to get a car to stop.

sicwhip

OK thanx 3rotor ... I will attempt a visual inspection first as 1992lexus suggested ... I will then attempt to adjust the other side ... if either these both fail then I will break down and remove the rotors and do a visual while friend moves lever ... I will search again but I don't recall a DIY for replacing the cable ...

Also what do I need to remove the nut holding the rotor on the drive shaft ... is it just a really big socket or some specialty tool ?

By all counts it seems like the cable is busted ... but I will diagnose step by step and eliminate the simple cases first ...

Thanx for all the help ...

SChema

iTrader: (2)

You do not need to remove the nut, that is for the hub, has nothing to do with removing the rotor.