cost of rebuilding the engine?
09-06-10, 02:13 AM
#16
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Cost can vary greatly depending on how much work would need to be done on it. Decking the block, honing the cylinders, milling the head, cleaning up intake and exhaust ports, etc...while adding parts that need to be replaced can add up fairly quickly.
Used motors should be just as good as rebuilt motors in terms of being built. They were originally built by professionals as well. If you're talking about blue-printing a motor, that's a different story; then again a normal rebuild does not include blue-printing.
Used motors should be just as good as rebuilt motors in terms of being built. They were originally built by professionals as well. If you're talking about blue-printing a motor, that's a different story; then again a normal rebuild does not include blue-printing.
09-06-10, 06:04 AM
#17
but how much will it cost for the labour on the swap---
--im sure every engine swap has unforseen issues--
--i doubt u just swap it and turn key and drive--
--ive noticed alot of people talking about these engine swaps like they they were swapping a set of tires--
--im sure an engine swap--even at 500 dollars for the engine---will still come with a total cost similar to that of rebuilding the engine---labour--additional parts--unforseen issues---etc.....
--i have seen multiple threads of people swapping the engine and going through a total nightmare of issues with the engine not running right----hours and hours of labour trying to figure it out---swapping parts out like crazy trying to diagnose etc.....
--even one guy i saw purchased an engine from one of these online used engine dealers and when he took off the valve covers and oil pan it was completely saturated with gunk and oil residue---looked terrible----he was forced to go ahead and put it in anyways
--just sounds like a bit of a gamble if you ask me----although i am sure there have been many swaps that go smoothly that u dont hear about as well.
--unless you know a mechanic or can do alot of the labour yourself---im still thinking rebuild might be the safer choice--even if it does cost u a few extra bucks-----you know exactly what your getting in the end
--just my opinion of course
--im hope i never have to be faced with this choice---
Last edited by 1WILLY1; 09-06-10 at 06:20 AM.
09-06-10, 07:11 AM
#18
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Do you know what all was included in the price for the rebuild? Was it just seals, rings, gaskets, bearings? Or were they replacing pistons and rods too? I enjoy the challenge of learning something new and thats why I pulled the engine in my last car (non SC) and tore open the head, ported it etc, and rebuilt the engine myself with new parts.
09-06-10, 09:03 AM
#19
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1WILLY1, A 2jzge swap into a SC300 is nothing like a 1jz/2jzgte swap, the harness is the same, everything is the same, it's just a process of unbolting and reconnecting everything. It would be labor intentsive, but nothing too complicated.
09-06-10, 10:25 AM
#22
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The term "rebuilt" is way too generic, to the point of being virtually meaningless without specifics. To some people it would mean a no-holds-barred teardown and reassembly including all new parts and exhaustive machining. To others, it could mean they popped the head, maybe replaced a few valve guides, did a quick cylinder honing, then replaced the piston rings and crank bearings and called it a day. Very different long term results (and cost), but both could have called it a "rebuilt" engine.
09-06-10, 11:58 AM
#23
The term "rebuilt" is way too generic, to the point of being virtually meaningless without specifics. To some people it would mean a no-holds-barred teardown and reassembly including all new parts and exhaustive machining. To others, it could mean they popped the head, maybe replaced a few valve guides, did a quick cylinder honing, then replaced the piston rings and crank bearings and called it a day. Very different long term results (and cost), but both could have called it a "rebuilt" engine.
I have a strong feeling it will be a basic change of pistons, gaskets and a few other things and that is it.
Would be nice to hear some details.
Thanks
09-06-10, 03:12 PM
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This is one more thing you should consider. I have much experience with retail auto parts stores and their brands. Auto zone it’s a company that is geared to sell to low income individuals. I’m not picking on AZ or any one that buys parts from them it’s just the truth. Their business model is to sell cheap not quality. With that said, we have the first problem. Making “aftermarket” parts (ie not the manufacture brand of car) takes expensive R&D. For example take a head gasket, install that part and test for fitment, performance, leaking, and longevity. Not to mention performance, and leaking over time. You can see this R&D can cost big bucks. So to make a part cheap they skip the R&D. What really happens in some cases is the aftermarket parts maker takes a true OEM part and tries to copy it for size and shape with cheaper materials. look on the box "made in china" this usually means cheap as hell.
With my experience I have seen (just to name one AZ brand) felpro make a head gasket mirrored, I have seen them make a composite HG where the original was metal, I have seen them make a HG ten times thicker than the original this is a big no no because it modifies the CR and you lose power. It’s like there motto is “get-er-done” and the heck with the right way.
I could go on and on about failed cheap parts from AZ I have come to learn not to trust any of their venders parts. Some might argue that its the installer and I have questioned this as well, even my own work I brought in to question. But when I remove a water pump that leaks around the shaft, valve stems seals that melt, new starters that stop working after a week, brake disks that warp even after a proper professional brake in, I cant blame the installer.
Sorry about the long read but to be clear about it I fix a lot of cars that the user tried to fix with AZ parts. And that part failed because of poor quality.
With my experience I have seen (just to name one AZ brand) felpro make a head gasket mirrored, I have seen them make a composite HG where the original was metal, I have seen them make a HG ten times thicker than the original this is a big no no because it modifies the CR and you lose power. It’s like there motto is “get-er-done” and the heck with the right way.
I could go on and on about failed cheap parts from AZ I have come to learn not to trust any of their venders parts. Some might argue that its the installer and I have questioned this as well, even my own work I brought in to question. But when I remove a water pump that leaks around the shaft, valve stems seals that melt, new starters that stop working after a week, brake disks that warp even after a proper professional brake in, I cant blame the installer.
Sorry about the long read but to be clear about it I fix a lot of cars that the user tried to fix with AZ parts. And that part failed because of poor quality.
09-06-10, 04:02 PM
#28
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I know about the cheap build quality of AZ parts, I work there. I think after reading all this, I'll just rebuild the block at a friends house if it fails. My main corn concern was internals. piston, rockers, valves, shafts..etc. I just want to have a stable engine, getting stranded in the middle of nowhere is not fun.
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