davids12

old thread i know, and some info may be different on a lexus...

heres a writeup i did awhile ago on hydraulic e brakes for my s12



PROS OF HYDRO BRAKE

no stretching cables,
solution to those who cant use a e brake
longer life
consistent lock

CONS OF HYDRO E BRAKE

they cost money
you cant press the brake pedal while pulling the lever
you cant modulate lock



heres a quick writeup

tools needed.

FLARE WRENCH 10 MILL


use that wrench, and that type of wrench ONLY for removing those old brake lines. get a pair of good vice grips if you strip them out



i purchased a CNC series 412 staging brake. you have to call to order, shipped to me. [va] it was around 180 American dollars
http://www.cncbrakes.com/hsb.asp?grp...412&subseries=


why staging brake?
because i want a IN LINE setup, which means were using my stock rear calipers to lock my 15 inch steelies up mid drift

if your installing separate calipers (probally better, but cost more/more fabrication) youd need a hand brake, which cnc sells also. which just has 1 exiting port from the cylinder



heres the brake


its got 2 ports, comes with SAE fittings that have PIPE thread on them, do NOT try to hook up a flared brake line to the cylinder, itself, use the pipe thread adapters it comes with.

i dunno if you can buy metric ones, mine was SAE, 3/8th's by -24 3/16th brake line (which is our stock brake line size)

get 2 4 foot sections or so of brake line, and flare 2 SAE fittings onto the fitting on the cylinder, and make sure the line you buy has metric, (probally 1.0 mm) so the opposite end will go into the master

you can rent a double flare tool at your local autozone for free. just pay collateral and you get your money back afterwards.
if your a ***** and you do not want to learn how to flare brake lines, try to source a adapter.

results should look like this once its all done.



you will need a union fitting, i believe 1.0mm 3/16th line


and 2 4 foot sections of 3/16ths line, longer if you want, w/e you can always cut them to your desired length. INVERTED FLARE NOT BUBBLE FLARE


what your going to do, is disconnect the 3rd, or last brake line that goes into the master, add the union fitting, then place a line from the fitting, INTO the back of the hydro brake,

then run the FRONT (should be labeled) right back up into the master cylinder

picture for reference




heres how it looks in real life. i removed my dash because i have it held in by 2 zip ties. you can try to go around it



i bolted mine down on the trans tunnel. you can do w/e you want


bleed your brakes good

put everything back, and BAM go rip that **** down the freeway it 75 mph. its awesome

poorsupra

iTrader: (11)

ok so davids12, i can see that this install was not on an sc300 its your s12, where my question lays is on the sc300 set up. the sc brake master only has 2 outlets, a front and rear. so would this diagram work? alsowhat is the exact difference between a CNC staging brake that has 2 ports(in and out) VS. a hydraulic e-brake that also has 2 ports(in and out). does the staging brake have a one way check valve or is there no real difference?

MumRah

bro im drifting in a dominican republic series this year and i started out with a welded dif. suspensions and trailer full of tires lol like touge said grab a cone do doughnuts then after u didem both sides add another one and do 8`s dnt wrry bout angle jus consistancy and keeping the lines clean sooner then you think you b able to throw your car more aggresively around the hit some turns in a safe place get used to the car before anything remember all rwd cars should b able to drift with minor adjustments

SCDanny

iTrader: (5)

On the SC, the that is closest to the front of the car is for the rears. I ran a line straight out of that port, into the car to the feed on my CNC, then the return line goes right back down the same path and then meets back up with the stock line.

poorsupra

iTrader: (11)

so here lies my next question. could this be ran inline just like the cnc staging brake? the master cyl seems to have the same design.
godspeed option- http://zilvia.net/f/brakes/420516-go...-type-2-a.html

another thought, how about a EMPI single handle turning brake? nearly half the price of a CNC unit. i was just thinking about hooking up one of the MC, or the jamar unit.
http://www.dansperformanceparts.com/...buggy_turn.htm

air6657

just coilover and good LSD , i think you can go out and have fun , yes i said have fun first then ask yourself that you really like doing it becuz it's not cheap at all. Just my 2 cent

marcojdm

Also some things no one mentioned with getting tires. Put whatever you want on the rear as long as they're the same matching brand and size (will burn the diff out and cause the car to pull to one side if mixmatched, on welded atleast idk about 2 ways). Also don't skimp out on good quality front tires. That's what really guides the car in drift. If you have crap fronts it'll cause your car to under steer, which can be a cause of an accident.

Also whenever you get coils don't try and be a cool guy and slam the car without other suspension upgrades. A subtle drop will make it look/handle better but will allow the suspension geometry to work how it's supposed too.

Don't forget the most important step is to have fun!!! Good luck!