On no!!! My wheel fell of while driving
11-08-10, 06:39 PM
#46
sorry for hijack
I have been trying to figure out why my rear rotors won't come off even after following the steps required and running out of bigger hammers and it dawned on me that somehow my rotor fused to the hub
compare mine to the pic above
any ideas?
I have been trying to figure out why my rear rotors won't come off even after following the steps required and running out of bigger hammers and it dawned on me that somehow my rotor fused to the hub
compare mine to the pic above
any ideas?
11-08-10, 08:21 PM
#49
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Lol
^^^lmao yeah I did have a heart attack and was shaking. Imagine going 45mph and hear a thump and see your wheel flying past you like WTF. Its kinda funny now but if it was a high way I prob would be in the hospital right now. I had to run 10 blocks to get my wheel and it was 50 degreez lol....
WORD TO THE WISE IF YOU HAVE AFTER MARKET WHEELS..GET HUBCENTRIC RINGS FOR YOUR RIMS. I JUST REALIZED ALL THE WEIGHT WAS BEING HELD UP BY THE LUG NUTS NOT THE HUB AS YOU CAN SEE THE RUST RING. I GOT MINES FOR ALL 4 WHEELS FOR $50 SHIPPED!
. Its kinda funny now but if it was a high way I prob would be in the hospital right now. I had to run 10 blocks to get my wheel and it was 50 degreez lol....WORD TO THE WISE IF YOU HAVE AFTER MARKET WHEELS..GET HUBCENTRIC RINGS FOR YOUR RIMS. I JUST REALIZED ALL THE WEIGHT WAS BEING HELD UP BY THE LUG NUTS NOT THE HUB AS YOU CAN SEE THE RUST RING. I GOT MINES FOR ALL 4 WHEELS FOR $50 SHIPPED!
11-09-10, 04:40 PM
#51
There is a trick to these that is VERY useful on these and most of the toyota line. Look on the interior line of holes on the brake hub. Two of those holes are threaded (i think 10x1.25 or 10x1.0 thread, don't quote me on that though). If you put thread a bolt into there and start cranking away it will start moving the brake rotor away from the hub. A little rust penetrant on the hub and the threads helps too. If that doesn't work you might need to whip out some heat and heat that sucker up, but that's a last resort.
11-09-10, 08:41 PM
#53
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What is the Diameter of our Hubs so I know which ones to get? Is it 60.10? I've got a set of Motegi Touges that I'm almost 100% sure don't have them (judging by the ghost/corrosion outline I have sitting on my rotor in my living room as pictured above).
11-09-10, 08:48 PM
#54
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11-09-10, 10:03 PM
#55
There is a trick to these that is VERY useful on these and most of the toyota line. Look on the interior line of holes on the brake hub. Two of those holes are threaded (i think 10x1.25 or 10x1.0 thread, don't quote me on that though). If you put thread a bolt into there and start cranking away it will start moving the brake rotor away from the hub. A little rust penetrant on the hub and the threads helps too. If that doesn't work you might need to whip out some heat and heat that sucker up, but that's a last resort.
) I will give them another try in the morning.
11-11-10, 09:40 AM
#56
Intermediate
my guess is either improper torquing...or the wheel wasn't sitting on the hub properly. All OEM wheels are designed to rest on the wheel hub. Lug nuts keep the wheel on the hub. If you have an after market wheel with a larger hub than the one on your car then the stress increases on the wheel studs and if it lasts too long then they'll snap and you'll have a runaway wheel. My suggestion: get a set of hub-centric spacer rings so the wheels can sit properly on the wheel hub.
http://www.justforwheels.com/hub-centric-rings.jsp
http://www.justforwheels.com/hub-centric-rings.jsp
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