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Car is under the knife right now. Got new tires, replaced hardware on my rear wheels, polished and ceramic coated all surfaces, and freshly sealed them back together. Pulling bumpers off for repair/paint while I replace all arms. I foreshadow the height of the car to change when I replace all arms, so I'll have to readjust all four corners. Will also have to get creative with how I tighten the control arm bolts under load.
Cheers
Do what Rudy said and jack up each corner and torque it down. Or if you have access to car show stands the bolt to the hubs you can use those. Having the wheels on the car will limit your ability to use a torque wrench especially if you're on the ground. Even on a 4 post lift/alignment rack it can be hard to access some bolts.
How do you like the fusso? I have a bunch of soft99 detailing products I was given to sample, but I never used them.
Although it's not the longest life product out there, I'm in love with Fusso. It has amazing hydrophobic properties and gives the paint that warm look. Very easy to apply and doesn't take much. The best part is the price! I mostly use it as a topper or a way of maintaining the protection.
Although it's not the longest life product out there, I'm in love with Fusso. It has amazing hydrophobic properties and gives the paint that warm look. Very easy to apply and doesn't take much. The best part is the price! I mostly use it as a topper or a way of maintaining the protection.
I used it once on my sister's corolla since all my cars are ceramic coated. It didn't live up to the hype for me, but maybe her car wasn't the best option for testing.
Originally Posted by jadu
Are you replacing the screen back lighting? Mount the LED directly to the board and ditch the base/risers.
Just replaced the steering rack bushing with delring (sp?) polys. While under there confirmed that the water pump is leaking. Prior owner had the timing belt done on schedule but his independent mechanic didn't replace the water pump (or the cam seals)- ughh.
Getting ready to confirm whether the water pump can be replaced without removing the timing belt (SC300).
Just replaced the steering rack bushing with delring (sp?) polys. While under there confirmed that the water pump is leaking. Prior owner had the timing belt done on schedule but his independent mechanic didn't replace the water pump (or the cam seals)- ughh.
Getting ready to confirm whether the water pump can be replaced without removing the timing belt (SC300).
No it cannot. There are 4 bolts on the front of the engine that need to be removed in order to remove/replace the water pump.
I tried to remove my crank pulley but I don’t have a crank pulley tool. I’ll have to see if one of my friends at the dealership will loan me one or come over and do it for me.
I tried to remove my crank pulley but I don’t have a crank pulley tool. I’ll have to see if one of my friends at the dealership will loan me one or come over and do it for me.
. It details how to lock your crank using the drive belt. I'll be trying this method when I replace my water pump as soon as the weather warms up a bit.
Just replace my front emblem from Gold to Silver. Yesterday installed trunk struts. Last 30 days: New Battery, New Coils. Oil/Filter change. Add coolant
Where I live, winter is too harsh to drive these cars anyway. My front bumper was heavily chipped up during an unexpected ice storm driving home from Memphis, TN in early 2019. The rear bumper had a custom cutout delete which was torn out a few months back by some highway debris. Bad luck, yeah? The car will be down for a while anyway, and it helps to have the bumpers removed as it takes up less length in the garage while on jackstands. My body guy will enjoy taking his time with the loose deadline. This project has been the most extensive for me so far.
Rear:
Subframe dropped and stripped for blasting, zinc primer, powder coat
OEM Toyota RUCA
OEM Toyota End Links (TT sway bars)
Megan RLCA
Megan Toe arms
SuperPro polyurethane traction bushings
SuperPro polyurethane diff ears/mounting bushings
SuperPro knuckle bushings
OEM Toyota Supra TT Brake Dust Covers
OEM Toyota hubs
Koyo Bearings
Rear knuckles getting blasted, zinc primered and coated before pressing new bearings in
Front:
StrongFlex subframe bushings
OEM Toyota FLCA
OEM Toyota Outer/Inner Tie Rods
Rock Auto FUCA
Daizen Steering Rack bushings
OEM Toyota Supra TT Brake Dust Covers
Koyo bearings
Knuckles getting blasted/zinc plated/coated before pressing new bearings in
All hardware being restored to my best ability:
1. Soak in Apple Cider Vinegar for one week
2. Sit in tumbler with walnut shells for 24 hours
3. Soak in hydrochloric acid for one minute
4. Soak in electrolyte solution alongside zinc bars with electric charge approx 40 min to zinc plate
Before putting everything back in the car, I am going to attempt degreasing and steam cleaning the undercarriage, applying bolt restoration and zinc plating to everything in batches as I go.
This is as far as I am right now as parts are getting coated, painted, and more parts are being shipped from Japan. So far, the hardest part has been dealing with the rear hubs and their dust covers. I've had to cut them off with a cutting wheel and air chisel.
Changed both cam sensors, distributor caps and rotors, and both ignition coils. It was -3 last week so I also had to replace the battery.
Had to change the cam sensors because the wiring was sliced by the serpentine belt after a timing job. Gave me a Code 13. Now the CEL gone and super happy with it running smoothly.
Although the screws in the old ignition housing was stripped in so I had to make a makeshift harness with zipties . Will be putting the regular harness back.
Gonna focus on the interior and sound system the temporary ziptie harness.
Where I live, winter is too harsh to drive these cars anyway. My front bumper was heavily chipped up during an unexpected ice storm driving home from Memphis, TN in early 2019. The rear bumper had a custom cutout delete which was torn out a few months back by some highway debris. Bad luck, yeah? The car will be down for a while anyway, and it helps to have the bumpers removed as it takes up less length in the garage while on jackstands. My body guy will enjoy taking his time with the loose deadline. This project has been the most extensive for me so far.
Rear:
Subframe dropped and stripped for blasting, zinc primer, powder coat
OEM Toyota RUCA
OEM Toyota End Links (TT sway bars)
Megan RLCA
Megan Toe arms
SuperPro polyurethane traction bushings
SuperPro polyurethane diff ears/mounting bushings
SuperPro knuckle bushings
OEM Toyota Supra TT Brake Dust Covers
OEM Toyota hubs
Koyo Bearings
Rear knuckles getting blasted, zinc primered and coated before pressing new bearings in
Front:
StrongFlex subframe bushings
OEM Toyota FLCA
OEM Toyota Outer/Inner Tie Rods
Rock Auto FUCA
Daizen Steering Rack bushings
OEM Toyota Supra TT Brake Dust Covers
Koyo bearings
Knuckles getting blasted/zinc plated/coated before pressing new bearings in
All hardware being restored to my best ability:
1. Soak in Apple Cider Vinegar for one week
2. Sit in tumbler with walnut shells for 24 hours
3. Soak in hydrochloric acid for one minute
4. Soak in electrolyte solution alongside zinc bars with electric charge approx 40 min to zinc plate
Before putting everything back in the car, I am going to attempt degreasing and steam cleaning the undercarriage, applying bolt restoration and zinc plating to everything in batches as I go.
I wish you would make a dedicated build thread to document all of this in 1 place.
01-28-20, 12:19 PM
. Will be putting the regular harness back.
