Tips for SC/TSX Retrofit
11-21-10, 09:18 PM
#1
Tips for SC/TSX Retrofit
This weekend I decided to do the retrofit. This is the first I have done, so I spent weeks scouring the forum for an in-depth DIY. Unfortunately, I only have bits and pieces from here and there so I want to fill this thread with what I haven't been able to find. I thought I knew a fair bit about the subject, but when it came to doing it, I was a complete newbie. This thread is aimed at that very audience.
Today I only had time to do it for the driver's side, but I will update more when I do the passenger's side next week and get photos at the same time.
For those more knowledgeable, please feel free to correct me, or add more information.
Why do a TSX retrofit into the SC? Even though it is my first time doing it, I would say that this is likely the easiest and safest retrofit to do. There is VERY minimal modification. The only thing you'll be modifying is the TSX projector, so you can revert back to factory just in case.
What supplies do I need? 2 TSX projectors, preferably from 2004-2005 which have the clear lenses for the sharpest cutoff. The 2006+ lenses are called fresnel, or ribbed which do not yield as sharp of a cutoff.
2 ballasts (I always thought you only needed one)
2 D2S bulbs. The ballasts should come with the 'pigtail' connector.
2 retrofit brackets. I highly recommend buying these as making them is difficult for the newbie, in my opinion. I got mine from LuxuryMods.
Other supplies: 2 relays, 2 inline fuse holders, soldering supplies, 6 bolts, 12 nuts. *I will get exact sizes next week*
Removing headlight: There's several tutorials for this so I give essentials only. There are 3 10mm fasteners. A bolt on top, and 2 nuts that can only be reached through the fender lining.
Separating headlight: Once headlight is removed, there are several small screws on the black part that should be removed first. Also remove the clips at this time.
Make sure you use the oven to separate since it is much much easier than using a heat gun. From some other thread, it recommended 250 degrees for 8 minutes max. Use a wide flat blade screwdriver or putty knife to pry apart the lens and the housing.
Removing SC projector: Loosen the gold pivot screw at the bottom a bit. Then loosen the two adjustment screws which are reverse thread. Do not undo one completely or the others will be harder to loosen.
For these next 2 parts, here is a useful thread for reference: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/lig...-pictures.html
Modifying: Make sure you remove the bulb if it is in the projector, and shave off one of the "tabs' on the TSX projector. Counter intuitively, the shield is always on the bottom. For the driver's side, looking at the back of the headlight, you want to shave the top right tab. Top left for the passenger's.
Note: This is also a good time to do the color mod if you want. See this thread: http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/show...REHOSTED-AGAIN!!)
Fitting Part I: Take the plastic pieces from the SC projector and put them into the retrofit bracket. Note: the bracket fits behind the projector. Also, it does not sit right behind the tabs, in fact it must be spaced away about an inch. The bolt goes through the front of the projector, and through the bracket. Use 2 nuts in front and behind the bracket to hold it there in place. You want the new TSX projector to be in the same location that the SC projector used to be.
Fitting Part II: Fasten the gold pivot screw onto the headlight housing first. Tighten the other adjustment screws bit by bit to keep it straight.
In the next part, use this thread as a reference: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/lig...o-wire-it.html
Wiring Part I: You will want to wire the harness to the relay and fuse on a bench, and then splice the 'pigtail' connector onto the SC headlight connector afterward. Follow the images in the wiring thread. I just spliced the pigtail connector onto the relay, and then spliced it into the 9006 connector. Power also goes into the relay through a inline fuse holder, and then draws power directly from the battery.
Wiring Part II: I placed all the wiring and ballasts in the front air dam right behind the bumper. I placed pieces of velcro on the ballasts and stuck them to the black plastic piece. so they don't flop around.
Testing: Do not put the headlight lens back on yet. Put the bulb in, and place the headlight into the car. Make sure everything is connected, turn it on and wait a few seconds for it to stabilize. This is also a good time to align your headlights.
Finishing: Take the bulb out and put the pieces back in the oven and put it back together. Install the headlight back in the car, make all the connections and you should be ready to go. Check the alignment of the headlights as well.
Some photos:
This is the kind of cutoff line I have with the fresnel lens on the projector. Also my headlight lenses are not delined.
Today I only had time to do it for the driver's side, but I will update more when I do the passenger's side next week and get photos at the same time.
For those more knowledgeable, please feel free to correct me, or add more information.
Why do a TSX retrofit into the SC? Even though it is my first time doing it, I would say that this is likely the easiest and safest retrofit to do. There is VERY minimal modification. The only thing you'll be modifying is the TSX projector, so you can revert back to factory just in case.
What supplies do I need? 2 TSX projectors, preferably from 2004-2005 which have the clear lenses for the sharpest cutoff. The 2006+ lenses are called fresnel, or ribbed which do not yield as sharp of a cutoff.
2 ballasts (I always thought you only needed one)
2 D2S bulbs. The ballasts should come with the 'pigtail' connector.
2 retrofit brackets. I highly recommend buying these as making them is difficult for the newbie, in my opinion. I got mine from LuxuryMods.
Other supplies: 2 relays, 2 inline fuse holders, soldering supplies, 6 bolts, 12 nuts. *I will get exact sizes next week*
Removing headlight: There's several tutorials for this so I give essentials only. There are 3 10mm fasteners. A bolt on top, and 2 nuts that can only be reached through the fender lining.
Separating headlight: Once headlight is removed, there are several small screws on the black part that should be removed first. Also remove the clips at this time.
Make sure you use the oven to separate since it is much much easier than using a heat gun. From some other thread, it recommended 250 degrees for 8 minutes max. Use a wide flat blade screwdriver or putty knife to pry apart the lens and the housing.
Removing SC projector: Loosen the gold pivot screw at the bottom a bit. Then loosen the two adjustment screws which are reverse thread. Do not undo one completely or the others will be harder to loosen.
For these next 2 parts, here is a useful thread for reference: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/lig...-pictures.html
Modifying: Make sure you remove the bulb if it is in the projector, and shave off one of the "tabs' on the TSX projector. Counter intuitively, the shield is always on the bottom. For the driver's side, looking at the back of the headlight, you want to shave the top right tab. Top left for the passenger's.
Note: This is also a good time to do the color mod if you want. See this thread: http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/show...REHOSTED-AGAIN!!)
Fitting Part I: Take the plastic pieces from the SC projector and put them into the retrofit bracket. Note: the bracket fits behind the projector. Also, it does not sit right behind the tabs, in fact it must be spaced away about an inch. The bolt goes through the front of the projector, and through the bracket. Use 2 nuts in front and behind the bracket to hold it there in place. You want the new TSX projector to be in the same location that the SC projector used to be.
Fitting Part II: Fasten the gold pivot screw onto the headlight housing first. Tighten the other adjustment screws bit by bit to keep it straight.
In the next part, use this thread as a reference: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/lig...o-wire-it.html
Wiring Part I: You will want to wire the harness to the relay and fuse on a bench, and then splice the 'pigtail' connector onto the SC headlight connector afterward. Follow the images in the wiring thread. I just spliced the pigtail connector onto the relay, and then spliced it into the 9006 connector. Power also goes into the relay through a inline fuse holder, and then draws power directly from the battery.
Wiring Part II: I placed all the wiring and ballasts in the front air dam right behind the bumper. I placed pieces of velcro on the ballasts and stuck them to the black plastic piece. so they don't flop around.
Testing: Do not put the headlight lens back on yet. Put the bulb in, and place the headlight into the car. Make sure everything is connected, turn it on and wait a few seconds for it to stabilize. This is also a good time to align your headlights.
Finishing: Take the bulb out and put the pieces back in the oven and put it back together. Install the headlight back in the car, make all the connections and you should be ready to go. Check the alignment of the headlights as well.
Some photos:
This is the kind of cutoff line I have with the fresnel lens on the projector. Also my headlight lenses are not delined.
Last edited by greyBLITZ; 11-28-10 at 01:05 PM.
11-22-10, 05:26 PM
#6
Not to worry, pics coming next week when I do the passenger side!
It is much brighter. From what I know, light output for halogens is about 1000 lumens, whereas HIDs give off about 3400.
Stay tuned!
Stay tuned!
Last edited by greyBLITZ; 12-03-10 at 09:35 AM.
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11-28-10, 12:59 PM
#9
@97-SC300: They worked out great! Thanks!
I just updated with some photos of the most crucial steps and added some more info. Hope you guys will find it useful!
I also have question for the experts. There is now a large gap between the back of the projector and the black housing, so there's no way I can completely seal the headlight. Is that the purpose of having a shroud?
But then the projector is not centered within the hole in the chrome piece, so would a shroud still work?
I just updated with some photos of the most crucial steps and added some more info. Hope you guys will find it useful!
I also have question for the experts. There is now a large gap between the back of the projector and the black housing, so there's no way I can completely seal the headlight. Is that the purpose of having a shroud?
But then the projector is not centered within the hole in the chrome piece, so would a shroud still work?
12-03-10, 01:35 AM
#10
Driver School Candidate
I'm guessing the wiring is only necessary for the stock tsx ballasts? Aftermarket PNP kits should just slot right in as long as its a 9006 connector with DS2 bulb?
12-03-10, 05:16 AM
#11
Pole Position
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03-28-11, 11:50 AM
#12
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Did you use oem ballast?
Did you use 85122+ bulbs?
It looks bright-!
I am doing my retro with tsx clear lens with denso ballasts with philips 85122+ bulbs. Also did partial deline on my headlights-
Steve
Did you use 85122+ bulbs?
It looks bright-!
I am doing my retro with tsx clear lens with denso ballasts with philips 85122+ bulbs. Also did partial deline on my headlights-
Steve
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