1uzfe4147

Delete ************** moved reply to the front

FireCode

iTrader: (1)

Klaus is right. The NGK Iridiums I just put in did not require any gap work. I put them in and tightened them down.

1uzfe4147

Well i decided since its far 2 dark out 2 f with anything like the ecu. I got some fuel ignition clear and filled the tank up, drove it too see if that would fix the issue. And as it seemed to be helping, when i went to accerate faster than normal the dash suddenly lit up bright like it was brand new, 1 mile from home so i just drove there, turned it off. Other then the random Dash light up nothing else was noticable. Went to start back up and the only noticable power output was the little light that displays the door open and the beeping noise when i put the key in. Put the key in, no lights on the dash no turn over. I have been having issues with the electrical, and now i am just completely stumped because i doubt the codes would display on the ecu now because of the short on the electrical. Brand spankin new battery to so it not that. I was so excited to, because it seemed like it was running like normal. AHHHGGGGG... So something from the battery that outputs power has been blown or maybe a power surge fried something? Any thoughts?

ch1ck3n

I hate dealing with electrical problems. Just curious, are the neg and pos battery cable connectors clean?

1uzfe4147

Yea i hear ya.... And yes they are wire brushed clean. thanks

FireCode

iTrader: (1)

So you have no engine turn over and no lights on the dash, other than your open door symbol? I guess start with the semi easy stuff, first being check your power and your grounds throughout the engine bay.

xxtoobsxx

iTrader: (4)

Ok...the 1uz is a non interferance motor so the valves and pistons wont collide. Check timing again. Some times its easy to jump 1-3 teeth. also check the dist rotors, sometimes those get put in 180 out too or bolted too tight and they break the lil metal part that gets the signal. Again test the coils...If your car is lowered then check the wires i the driver fender well, they may have been eaten by the tire. GL...its a pain in the ****

1uzfe4147

Yep grounds/fuses is what i was goig to start with. Though however when i said i as 1 mile from home i was refering to a family members... so the car is a not here at my house. Adds to the issue. I will get back when i have done everything i thik could have been wrong. thanks again

1uzfe4147

Alright so i got myself over there, turns out the INJ fuse under the hood was fried and slightly melted. Couldnt get under 2 check the grounds, no jack ( i dont have one ). I went in the car @ the rear seat quater panels to find the ECU but i only found the fuel injector brain on one side and some door controler on the other. :\ But I will replace the fuse and get a jack over t here too see if i go a ground with bad connection. Anyone know where i can find where all t he grounds are? I only kno where one is.

1uzfe4147

SWEET! So i replaced the fuse and she started up. Figured out that it was hesitaiting because my throttle body tension was extreamly lose. And now the only issue i am having is some electrical. I am going to double check all my fuses in the engine bay and inside then tomorrow i am going to get down with the ecu, see if i can get codes. Thanks for all the help.

1uzfe4147

Okay so i replaced my blinker fuse cause it was blown, then i pu a 10amp ( needs a 7.5 ) tht blew... so i tryed a 15 and that blew, then a 20! So knowing that my 7.5 blinkr fuse blew with a 20amp fuse and my under the hood INJ (30amp)fue blew and was half melted its probably a good idea to asume i have a short somewhere. o anyone know whre i might have a short knowing that? Atleast i think i know whats wrong now.

And to add to this i had recently replacedmy OEM tail with aftermarket tails.

sc4lover

wheres the throttle body ten and howu fix