Identifying a GTE BLOCK
#1
Identifying a GTE BLOCK
Ok so I got a rust-free '92 SC300 for dirt cheep a few months back. Previous owner said that the owner before him had threw in a JDM GTE block, but put the GE heads back on (I guess he wanted to run the full GTE package but ran out of $$$). Done a ton of research and have found varying opinions in regards to the differences between the two blocks (GE and GTE). Most everything i've found says the only differences (in the BLOCK) is the oil-spray bars. Thoughts? I'd like to know for sure what im dealing with before I start my Turbo project.
And yea, the serial/vin number was Grinded off the block (probably stolen) so that identification route is out of the question.
And yea, the serial/vin number was Grinded off the block (probably stolen) so that identification route is out of the question.
#4
you can start your turbo project either way, the ge block will hold up to boost levels similarly to the gte if the compression was lowered.
the real question here, is what headgasket did he use. if he didn't use a TT headgasket you will be taking the head back off most likely unless you are looking for a high compression setup.
the real question here, is what headgasket did he use. if he didn't use a TT headgasket you will be taking the head back off most likely unless you are looking for a high compression setup.
#5
Upper oil pan passenger side (aluminum color) between block and black lower pan. There is a bump out. Should have a half inch round hole with 2 bolt holes next to it to be a gte. If ge it will have the stamp marks but no hole. The ge BLOCK will hold slot of boost like a gte. The gte PISTONS and RODS will be the money maker. Gte has better oil squirters but dosent really matter.
#7
kickass
Now the question as to if the pistons/rods are GTE or GE. I would tend to think they are GTE, I mean who just buys the block? (especially if it's "hot"). Say I tear it down, is there anyway I could visually distinguish the rods/pistons? Also the previous owner said something about the heads being resurfaced along with new gaskets. Any way I could visually identify aftermarket low-compression gaskets from the stock GE gaskets? (without taking the head off)
thnx guys
Last edited by acklac7; 12-20-10 at 06:01 PM.
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#10
Although it's not conclusive, you could always do a compression test and see if all your cylinders are proportionately lower; implying the thicker head gasket and/or TT pistons. It would be unlikely that all 6 cylinders would be uniformly lower if it were just due to normal engine wear that occurs over time.
$.02
$.02
#11
the GTE pistons are more dished than the ge pistons are, so yes if you pulled the head off you would be able to tell. If you have the gte block your compression is slightly lowered even with a ge gasket but not much, if it has a gte gasket you will be at gte compression. The rods and pistons in the GE are made of the same metal as the GTE, i wouldn't be worried about having GE rods or pistons.
I think compression test here is the easy way out. if the numbers are uniformly low, then you are good to go. if they are almost as high as the GE, you can still boost it but you need better engine management with limited boost, or meth injection, or install a TT headgasket.
I think compression test here is the easy way out. if the numbers are uniformly low, then you are good to go. if they are almost as high as the GE, you can still boost it but you need better engine management with limited boost, or meth injection, or install a TT headgasket.
#12
^^ Ali, IIRC, the top compression numbers for a GTE are 160lbs. with normal numbers around 150. For the GE, it's more like 200 tops, with normal numbers around 190. But I thought the majority of the drop between GTE and GE was MOSTLY due to the pistons, and THEN the HG, but to a lesser degree. Is that not true?
#14
Now the question as to if the pistons/rods are GTE or GE. I would tend to think they are GTE, I mean who just buys the block? (especially if it's "hot"). Say I tear it down, is there anyway I could visually distinguish the rods/pistons? Also the previous owner said something about the heads being resurfaced along with new gaskets. Any way I could visually identify aftermarket low-compression gaskets from the stock GE gaskets? (without taking the head off)
thnx guys
sorry bud, thats the coolant drain plug.. not an oil feed
from the coolant drain plug look about one inch forward on the block and about 2 inchs down, there should be either an oil feed plug or just a "stamp" on the block where the oil feed should be.
heres my 1jz showing the coolant drain and oil feed
look for the front oil feed, its easier to identify
Last edited by 93MSB; 12-21-10 at 10:54 AM.
#15
Failboat
No GTE for me . On the brightside it does look like the engine has been rebuilt as there are numerous chalk "signatures" on the block. Looks like it's NA-T time.
sorry bud, thats the coolant drain plug.. not an oil feed
from the coolant drain plug look about one inch forward on the block and about 2 inchs down, there should be either an oil feed plug or just a "stamp" on the block where the oil feed should be.
heres my 1jz showing the coolant drain and oil feed
look for the front oil feed, its easier to identify
from the coolant drain plug look about one inch forward on the block and about 2 inchs down, there should be either an oil feed plug or just a "stamp" on the block where the oil feed should be.
heres my 1jz showing the coolant drain and oil feed
look for the front oil feed, its easier to identify