boostinsc

I need to detail my car soon. And am looking for any tips/suggestions also on what products to use etc.... I heard that bfwd is really good. Needs to wash,wax and sealant.

Kira X

iTrader: (24)

Those are excellent suggestions! I've heard very good things about Blackfire and the Collinite wax. They definitely an excellent combo according to the detailing board.

Starplaya

Thanks for all of the advice guys. I took everything into consideration and did some more research, and I decided the route i'm taking. I'm definitely not getting it "professionally" detailed because i'm more than 100% sure that I would be charged a ridiculous amount of money for labor simply because car detailing is something the average consumer knows nothing about because they don't take the time to learn how to do it themselves, giving detail shops the leverage to charge too much. That and I want to learn how to detail a car myself because it can prove invaluable over time... Then again, it's all a matter of opinion and perspective, everybody has their own 2cents.

These are the products I've decided to use. Please do not bash me simply because I am not doing what you would do, I did my research and am making a decision based on 1. Quality 2. Money 3. Time

I decided to go with this buffer. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000M5ZXDM/...3080946&sr=8-6
Simply because it got remarkable reviews and I realize a lot of you recommend the porter, but this one is cheaper and has proven to get the job done.

I'm going to use 3m Rubbing Compound, Optimum no rinse wash (This product seems amazing and it is priced really well. Do you guys know if they sell it at wal-mart?), and for my sealant/wax I've decided to go with Nu-Finish ( I know a lot of you would discourage me from using this, but it has gotten really good reviews and i'll try it out once, if I don't like it i'll move on to something else. There is no way in hell it lasts a year though. I think I saw this at walmart today, but can't remember for sure. Any of you seen it there before?)

I've yet to decide on what buffing pads I should use, can you guys recommend some that aren't too pricey and would work with the buffer i'm getting?

One HoT

iTrader: (5)

i would seriously reconsider going to the professional route. if you never done detailing before, it can be very tricky and you may potentially damage your paint which may costs thousands over a measly 200 dollars in cost savings. if they are true professionals with FULL on swirl removal service then 200+ is more than well worth it.

even with a porter cable there is a chance you may introduce new swirls into your paint.

DIY idea seems ideal but the learning curve may take over several months to years. leave it to the pros!

here is what i found incorrect about your DIY approach:

do not use rubbing compound as your only step polish. you must go with the finest polish out there first then work your way up from there. rubbing compound is the MOST abrasive to your paint, you only use it after extensive repaints. This WILL INDEFINITELY leave fine swirls into your paint.

I would recommend optimum polish since it is dummy proof for first timers

Also porter cable is best for newbie jobs, when polish with a porter cable with the finest polish, and with the proper procedure, it will leave a swirlless finish. this is also if you use the proper pad and polish combo.

the buffer you chose comes with a wool pad also most abrasive, you'll need the least aggressive pad to start out. most importantly, it seems like its a rotary typer buffer; rotary buffers are not only again, the most aggressive on the paint, but also creates the MOST heat, because of the heat, there is a increase risk in paint burn if used incorrectly. again reconsider PC.

nu finish seems like a ok sealant with some abrasives, not sure if you can layer this product though. for otc sealants i would rather much recommend NXT 2.0. sealant application can be tricky, a common misconception with LSP is the use as much product as possible. this is really untrue, and will leaving a hazy finish at the end. The trick is to use as LEAST amount of product as possible for the maximum amount of shine without hazing.

prepping is KEY!! do not skimp out on claying correctly!!

flux702

another site with good info and guides is http://detailedimage.com. they have a lot of good info there and almost always have something good on sale.

Starplaya

Where can I purchase Optimum Polish locally? Wal-mart, autoparts, oreillys?
As far as the buffing pads go, since wool is too rough, which other should I use?
Should I work my way up to a wool pad and 3m rubbing compound, or just use a lighter pad and Optimum Polish as my only layer?

I realize that detailing a car takes a lot of time and patience, but i'v already spent hours researching what products to use and how to properly use a buffer, so I am fairly confident that I can handle the task. Worst come to worst, I'd rather mess up my 93 SC lexus than my future (when I'm rich of course) LFA lexus. Besides, i'm really big on "DIY" and I enjoy learning new traits, especially if they will end up saving me thousands in the long run.

One HoT

iTrader: (5)

optimum polish is not available locally. autogeek.net, detailedimage.com, or detailersdomain.com carry it. whats special about this polish is that it varies in abrasiveness according to which type of pad you use because of this it is easy to use and versatile in many situations. again use least aggressive, "FINE" cutting pad first. pads may vary in abrasiveness, wool being the most aggressive, to mild, to fine cutting abilities. I have wool pad in my collection but i RARELY need to use it. once you use wool, you'll need to follow up with at least a 2 stage polish in order to correct the damage it left behind.

polish is not layered but rather an abrasive, which cut a very thin micro-layer off of your paint surface. Many over the counter items may market their products as polish but it is more of a AIO "all in one" polish and synthetic sealant together. Nu polish and meg's NXT sealant are two examples of such products. such product made to be used by hand.

buffer pads, not sure what size backing plate you have on that buffer, this will determine the size of the pad you need. start out with a fine polishing pad. you can find it at the above mention sites

it doesn't sound like you were given good advice or wherever you are doing you research is not giving you accurate information. also a lot of these sites may be misleading and misinforming. I suggest you read up on autopia.org, many pros go there. great accurate info

LiCelsior

iTrader: (32)

One HoT knows his stuff! listen to him.

1JZPWRD

iTrader: (59)

I have to chime in on this one..

I have to agree with One Hot. You need to start out with simply a good wash job, utilizing a harsh type of soap. I recommend Dawn or Joy detergent. I say this to get down to the actual finish of the car and to remove just about everything. This is the most important step in detailing. Secondly, I would use a mixture of soap and water in a spray bottle, if nothing else is available to you, and clay the entire car, including any rubber moldings, and glass. You will be amazed at the stuff that gets onto your glass and rubber compounds.

Thirdly, then use a foam or cotton pad on low speed at around 1500-1800 on your new orbiter. before you use this and you have never buffed before, I highly encourage you to tape off the moldings, etc, that you may burn. Once burned, its burned. Also cover up your windshiled wipers, this will reduce the compund on them too. This will also assure you dont get any rubbing compund on there and it will stain it, if let on too long. When you start buffing work your way left to right, or start at the front right of the car and work your way back toward the end, until you reach your starting point again. When you reach the top of the car, do it first, this way you dont have to lean over the door you just buffed. Its common sense. The compund will be slung down and away from you if you use this method. Once you finish buffing it, and you still see deep scratches or light swirls, then go a little deeper compund and change pads, maybe to a wool pad, and do just that section. Remember anytime you use a wool pad or cutting compund, its very abrasive, and you must use a polish, swirl remover over the section you just done.

You also need to spur or clean the pad on every section of the car. In other words, do a fender, then spur, do the hood, then spur, etc. This will highly reduce the amount of compund on the pad, and keep the buffer from jumping around. All proffesional detailers know what I am talking about.

Next, once you have removed all of the imperfections and swirls, then I would pressure wash all of the car. This saves alot of time and effort in removing the compund. This is what I do. If there is not alot of compund, then I will not use the pressure washer, I will use a detail brush, and a micro fiber rag.

Once dried off or compund removed use a heavy buffer, not high spped, a heavy in weight orbiter. This will save alot of time and effort in putting on wax and removing. I use a wax called Flint Glaze wax. Its hard as hell to put on, but it last a super long time and its durable. You can also put wax on by hand, thats your decision. You can get to more places on the car with using the hand method.

Dont forget to wetsand the headlights, taillights. Then use cutting compund, then polish, then wax them. I would also recommend painting the wheel wells flat black and the undercarriage. How does a car look going down the road, when you see shiny paint, and then you see mud and dirt on the inside of the wheels and under the vehicle. Spray it black and polish the exhaust tips, and emblems, where applies.

I am a proffessional car detailer, and have been for years. If you want more info, PM me or post.

MongooseGA

iTrader: (6)

Glad to see there are a few people who know what they're talking about in here.

To the OP- I really recommend either spending more time researching or the money to have it done by a good professional.

You can't really just jump into 'boutique' detailing without experience. Especially if you intend to use a rotary buffer (BTW, "buffer" is not a verb").

Check out autopia.org. Lots of great info and helpful people over there. You learn gradually. I guarantee you won't jump right into it and find what works for you and what provides you with negative results.

Don't give professionals another reason to think DIY'ers don't know what they're doing- a lot of us probably know more details of detailing than the pros do... But I've spent seven years learning and perfecting technique, as I'm sure some of the others in this thread have as well...

N00bie909

iTrader: (5)

I say diy. I didn't know a thing about detailing when I was hired at my work and now its all pretty simple just go for it make sure you use good material though like 3m compounds and pads.

scENFORCER

I would never detail my car DIY style, unless I took a course or something first lol.
Once a year I spend $300 on a professional detailed. They normally do high end exotics and luxuries, so they really know their stuff. Theyre also mobile so I watched them detail the SC in my driveway once, and lemme tell ya the care, science, expertise, and experience they have in doing this typa stuff is stuff I would NEVER learn from a board.
Might be a good idea to actually watch a car get professionally detailed before you try to undertake this DIY. OR, might even be worth it to buy an old door or hood to practice on before hand..?

Beardog

iTrader: (1)

Give a child a fish, or teach him how to fish...you will get two widely divergent end results!

I started detailing my own cars a couple of years ago. I now have a cabinet full of different products in my garage, and a Flex dual action rotary buffer (the best $350 I ever spent). I learn something new every time I detail a car, and every time one of these threads comes up on a forum. As long as an amateur stays away from a high speed rotary buffer (what the pros use, mostly), you probably won't damage your paint. Use a random action/ dual action buffer, and chances are, you will be OK, even if you don't keep the buffer moving at all times. I love detailing my cars. For others, I am sure that it is a chore to be avoided at all costs. So far, Zaino products are my favorites, but I am never adverse to trying something else! I agree completely with Dawn Ultra dish washing detergent followed by a good clay bar (this is the most time consuming step). If you can feel any grittiness before you start applying your final products, you won't be happy with the end result.

1JZPWRD

iTrader: (59)

Glad my reccomendation of the Dawn detergent idea worked for someone. If you are going to do something, do it right the first time.

Starplaya

I'm surprised as to why so many people on this forum are against me detailing my car when everybody I have asked in person says to go for it and so long as I am careful it's really not that bad.

I really appreciate all of your concerns, but I intended this thread to be a supplement to my research so I could pick up additional details as to the best way to approach detailing my car, and although I got some very useful information and some recommendations for products that i'm definitely going to check, i'm kind of disappointed and slightly annoyed at the amount of people telling me to drop $250 rather than learning how to do it myself. Most forums that i'v been on have always supported the DIY method....

Anyways, i'm pretty much finish with my research, i'll be ordering my products tomorrow and will pick a couple up from the store. I'll probably spend the better part of the day carefully detailing my car either Thursday or Friday and will report back with my results.

Thank You to everybody who gave me valuable advice and special thanks to those who mentioned quality products for me to use.

Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays CL!