Whats The Easiest Swap??
12-23-10, 09:47 AM
#3
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well when i mean easy i bet reliability should already be a key factor so i mean Hench easy
Car has 159,968
motor 90,000 but dont kno for sure car is a 92 sc300 auto
Car has 159,968
motor 90,000 but dont kno for sure car is a 92 sc300 auto
12-23-10, 09:55 AM
#4
Well, if the motor has roughly 90k, then it's tune up time if you want to go NA-T. This is about $800-1,200 for the true 90k service which is what you need. Then add the NA-T cost $1,500+2,500, then tuning, etc. You can find loads of 1J's these days for $2k or less, but you will probably want to service this as well. How is your mechanical skills? That will determine your "which is easier" question. Reliability can be found with servicing and proper tuning.
12-23-10, 09:59 AM
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i have a whole shop and all tools mind u im 17 im very mechanical dont let age fool u.
im looking to spent 2k$ so idk plus i need to redo interior and rear quarter and new front end cause bumpers cracked and driver head light has alotta water.
im looking to spent 2k$ so idk plus i need to redo interior and rear quarter and new front end cause bumpers cracked and driver head light has alotta water.
12-23-10, 10:13 AM
#6
For some people swapping an engine is easier than turbo charging one.
For every person the easy path is much different.
For me na-t is easy as cake because I know it inside out, but for others a swap is only a weekend affair.
If you have 0 experience with turbochargers and turbo-charging, then a swap may be the easier path.
If you have never pulled an engine before, than NA-t may be the easier path.
For every person the easy path is much different.
For me na-t is easy as cake because I know it inside out, but for others a swap is only a weekend affair.
If you have 0 experience with turbochargers and turbo-charging, then a swap may be the easier path.
If you have never pulled an engine before, than NA-t may be the easier path.
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12-23-10, 10:37 AM
#8
Well, I've completed both NA-T and 1JZ swaps. NA-T is definitely the easier/cheaper way to gt boosted. If you are only looking for 300-350ish whp than I suggest going NA-T if you want any more than that then a swap would make tuning easier. My current set-up is NA-T with 181K on the stock motor and headgasket making about 400whp.
12-23-10, 11:10 AM
#10
ive debated this and still do(mainly because i dont believe my motor is running at 100%) but regardless i still think na-t is best set up..you know what ur motor is about and like mentioned you'd want to service both..and eventually on 1jz you'd want to go single..so overall the 1jz will cost more money compared to the na-t although there is some goods with 1jz with COP and FFIM etc..just things like that ..but in the end i think both are very good i prefer 2jzge-t though...
12-23-10, 02:45 PM
#14
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Have you done any maintenance on your car like WP, TB all the other stuff? if not you need to do those first.
What transmission are you running on your car? if manual ! you will need a new clutch.
If you are auto the stock auto will not hold 450hp.
I love Na-t but i will tell you this they both will cost you alot of money in the long run, because you will always want more so before you start you need to honest with yourself about your power goal. It's not cheap to make 450rwhp.
If you do na-T
The maintenance will cost you around $600 if you do the labor by yourself.
Same goes with the 1JZ you must do the preventive maintenace on the engine.
Na-T you will these parts if you wanna do it right the first time.
Precision Turbo T4 60-1 or 62mm $500-$850 depending on the condition.
Tial WG or Precision WG $200-$350.
HKS BOV $50-$150
Turbo manifold $100-$150
Oil Lines $100-$210
Intercooler FM do let anyone tell to use the SMIC just spend $150 you will get a nice one.
You will spend another $100 or so on some welding, like V band for the WG on the manifold, dump tube, and BOV on intercooler piping.
AEM Wideband $150-$250
If you manual You will need a new clucth $350-$500
3" DP $100-$150
New Plugs, and Manual Boost controler.
The ECU part I will let you decide!!! they are different options , I don't like Piggybacks but if that what you can afford i say go for and don't try to boost 17psi on the stock ECU.
1JZ will need everything that's above if you want more than 300 rwhp but with the 1JZ you may have to spend 700 to get your harness done from Tweak unless the swap came from a soarer even at that point you will need to move some pins around.
With the 1JZ you can tune it with an Safc + stock 1JZ ECU or some other pigy back.
If you are good at wiring you can just buy and aristo ECU and use your GE harness on your 1JZ it works great if you know how to do it, atleast i got it to work.
Some goes to the Na-T you can run an Aristo ECU on it and it will run like a Single Turbo 2JZGTE.
You will need the stock 1JZ/2JZGTE map and AIT sensor to use the Aristo ECU with it.
I am tired i will update this list tomorrow
Peace.
What transmission are you running on your car? if manual ! you will need a new clutch.
If you are auto the stock auto will not hold 450hp.
I love Na-t but i will tell you this they both will cost you alot of money in the long run, because you will always want more so before you start you need to honest with yourself about your power goal. It's not cheap to make 450rwhp.
If you do na-T
The maintenance will cost you around $600 if you do the labor by yourself.
Same goes with the 1JZ you must do the preventive maintenace on the engine.
Na-T you will these parts if you wanna do it right the first time.
Precision Turbo T4 60-1 or 62mm $500-$850 depending on the condition.
Tial WG or Precision WG $200-$350.
HKS BOV $50-$150
Turbo manifold $100-$150
Oil Lines $100-$210
Intercooler FM do let anyone tell to use the SMIC just spend $150 you will get a nice one.
You will spend another $100 or so on some welding, like V band for the WG on the manifold, dump tube, and BOV on intercooler piping.
AEM Wideband $150-$250
If you manual You will need a new clucth $350-$500
3" DP $100-$150
New Plugs, and Manual Boost controler.
The ECU part I will let you decide!!! they are different options , I don't like Piggybacks but if that what you can afford i say go for and don't try to boost 17psi on the stock ECU.
1JZ will need everything that's above if you want more than 300 rwhp but with the 1JZ you may have to spend 700 to get your harness done from Tweak unless the swap came from a soarer even at that point you will need to move some pins around.
With the 1JZ you can tune it with an Safc + stock 1JZ ECU or some other pigy back.
If you are good at wiring you can just buy and aristo ECU and use your GE harness on your 1JZ it works great if you know how to do it, atleast i got it to work.
Some goes to the Na-T you can run an Aristo ECU on it and it will run like a Single Turbo 2JZGTE.
You will need the stock 1JZ/2JZGTE map and AIT sensor to use the Aristo ECU with it.
I am tired i will update this list tomorrow
Peace.
