SOLEdier

iTrader: (2)

i saw that its possible to go single for a real good price and the holset diesel turbo is the turbo to do it with it.

-What turbo should run on my engine..thinking whether the hx/hy35 or hx40 because of how many liters i have and its a ported head (supposebly)
-i wanted to know what turbo mani would fit right on with these holset turbos

bascically how much am i looking at to do this a.s.a.p. to get the smokey twins out there..
and what will i need... i already have a 1.5jz in it with stock tt

read on here a guy got everything for about $800 (that makes me excited lol)

SOLEdier

iTrader: (2)

anyone wanna help out the youngin....

SC904

hx/hy35 will give you a quicker spool, more suitable for local street driving. hx/hy40 will be more suitable if you have a mild upgraded internal, but it's still suitable for a stock ge/gte. Just a little bit laggy but give you better result on high end (highway driving). Turbo manifold could be custom made or a better/easier way is having a sandwich adapter plate (T3 to T4). Downpipe will be custom made. I haven't found anything that can match/fit the angle of the turbo that route nicely down to meet the midpipe. Good Luck. It should be really fun to have a hy/hx turbo.

SOLEdier

iTrader: (2)

thanks sc904, you know how much im looking at, as in hp with the hx35 and how much it can take???

imDementeD

iTrader: (7)

i understand you're young but you really need to research, a lot of these questions can be answered...as far as how much power..you havent given enough info for that to be answered..
whats your c/r ? pump gas? what are you using to tune with?
another thing thats a huge importance..what tranny are u using..doesnt matter how much power you make if your tranny cant handle it.

also what goals do you have in mind..cant recommend a turbo without a whp in mind..
how do you plan to drive the car? dd? drag? drift? tracking? highway queen? all these things matter when determining a setup

SOLEdier

iTrader: (2)

yea i still have a lot to learn about the lexus game...came from a honda and its a big difference...

well lets starts with, i dont have anything to tune it with (looking into an safc) the car is my DD, i might slide it but as of now looking to go single turbo/and have it reliable.
since its my DD im looking for around 400whp-500 no more than 600bhp or so for dd.
as far as gas...pump. in the future when the car is on point ill try e85 but calls for tuning so thats for later.
when i have it built i will be running on low boost till i can get it tuned which shouldnt take long depending how long it takes to get the single on.

ive done quite a bit of searching but kinda confused on what is exactly what i need and what i can get of this setup so i was trying to get it straight. and do this asap

lmk if you need to any other info that can help u, help me =]

SOLEdier

iTrader: (2)

also have the w58, i know it wont last to long from what you guys say but ive read that it can hold 400whp (if your lucky i guess)

with that said i wont be running to much boost until i get a r154

imDementeD

iTrader: (7)

still need comp. ratio to determine what kind of boost you can even run on pump gas.

spoolxexo

iTrader: (4)

I already told you what to do. Why are you asking again?

HX35 has a beefier shaft for the CHRA then the 40 series. So do the 35.

HX35 will go up to more horsepower then you can handle.

And what do you mean as far as gas...pump. That doesn't mean anything.

91 octane, 93 octane? 84 octane? That's what matters. The higher the number, the higher detonation resistance.

Eg. 93 octane @ 15lbs on a HX35. You can have up to 20-23 degrees timing before you detonate. 91 octane, only 15-18 degrees. Timing makes horsepower.

You can run 50lbs of boost on 91 octane, but your timing will only be 1-2 degrees. It's a pretty linear scale with boost vs. timing in regards to octane..

It's not the boost or timing that melts engines, its *Cylinder pressure. The combination of both.

You heard the term Cheap, Fast, Reliable, pick 2?

Compression, boost, timing. Pick two. But that's a whole other can of worms.

You will be fine with an HX35 bolted up, at 12 lbs or so. Everything can handle that horsepower level fine. (Inj, trans, ecu,etc)

Don't talk about it, be about it!

scmissle

HX35 are a t3 flanged turbos, and they like boost, so the power band at 12 PSi wont be all to impressive. Most DSM guys run 35+PSI for good numbers. get a smaller housing, and it will help, get some pistons (wisecos can be had for $500 on sale, the stock rods will hold fine from a ge or GTE bottom end assuming the engine hasn't been beat up and the rods are still in good condition. Something more than a AFC should be used for tuning, I'd go e-manage ultimate for this turbo. Holsets DO NOT have a nice power band, its nothing and then in your face it takes off, making it hard to tune. Use a dyno and a professional tuner. A head gasket to drop compression down if (using ge bottom end and not upgrading pistons) and if your only running 12 LBS then use an MSD adjustable Boost Timing controller if using the AFC. Also if you run this Holset the way the power comes on your going to have to watch that transmission. These turbos are putting AWD DSM in the mid 10's, but they also eat the transfer cases because of the boost coming on so fast. And if you do want more power on 91 octane, use meth injection. Hope this helps

antonio356

iTrader: (3)

Not to jack the thread but seeing that we're talking about JZ's and holsets I think this can help the OP as well.. I have a 1JZ and a Holset HX35. I want to know if anyone has any idea as to if I have to run an oil feed restrictor with a -4AN line? If so what size oil feed restrictor would I need? Lastly Would a -10AN oil return be fine?

spoolxexo

iTrader: (4)

Oil feed retrictors are for Ball-bearing CHRA's.

This is a diesel turbo, so it usually gets 60-100psi oil pressure anyways.

Lag is less of a concern in this case, as the stock twins are smoked.

HX35 is the most efficient at the end of it's compressor map, yes.

12 psi will do more than the stock twins at the same boost level, so that alone is worth the 2-300 bucks you can get one for.

The fact that the HX35 is cheap, and can hold boost in the upper 30's no problem, its a great alternative to other single setups, and much less expensive and reliable option then rebuilding the twins.

Low buck power is the name of the game here, and it will do just fine until the "youngin" can do some more research.

Guest

yes you need a oil restricter but not sure what size because with my na-t holset h1e build i think i used a 4an straight to the turbo and flooded that sucker up. lol

spoolxexo

iTrader: (4)

That is not a typical occurrence.

-4 is like fuel line for 2000hp dragsters! Or coolant!

antonio356

iTrader: (3)

Um... If it was they would probably be popping alot of motors just trying to start it.. The smaller the number of the AN size the smaller the size of the line.. e.g. -4AN is way smaller than a -10AN.. So the larger the AN number the larger the diameter of the orfice or line.