Driver Side Power Window
08-19-03, 06:55 PM
#16
Window prob!!!
Okay guys,
I have the similar driverside window problem! Driverside: lock and mirrors work, window buttons DO NOT! I have to reach to the pass side to lower the window but at least the side works. I took the door panel apart to check if any connectors were loose but none were. What could it be? This means no drive-thru for awhile
I have the similar driverside window problem! Driverside: lock and mirrors work, window buttons DO NOT! I have to reach to the pass side to lower the window but at least the side works. I took the door panel apart to check if any connectors were loose but none were. What could it be? This means no drive-thru for awhile
08-19-03, 07:07 PM
#17
Keeper of the light
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Toy, it IS your connections, just in the switch instead. It is rather tricky to work with inside them for the average joe, so if you want me to clean and rework your contacts, just pm me and i'll rebuild the switch. it wont require any parts, so it wont cost you anything.
08-19-03, 09:56 PM
#19
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Here's the difference in what i said and what you said. Do you know what the "thick pink one" is? Do you know what voltage runs through it? Do you know that a contact mod inside the switch can eliminate the need for the thick pink wire that always breaks? There are a few things to know
08-20-03, 07:00 AM
#20
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The big thick pink one is the Main Power Lead for all the 12vt Constant and relay switched connection. It is 12vt+ Constant and the wire itself is 14awg Copper. The wire itself is fused inside the car with a 20 amp Blade. Inside the door it is part of a Molex plug that connects to the main switch harness and then distributes to the rest of the doors constant power needs.
That what you mean?
My question is: Are you rerouting power from another source, thereby eliminating the need for that Pink Wire?... I would asume this could cause other problems with fuses overloading and amperage. Would it be simplier just to run a braided 16awg wire through the door boot? Thats what I did on my 1995 SC400... Easy and guarantees that it will not break again..
Its hard to believe, but I use to do stuff like this all the time.
That what you mean?
My question is: Are you rerouting power from another source, thereby eliminating the need for that Pink Wire?... I would asume this could cause other problems with fuses overloading and amperage. Would it be simplier just to run a braided 16awg wire through the door boot? Thats what I did on my 1995 SC400... Easy and guarantees that it will not break again..
Its hard to believe, but I use to do stuff like this all the time.
Last edited by 2Lexus430s; 08-20-03 at 07:13 AM.
08-20-03, 07:07 AM
#21
Keeper of the light
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Very good 
Of course rewiring the switch can eliminate that problem for good 
There's always other ways the window motors draw a few amps but not enough to overload the switched power circut. This is a fix provided that someone can't go through re-wiring everything at a given time and just want their window to go down .
Of course rewiring the switch can eliminate that problem for good There's always other ways the window motors draw a few amps but not enough to overload the switched power circut. This is a fix provided that someone can't go through re-wiring everything at a given time and just want their window to go down .
10-19-03, 08:55 AM
#22
My damn button is giving me fits today... I went out to the store everything worked fine... When I got back to work and tired to roll up my driver side window it would not go up, I tested the pass side (from the driver controls) and it works fine... I can get my driver window up but it takes alot of messing with the switch to get it up... I took the switch off the door really quick and cleaned the connections and still does not seem to work 
It was find up until today... So do I need a new switch (as was stated in this thread) or is there something else I can do, I have not looked inside the switch yet, but that was my next step unless someone has a better idea...
Thx for everyones time...
Shawn
It was find up until today... So do I need a new switch (as was stated in this thread) or is there something else I can do, I have not looked inside the switch yet, but that was my next step unless someone has a better idea...Thx for everyones time...
Shawn
10-19-03, 07:00 PM
#23
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There is a notorious part in the lexus coupe that breaks frequently. It is a plastic clip that rides the channel and allows the window to go up. Its fixed to the cable mechanism and eventually to the window regulator. This is 1 part from lexus, because it tends to break frequently. I got mine for about 160, and its a simple install.
I guarantee this is you're guys problem. the plastic often breaks, and the cable no longer actuates the window along the track.
I guarantee this is you're guys problem. the plastic often breaks, and the cable no longer actuates the window along the track.
10-20-03, 02:03 PM
#24
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Originally posted by ajayR
There is a notorious part in the lexus coupe that breaks frequently. It is a plastic clip that rides the channel and allows the window to go up. Its fixed to the cable mechanism and eventually to the window regulator. This is 1 part from lexus, because it tends to break frequently. I got mine for about 160, and its a simple install.
I guarantee this is you're guys problem. the plastic often breaks, and the cable no longer actuates the window along the track.
There is a notorious part in the lexus coupe that breaks frequently. It is a plastic clip that rides the channel and allows the window to go up. Its fixed to the cable mechanism and eventually to the window regulator. This is 1 part from lexus, because it tends to break frequently. I got mine for about 160, and its a simple install.
I guarantee this is you're guys problem. the plastic often breaks, and the cable no longer actuates the window along the track.
They are refering to the thick pink wire that runs through the door boot. When this wire breaks it causes the powered features on the door not to work properly. You can either replace or repair this wire. "One" prefers the "Rerouting" method, I prefer the "replacing" method.
Last edited by 2Lexus430s; 10-20-03 at 02:04 PM.
10-20-03, 02:19 PM
#25
I have taken my switch apart and its something wrong with the button... I think it is just wore out from alot of use because it lets the window down fine just seems not to want to let the window go up with out some fit, with the botton off I can get the window to go up eaiser but looks like I need a whole new unit because of how it is layed out...
Shawn
Shawn
10-20-03, 04:28 PM
#26
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Originally posted by asnatlas
I have taken my switch apart and its something wrong with the button... I think it is just wore out from alot of use because it lets the window down fine just seems not to want to let the window go up with out some fit, with the botton off I can get the window to go up eaiser but looks like I need a whole new unit because of how it is layed out...
Shawn
I have taken my switch apart and its something wrong with the button... I think it is just wore out from alot of use because it lets the window down fine just seems not to want to let the window go up with out some fit, with the botton off I can get the window to go up eaiser but looks like I need a whole new unit because of how it is layed out...
Shawn
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