Stereo Wiring - 0gauge wire?
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Just wondering if 0gauge wire will be able to fit through any existing holes in the firewall. I don't want to really drill any new holes, I'll be pushing 1500rms and would like to use bigger than 4gauge.
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I have a single 4 gauge running from my yellow top up front to a battery in the trunk. From the rear battery 3 4 gauge wires run a short distance to 2 JL 500/1's and a 300/4.
That's 1300rms, and with a 145amp alternator, I have no issues.
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Instead of running a long (and expensive) 0gauge, run a 4 gauge to the rear and put another battery back there.
I have a single 4 gauge running from my yellow top up front to a battery in the trunk. From the rear battery 3 4 gauge wires run a short distance to 2 JL 500/1's and a 300/4.
That's 1300rms, and with a 145amp alternator, I have no issues.
I have a single 4 gauge running from my yellow top up front to a battery in the trunk. From the rear battery 3 4 gauge wires run a short distance to 2 JL 500/1's and a 300/4.
That's 1300rms, and with a 145amp alternator, I have no issues.
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#7
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Instead of running a long (and expensive) 0gauge, run a 4 gauge to the rear and put another battery back there.
I have a single 4 gauge running from my yellow top up front to a battery in the trunk. From the rear battery 3 4 gauge wires run a short distance to 2 JL 500/1's and a 300/4.
That's 1300rms, and with a 145amp alternator, I have no issues.
I have a single 4 gauge running from my yellow top up front to a battery in the trunk. From the rear battery 3 4 gauge wires run a short distance to 2 JL 500/1's and a 300/4.
That's 1300rms, and with a 145amp alternator, I have no issues.
A second battery is a vary bad idea on the factory alternator. It is another load on the electric system. More importantly the stock battery has over 600A of reserve capacity, enough to deal with high bass peak draws if you can just deliver it.
Clean93 if your car is an automatic drill a hole where the clutch master cylinder would be.
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Thanks for the tips guys but i'm not trying to get too crazy with the the wiring just yet. i'll check the voltage and see how bad it is first and if it spikes then i'll consider that. The most i'll do is the big 3 upgrade for now and hope on the efficiency of my amps JBL gto 1201.1 & GTO75.4II
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Wiring is all about being able to deliver power. Batteries are about storing power. You can't just substitute one for the other.
A second battery is a vary bad idea on the factory alternator. It is another load on the electric system. More importantly the stock battery has over 600A of reserve capacity, enough to deal with high bass peak draws if you can just deliver it.
Clean93 if your car is an automatic drill a hole where the clutch master cylinder would be.
A second battery is a vary bad idea on the factory alternator. It is another load on the electric system. More importantly the stock battery has over 600A of reserve capacity, enough to deal with high bass peak draws if you can just deliver it.
Clean93 if your car is an automatic drill a hole where the clutch master cylinder would be.
Now this is my specialty. I have been into Car Audio for over 18 years. As a hobby and as a profession. I now have my own high end speaker line.
But the above is 100% correct. Just adding another battery in parallel with the main battery will do more harm then good.
Next thing battery store energy well but release the power/energy very slow, much to slow to keep up with the peaks and transition of dynamic bass lines. This is why your lights dim, yes if your alternator was larger it would help, but if you battery release power quicker that demand would not effect your alternator as much.
Then along came the caps, now they release energy fast, but doesn't store enough energy to be very effective. no matter what they tell you. The things need to be at least 30-40 farads just to even start to make a difference and I mean a true 30-40 farads.
Ok so what do we do. along came the hybrids. Batcap, kitenik and the sorts. These units are a hybrids of what a battery can store and a cap speed of release.
Now if you must add a second battery to the rear please and i mean please add a isolator to the charging system. Or just move you main battery to the rear of the car.
#10
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Don't forget the other two of the "big three". You have a big power cable, don't forget to upgrade the one from the alternator to the battery and the battery's ground.
No need to drill any holes in the firewall. If you look at your brake master cylinder, from the front of the car, to the right will be a large access hole leading into the fender area. You can route your cable through there and into the cabin through the grommet for the factory harness. Make sure the cable is secured properly.
No need to drill any holes in the firewall. If you look at your brake master cylinder, from the front of the car, to the right will be a large access hole leading into the fender area. You can route your cable through there and into the cabin through the grommet for the factory harness. Make sure the cable is secured properly.
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Does kinetik make a battery for us that will fit in the stock location? that will hold up well with the power? I was thinking a yellow top optima, whatever one will do best. Factory alternator is 90amps does that sound right?
Also how do I edit my signature to just say my name? Steve C.
Also how do I edit my signature to just say my name? Steve C.
Last edited by clean93; 02-03-11 at 06:49 PM.
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->Hole where clutch master cylinder would be. Get underneath the dash and you'll see toyota was kind enough to even leave a trace out of of where to drill.
->Under carpet around the door trim
->Under rear seat butt rest.
->Behind rear seat back rest. When you pull the back rest of the rear seat you'll see a GAINT metal plate. Remove it and you're in the trunk.