Need help with 1JZ body plugs
#1
Need help with 1JZ body plugs
Im stuck at a halt with my swap. I been searching all over the net, asking different car forums for body plug pinout/diagrams for the JZZ30 but no one seems to have it. I have a few wires that are disconnected from the body plug and dont know where they go.
I aquired an engine set from a buddy a few months ago. He told me that its plug and play and all it needed was a block. I got it rebuilt, dropped it in and noticed that theres a few wires that are soldered but disconnected. I tried asking for help but my buddy doesnt remember cause its been over 4 years since he parted with this.
So we soldered some of the matching wires but still the car wont start and there was no difference. It would crank but not start, then we got it started twice and it ran for 30-40 sec then stalled. When the car idled it sounded real bad, like it was misfiring bigtime. It threw a code 13 and 14.
Im thinking the 2 wires that are disconnected may have something to do with it. Or it also can be a bad ECU and coilpacks cause I bought these used and dont really know the condition.
Heres the wires that are disconnected, I read most of the build threads on here atleast twice. I dont remember anyone having to cut any wires from the body plugs, only to extend them. And only for the 95s for the 3k sputter problem.
Lemme know if you 1JZ guys see anything outta place or anything wrong here. We have spark, we have fuel, timing looks to be dead on. I had to do it twice cause of a leaking front main seal.
White plug-IK2? solid green wire cut, no missing cut wire coming out of the white plug
Orange plug-IK1? black wire disconnected, we soldered them back and pin #18 is clipped
Large grey plug-IJ2? there are 2 thick orange/black wires. one set got disconnected
Edit: I also forgot to add that a friend accidently yanked out a wire from a plug, he doesnt know which one and thinks it may be one of the grey plugs. Are all black wires GROUND?
I aquired an engine set from a buddy a few months ago. He told me that its plug and play and all it needed was a block. I got it rebuilt, dropped it in and noticed that theres a few wires that are soldered but disconnected. I tried asking for help but my buddy doesnt remember cause its been over 4 years since he parted with this.
So we soldered some of the matching wires but still the car wont start and there was no difference. It would crank but not start, then we got it started twice and it ran for 30-40 sec then stalled. When the car idled it sounded real bad, like it was misfiring bigtime. It threw a code 13 and 14.
Im thinking the 2 wires that are disconnected may have something to do with it. Or it also can be a bad ECU and coilpacks cause I bought these used and dont really know the condition.
Heres the wires that are disconnected, I read most of the build threads on here atleast twice. I dont remember anyone having to cut any wires from the body plugs, only to extend them. And only for the 95s for the 3k sputter problem.
Lemme know if you 1JZ guys see anything outta place or anything wrong here. We have spark, we have fuel, timing looks to be dead on. I had to do it twice cause of a leaking front main seal.
White plug-IK2? solid green wire cut, no missing cut wire coming out of the white plug
Orange plug-IK1? black wire disconnected, we soldered them back and pin #18 is clipped
Large grey plug-IJ2? there are 2 thick orange/black wires. one set got disconnected
Edit: I also forgot to add that a friend accidently yanked out a wire from a plug, he doesnt know which one and thinks it may be one of the grey plugs. Are all black wires GROUND?
Last edited by 6SOARER; 02-07-11 at 10:28 PM.
#2
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (5)
IJ1
Red/yellow (ELS)
Yellow/Green - (Engine Light)
Small Black/White (Neutral Start Switch )
small black/white - (Starter)
Red (Fuel)
Green (Fuel)
red/green -Fuel
Black/Orange (Switched power, ignition)
Black/Red (Fuel Main)
IJ2
Pink (Speed)
Black/Yellow (12v switch, alt to charge batt)
Yellow (speed sensor)
Red ( Primary Throttle ) TPS
Black/Orange (switched power, ignition)
IK1
Yellow/Black (Oil pressure gauge)
Red/Black (Reverse lights)
Yellow/Green (Water Temp Gauge)
Black (Tach)
Blue/yellow -(engine light)
Red/blue IJ1 (speed sensor)
Blue -(at switch)
IK2
Brown (Ground for Fuel Pump)
Black (NSW)
Black/blue (NSW)
Brown (ground for cluster)
Red/yellow (ELS)
Yellow/Green - (Engine Light)
Small Black/White (Neutral Start Switch )
small black/white - (Starter)
Red (Fuel)
Green (Fuel)
red/green -Fuel
Black/Orange (Switched power, ignition)
Black/Red (Fuel Main)
IJ2
Pink (Speed)
Black/Yellow (12v switch, alt to charge batt)
Yellow (speed sensor)
Red ( Primary Throttle ) TPS
Black/Orange (switched power, ignition)
IK1
Yellow/Black (Oil pressure gauge)
Red/Black (Reverse lights)
Yellow/Green (Water Temp Gauge)
Black (Tach)
Blue/yellow -(engine light)
Red/blue IJ1 (speed sensor)
Blue -(at switch)
IK2
Brown (Ground for Fuel Pump)
Black (NSW)
Black/blue (NSW)
Brown (ground for cluster)
#3
IJ1
Red/yellow (ELS)
Yellow/Green - (Engine Light)
Small Black/White (Neutral Start Switch )
small black/white - (Starter)
Red (Fuel)
Green (Fuel)
red/green -Fuel
Black/Orange (Switched power, ignition)
Black/Red (Fuel Main)
IJ2
Pink (Speed)
Black/Yellow (12v switch, alt to charge batt)
Yellow (speed sensor)
Red ( Primary Throttle ) TPS
Black/Orange (switched power, ignition)
IK1
Yellow/Black (Oil pressure gauge)
Red/Black (Reverse lights)
Yellow/Green (Water Temp Gauge)
Black (Tach)
Blue/yellow -(engine light)
Red/blue IJ1 (speed sensor)
Blue -(at switch)
IK2
Brown (Ground for Fuel Pump)
Black (NSW)
Black/blue (NSW)
Brown (ground for cluster)
Red/yellow (ELS)
Yellow/Green - (Engine Light)
Small Black/White (Neutral Start Switch )
small black/white - (Starter)
Red (Fuel)
Green (Fuel)
red/green -Fuel
Black/Orange (Switched power, ignition)
Black/Red (Fuel Main)
IJ2
Pink (Speed)
Black/Yellow (12v switch, alt to charge batt)
Yellow (speed sensor)
Red ( Primary Throttle ) TPS
Black/Orange (switched power, ignition)
IK1
Yellow/Black (Oil pressure gauge)
Red/Black (Reverse lights)
Yellow/Green (Water Temp Gauge)
Black (Tach)
Blue/yellow -(engine light)
Red/blue IJ1 (speed sensor)
Blue -(at switch)
IK2
Brown (Ground for Fuel Pump)
Black (NSW)
Black/blue (NSW)
Brown (ground for cluster)
#7
I got the car running but it feels like Im hitting Fuel cut or something else. At full throttle the car would sputter. It was a bad ECU that caused the car not to start but some of the wires are still disconnected. I still havent figured out where the Green wire and the black wire goes.
I tried contacting them and I think it was Nick that told me it would be best to send the wire harness in so they can take a look at it. He wouldnt give me any wire diagram/wire schematic info..
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#10
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (4)
It's probably the coil pack clips, as it is on every old 1JZ.
You can zip tie them, or solder in new clips.
Accountx2 you gotta give credit for that article, you didn't write it. Waganstyle did.
Plagiarism might be cool in college, but not here.
The cut wires were from a SAFC hooked up or something.
Change your fuel filter, and plugs. This is always overlooked. Fix those Coil pack clips, and deal with the fact that No one will ever help you with wires as long as there are people buying wiring harnesses for $1400.
Best bet is to get as many schematics as you can, and learn how to use a multi-meter.
If you have a 1jz FSM, the first section shows you how to use one, and how to check circuitry.
Most people (Like me) have a Chaser 1jz, and while the ECU pinout is the same between JZZ30/JZX90, none of the wires are.
At least you have it running!
You can zip tie them, or solder in new clips.
Accountx2 you gotta give credit for that article, you didn't write it. Waganstyle did.
Plagiarism might be cool in college, but not here.
The cut wires were from a SAFC hooked up or something.
Change your fuel filter, and plugs. This is always overlooked. Fix those Coil pack clips, and deal with the fact that No one will ever help you with wires as long as there are people buying wiring harnesses for $1400.
Best bet is to get as many schematics as you can, and learn how to use a multi-meter.
If you have a 1jz FSM, the first section shows you how to use one, and how to check circuitry.
Most people (Like me) have a Chaser 1jz, and while the ECU pinout is the same between JZZ30/JZX90, none of the wires are.
At least you have it running!
#11
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (5)
I never said I wrote it nor did I try taking credit for it.
I made my own body plug pinout here.
Regardless it's a moot issue because doing the harness properly requires backtracking the body plug pinouts from the ECU, Fuse Box and Various sensor plugs in order to confirm everything is accurate.
I made my own body plug pinout here.
Regardless it's a moot issue because doing the harness properly requires backtracking the body plug pinouts from the ECU, Fuse Box and Various sensor plugs in order to confirm everything is accurate.
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