ground, tps? I'm stumped
02-21-11, 12:35 PM
#31
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Ok a little update, I cleaned all of my grounds in the engine bay and added two 4G grounds to the car. One from the block to chassis, and one from the chassis to the intake manifold. Since then, the car WILL NOT die anymore at idle.
I'm still getting some annoying misfiring under boost, and still can not get into good boost
I wonder if I should just add even more grounds?
I'm still getting some annoying misfiring under boost, and still can not get into good boost
I wonder if I should just add even more grounds?
02-21-11, 12:50 PM
#32
Ok a little update, I cleaned all of my grounds in the engine bay and added two 4G grounds to the car. One from the block to chassis, and one from the chassis to the intake manifold. Since then, the car WILL NOT die anymore at idle.
I'm still getting some annoying misfiring under boost, and still can not get into good boost
I wonder if I should just add even more grounds?
I'm still getting some annoying misfiring under boost, and still can not get into good boost
I wonder if I should just add even more grounds?
iom glad to see you made at least some progress here though --congrats and good luck once again
02-21-11, 01:45 PM
#34
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Well, The way I think of it, even if the ground kit doesn't solve it... it's still a good upgrade for when it does run properly again (if ever lol).
A local audio shop sells 0 gauge wires by the foot, and they put copper eyelets on the ends, I'm just gunna do a custom grounding kit and see what happens...
battery to chassis
block to chassis
intake manifold to chassis
transmission to chassis
Even if it doesn't cure it, I'm sure it would be good to have regardless.
any other good spots?
A local audio shop sells 0 gauge wires by the foot, and they put copper eyelets on the ends, I'm just gunna do a custom grounding kit and see what happens...
battery to chassis
block to chassis
intake manifold to chassis
transmission to chassis
Even if it doesn't cure it, I'm sure it would be good to have regardless.
any other good spots?
02-21-11, 03:31 PM
#35
Ok, now that I think about it.... is it possible to melt a ground?
when my car was running great about a year ago, I bought an AEM tru boost gauge and wired it up to the same ground wire on the ECU that my map ecu and AEM wideband, so I had two digital gauges AND the MAPECU running off the same little 16ish gauge ground wire to the ECU. The car ran fine for a day, the next day I noticed little hiccups at full boost, the hiccups got progressively worst over the next few days to the point where my car barely started..
Since then I've wired the gauges to the radio where my MAPECU was the only thing running off of that wire.
It started up and drove much better than before, yet it wasn't all the way fixed, because i'm still having these problems.... Could I have messed up that one ground wire somehow?
when my car was running great about a year ago, I bought an AEM tru boost gauge and wired it up to the same ground wire on the ECU that my map ecu and AEM wideband, so I had two digital gauges AND the MAPECU running off the same little 16ish gauge ground wire to the ECU. The car ran fine for a day, the next day I noticed little hiccups at full boost, the hiccups got progressively worst over the next few days to the point where my car barely started..
Since then I've wired the gauges to the radio where my MAPECU was the only thing running off of that wire.
It started up and drove much better than before, yet it wasn't all the way fixed, because i'm still having these problems.... Could I have messed up that one ground wire somehow?
Have you tried that yet?
02-22-11, 12:43 AM
#36
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I'm definatly down to try it... but how do I do that? are you suggesting I replace the entire wire? or maybe tie in an extra wire to that one and grounding it?
02-22-11, 06:57 AM
#38
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Pin 79 and 80b at the ecu are grounds my car will not run w/o me running a wire from 79 and 80 and ground it at the chassis lol.
So did ground the (2) grounds under the intake manifold?
So did ground the (2) grounds under the intake manifold?
02-22-11, 07:58 AM
#39
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the ground i used was B69
if you can tell me where that wire goes, (I think it's the rear ground on the intake mani) I can check for continuity from where it starts and ends.
as for adding a new ground... Do I just tie in a new wire about an inch away from the ECU plug and ground that wire? I have no idea how to replace the entire wire, getting a new wire in the plug would be my biggest problem
if you can tell me where that wire goes, (I think it's the rear ground on the intake mani) I can check for continuity from where it starts and ends.
as for adding a new ground... Do I just tie in a new wire about an inch away from the ECU plug and ground that wire? I have no idea how to replace the entire wire, getting a new wire in the plug would be my biggest problem
02-22-11, 11:47 AM
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Ok, another question... Today I went out to crank my car, and it wouldn't start.... after trying and trying I finally got it to start... and it ran like crap, horrible idling and missing, and when I revved it to 2,000 my friend standing over the engine bay thinks that he heard rod knock.... But i've never heard it before.. So my question is... could rod knock be my problem?
would the ecu detect rod knock at idle and shut the motor off? I know it enters fail safe mode and retards the timming but... would it cause my original symptoms?
shutting off randomly, missing at boost, random shutting down at boost etc...
would the ecu detect rod knock at idle and shut the motor off? I know it enters fail safe mode and retards the timming but... would it cause my original symptoms?
shutting off randomly, missing at boost, random shutting down at boost etc...
02-22-11, 12:04 PM
#42
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Damn dude this is what i would do remove all those stuff off and get it running on the stock ecu first.
You will be chasing your tail at this point because you are not even sure if all those parts were installed correctly.
Ecu will not detect any rod knock ......
You will be chasing your tail at this point because you are not even sure if all those parts were installed correctly.
Ecu will not detect any rod knock ......
02-22-11, 12:21 PM
#43
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I can't do that for so many reasons it's not even an option...
when going NA-T I deleted my MAF and threw it away, the car runs on MAP now.
I also cut up the harness and wired in a MK4 resistor and 580cc injectors. I dont have stock headers or 02 sensors or anything.. it just can't be done at this point.
To my understanding, there are two knock sensors on the car, when the ecu detects the knock, it will put the ECU in a fail-safe mode and retard the timing so that you don't blow your motor, maybe when that happens my mapecu2 fuel trims are so off that it kills the car because it's not tuned to those values?
when going NA-T I deleted my MAF and threw it away, the car runs on MAP now.
I also cut up the harness and wired in a MK4 resistor and 580cc injectors. I dont have stock headers or 02 sensors or anything.. it just can't be done at this point.
To my understanding, there are two knock sensors on the car, when the ecu detects the knock, it will put the ECU in a fail-safe mode and retard the timing so that you don't blow your motor, maybe when that happens my mapecu2 fuel trims are so off that it kills the car because it's not tuned to those values?
02-23-11, 09:42 AM
#45
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So I'm completely discouraged and completely over this car, I'm thinking I'm going to sell most of my NA-T parts and just swap in a GTE and be done with this car... I won't have nearly as much power but atleast I'd be able to drive it....
Thanks to everyone who helped out...
Probably going to put up my MAPECU2, Precision billet 6262 ball bearing, PTE 580cc injectors, manifolds ect... up for sell soon, so if anyone wants some parts for cheap, now's the time! haha
Thanks to everyone who helped out...
Probably going to put up my MAPECU2, Precision billet 6262 ball bearing, PTE 580cc injectors, manifolds ect... up for sell soon, so if anyone wants some parts for cheap, now's the time! haha