DRFT103

iTrader: (3)

Ok so i've had a problem with my car for the last year, and have not been able to drive my NA-T sc300 for a year and it's starting to bug me. I've come to the conclusion that no one out there will ever know whats causing my problem or how to fix it

stock block
precision billet 6262 ball bearing
tial 44mm
precision 580cc injectors (mk4 resistor)
mapecu2
9.2:1 compression, 17psi.

The car cranks, idles great, then shuts off about a minute later, then I crank it back up while giving it some gas, it'll idle for another 5 min then shut off again, then won't be able to start for another 15 min.

Sometimes I can drive it up and down the driveway once it's warm if i'm REALLY easy on it, but going in to boost is out of question. It doesn't have anything to do with the map, because it's on the same map as it was running great on a year ago....

it shows 13-14 volts at idle, afr's are near perfect.

however I did notice when it starts randomly trying to run ruff and bog down, if i unplug the TPS, it will idle great again but the second I plug it back in, the motor shuts off... I have replaced the TPS with a new one with no luck.

any thoughts?

so far i've replaced :

ecu
tps
iacv
all sensors on the block
distributor
igniter
coil
plug wires
plugs
cap and rotor
I also sent the mapecu2 back to new zealand for them to inspect, and they said it was fine

I tried pretty much everything being that i have 2 SC's and an extra motor.

scviolence

iTrader: (17)

i know its far fetched bro but it happened to me. perhaps something u replaced that was new was actually "bad"....i had this happened to me and it drove me frickin nuts on my na-t. then i went back to square one and was like screw this thing has to be bad so i went back exchanged it for another one bam problem solved....

DRFT103

iTrader: (3)

I just want to know what might cause this...

stockhatch

iTrader: (12)

Hmmm. So often in cases like this it is the piggyback. But you said you sent it back and had it checked. I know its a huge pita, but have you tried running the car on just the stock ecu and injectors? I am guessing that the mapecu replaces the injector and ignition wiring, and that alot of harness mods had to be made?

Does the mapecu datalog? What do the logs say as far as sensor inputs during the anomalies?

stockhatch

iTrader: (12)

If you put a timing light on it and/or pull a plug, do you get spark when it is in its no start mood?

DRFT103

iTrader: (3)

so you recommend I put a timing light on it when it dies and wont crank back up? should I still jump the terminals?

stockhatch

iTrader: (12)

Sorry, jump what terminals? I was wondering if you put a timing light on #1 plug wire, and crank the car over to see if you get a pulse. Or, a better test would be to pull a plug and lay it on the head to verify it is sparking. Then if you have spark, you know where to look next(fuel).

I guess I should have asked, when the car dies and wont start, will the starter rotate the engine and it just wont hit? Or does it do NOTHING?

1WILLY1

iTrader: (9)

wow this is a real tough one.

im soprry to hear u replaced almost everything and it still isnt working.

the only advice i can offer is once i had a mystery problem veryt similar to this one and it turned out to be an issue with my cam sensor.

try getting your cam sensor and crank sensor checked out or if u have the know how to test them yourself your in good shape.

this is most likely a sensor issue i would think

DRFT103

iTrader: (3)

The terminals I was talking about jumping are TE and E1, which are the terminals you jump to set the timing with a timing gun, that's what I was wondering. But yes, when it dies, It will still turn over. just won't start back up for a while.

as far as CPS, I'm NA-T, I don't think I have a CPS, cam/crank position sensor, how does the GE read cam or crank position? maybe the problem lies there?

1WILLY1

iTrader: (9)

im not a professional or anything but im quite sure your car has a cam and crank positoin sensor forsure.

if you havent checked these i would bet money that is where your problem lies.

the 1uz has two cam sensors and one crack sensor and i think your engine has one of each and both of them can cause these sorts of issues

please check them out and report back

DRFT103

iTrader: (3)

to my understanding the GE doesnt have a CPS because it has a distributor, this is why when building a 1.5JZ with a GE block, you need a GTE oil pump because it has a spot to add a CPS built in. I think the dist reads the cam position.

lexforlife

iTrader: (7)

dizzy reads the cam position and down behind the crank pulley is the crank position sensor although both are needed engine more relies on position on cam vs crank

DRFT103

iTrader: (3)

So what do you guys think the chance of it being the crank position sensor is? because that's the only thing I haven't changed out....

1WILLY1

iTrader: (9)

im going to say it is a 90% chance it is either your cam or crank sensor giving u these issues.

99SC42

iTrader: (44)

You don't have a crank position sensor at the oil pump, only 98 +has it and the tt MK4.
Your ecu get the crank and cam signal from the distributor!! it sound to me like your timing is off.
Get a timing light hook it up to #1 wire and start the car and check the timing and then loosen about 2 turns the 12mm nut that bolts the distributor to the head then you can adjust the timing from there by turning the distributor back and forth ....

You can jump E1 and T1 and see what codes pulls up