BunthaKev

I'd say replace the belt and tensioners with the water pump while you have the motor out unless you know the history of the car. And the water pump should spin freely without any belt tension on it.

Matt300ZXT

iTrader: (2)

I was able to tear it down some more today to get even closer to the timing belt swap. Pulled the plugs, there are 3 different brands. Like 5 Autolite, 1 Bosch, and 2 NGK or something like that. The belt still looks great everywhere, just patches of rust on it where it's been sitting in the same place for so long. I put a socket on the water pump and it moves with some pressure, so it's definitely froze up, but the engine spins over with ease. I shot some Marvel Mystery Oil in the cylinders and turned it over a full 720 degrees just to help get some juice in there since it's been sitting a while. All the marks on the timing cover/crank pulley, and cam gears with the raised marks on the covers behind them line up, so that's a good sign

Now I just need to buy the timing belt/water pump kit, and figure out how I'm going to break the crank pulley bolt loose since there's no frame rail to rest a breaker bar against...I'm sure I'll figure something out though.

-Samurai-

iTrader: (1)

It looks ok, but will it be in the long run? No idea. Id replace it and your good for another 90,000 miles

Matt300ZXT

iTrader: (2)

I'm checking Ebay and Partsgeek.com and building a front end "rebuild" kit. Going with a timing belt/water pump kit for $142.79 with free shipping for Japan made belt (209 tooth), tensioner, and idler, probably NTK or whatever I've seen most kits have and an Aisin water pump. I'm going with Partsgeek to get the 2 camshaft seals, crankshaft seal, and hydraulic tensioner for the belt, since none of the kits on Ebay seem to come with those.

Also, are ALL belts made for the 1uz in these kits rated at 90k miles? Is that what will classify them as OEM or are some belts rated at 60k like traditional timing belts?