Aem ems gte to ge
#16
Lead Lap
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1100-gte into ge just plug it in wire up your map and iat sensors then load up the 1101 cal file onto your ems and it should be good from what ive researched i'll have the ems next week and will update then
#17
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so far not bad had a few issues since i didn't go download the manual and read it first but it seems to function fine just a bunch of tricky small things to do like setting the tps and the o2 readout was on methanol even thou gasoline was highlighted... took me a good while to figure out that you need to set it to gasoline then hit apply (duno why its not set as gas in the first place)
wiring wise the sockets are identical all you need to do is wire in the map sensor and iat sensor to the appropriate pins and i wired in my wideband.
loaded up the 1101 cal file and edit out all the small details and settings i still need to sync timining tomorrow morning
will update some more later
wiring wise the sockets are identical all you need to do is wire in the map sensor and iat sensor to the appropriate pins and i wired in my wideband.
loaded up the 1101 cal file and edit out all the small details and settings i still need to sync timining tomorrow morning
will update some more later
#18
hey, anymore update on this broda805?
my understanding is, like you said, just wire in the ait and map sensors to the old maf plug and load the 1101 cal file. possibly some work for the ac to work? is it really this simple? do you need to switch pins or anything at all?
my understanding is, like you said, just wire in the ait and map sensors to the old maf plug and load the 1101 cal file. possibly some work for the ac to work? is it really this simple? do you need to switch pins or anything at all?
#19
Lexus Champion
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there is no swapping of pins, just wire up map sensor , IAT sensor, and your wideband if you have one. AC works with the right settings you can find online, AEM updated the software a long time ago so we dont have to swap any pins. i just posted the settings in another thread.
#20
Lexus Test Driver
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Got a question for you guys.
If I ran AEM v2 6101 box on my na-t and then later down the road decided to do a full aristo GTE swap non vvti, would the GTE swap be identical if you were wiring in a stock TT ecu? The same harness wiring adjustments needed or is anything else necessary?
I know the 6100 cal file would probably need to be loaded, and the settings would have to be adjusted, but other than that the wiring should be the same as if you are using a stock GTE ecu correct?
If I ran AEM v2 6101 box on my na-t and then later down the road decided to do a full aristo GTE swap non vvti, would the GTE swap be identical if you were wiring in a stock TT ecu? The same harness wiring adjustments needed or is anything else necessary?
I know the 6100 cal file would probably need to be loaded, and the settings would have to be adjusted, but other than that the wiring should be the same as if you are using a stock GTE ecu correct?
#21
Lead Lap
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i would think so, there isn't much difference between the 2 harnesses besides some are used on the gte that are not used in the ge but just as long as they lead to where they should go i don't see a problem, unless theres something special about the v2 that makes it application specific?
and oh yeah update to this, the v1 box works perfect, at 10psi with the S362 i ran out of fuel topping out at 341whp...
next is port/polished head, cams, head gasket, arp studs, ffim, 550cc inj, all going in by end of summer..
and oh yeah update to this, the v1 box works perfect, at 10psi with the S362 i ran out of fuel topping out at 341whp...
next is port/polished head, cams, head gasket, arp studs, ffim, 550cc inj, all going in by end of summer..
Last edited by broda805; 05-17-11 at 03:52 PM.
#23
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17psi safe for a TT head gasket? i been searching and been getting a lot of mixed responses. due to different size turbos, this, that, etc for example people with 60-1 turbo it would be fine for ~20psi but i get other responses with T67 at 17psi and the S366 outflows the T67 slightly so does that mean i should stick around the 17psi range?
ideally i'd want to boost in the 18-19 range but not sure if its safe
ideally i'd want to boost in the 18-19 range but not sure if its safe
Last edited by broda805; 05-17-11 at 10:18 PM.
#24
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With TT headgasket my CR was still ~9.8 because the head was resurfaced 14 psi it made 476 with TT cams, billet 6765 .81ar, Ebay manifold, Tial 44, stock intake manifold, stock fuel rail, stock fuel rail, 1600cc,5 bar map, R154 ACT stage 5, 3.92 Rear end.
Then we street tune at 19 psi , blew the HG at 24 psi from OB.
I ran HKS 2mm on my car once a little slower to spool which i like CR was around 9.x.x not sure exactly but still pushed 21 psi safely.
With your setup the tt headgasket 19 psi should be safe
Then we street tune at 19 psi , blew the HG at 24 psi from OB.
I ran HKS 2mm on my car once a little slower to spool which i like CR was around 9.x.x not sure exactly but still pushed 21 psi safely.
With your setup the tt headgasket 19 psi should be safe
#25
Lexus Test Driver
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Just remember that the headgasket is a like a fuse, it has enough give to where if detonation occurs or something isn't right it'll pop before other solid internals pop.
On pump gas I always had to be more conservative on timing and gradually increase boost and watch A/F's at each increment. Because of the higher CR, it will be harder to run higher boost pressures and timing on 93oct, throw some meth in the mix and I'm sure 25psi is attainable. Also, knock can come on more depending on the gear, always tune with a longer gear like 3rd or 4th because it's a longer condition under WOT. 1st and 2nd gear would be perfect and then 3rd would be prone to knock due to built up temps.
On pump gas I always had to be more conservative on timing and gradually increase boost and watch A/F's at each increment. Because of the higher CR, it will be harder to run higher boost pressures and timing on 93oct, throw some meth in the mix and I'm sure 25psi is attainable. Also, knock can come on more depending on the gear, always tune with a longer gear like 3rd or 4th because it's a longer condition under WOT. 1st and 2nd gear would be perfect and then 3rd would be prone to knock due to built up temps.
#26
im going to revive this thread to ask a couple questions and possibly add a bit of info.
this is the wiring that seems to be the consensus when using the gte box on a ge
AEM MAP SENSOR WIRING:
RED wire to pin B-41
BLACK wire to pin B-65
GREEN wire to pin B-62
IAT SENSOR WIRING:
The IAT Sensor has 2 wires, it doesnt matter which way you hook it up as there is no polarity on the Sensor.
It is cleaner for you to wire it in to your MAF PLUG which you are no longer using.
Tap one wire into PIN#3 on your MAF PLUG (PINK/BLUE) (or ECU pin B-45)
Tap the other wire into PIN#4 on your MAF PLUG (BROWN/BLACK) (or ECU pin B-65)
my questions are does this mean that two wires will be spliced into the brwn/black(B-65) wire?
also does anyone know the colors of the other 2 wires youll be joining for the map sensor? (B-41, B-62)
this is the wiring that seems to be the consensus when using the gte box on a ge
AEM MAP SENSOR WIRING:
RED wire to pin B-41
BLACK wire to pin B-65
GREEN wire to pin B-62
IAT SENSOR WIRING:
The IAT Sensor has 2 wires, it doesnt matter which way you hook it up as there is no polarity on the Sensor.
It is cleaner for you to wire it in to your MAF PLUG which you are no longer using.
Tap one wire into PIN#3 on your MAF PLUG (PINK/BLUE) (or ECU pin B-45)
Tap the other wire into PIN#4 on your MAF PLUG (BROWN/BLACK) (or ECU pin B-65)
my questions are does this mean that two wires will be spliced into the brwn/black(B-65) wire?
also does anyone know the colors of the other 2 wires youll be joining for the map sensor? (B-41, B-62)
#28
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im going to revive this thread to ask a couple questions and possibly add a bit of info.
this is the wiring that seems to be the consensus when using the gte box on a ge
AEM MAP SENSOR WIRING:
RED wire to pin B-41
BLACK wire to pin B-65
GREEN wire to pin B-62
IAT SENSOR WIRING:
The IAT Sensor has 2 wires, it doesnt matter which way you hook it up as there is no polarity on the Sensor.
It is cleaner for you to wire it in to your MAF PLUG which you are no longer using.
Tap one wire into PIN#3 on your MAF PLUG (PINK/BLUE) (or ECU pin B-45)
Tap the other wire into PIN#4 on your MAF PLUG (BROWN/BLACK) (or ECU pin B-65)
my questions are does this mean that two wires will be spliced into the brwn/black(B-65) wire?
also does anyone know the colors of the other 2 wires youll be joining for the map sensor? (B-41, B-62)
this is the wiring that seems to be the consensus when using the gte box on a ge
AEM MAP SENSOR WIRING:
RED wire to pin B-41
BLACK wire to pin B-65
GREEN wire to pin B-62
IAT SENSOR WIRING:
The IAT Sensor has 2 wires, it doesnt matter which way you hook it up as there is no polarity on the Sensor.
It is cleaner for you to wire it in to your MAF PLUG which you are no longer using.
Tap one wire into PIN#3 on your MAF PLUG (PINK/BLUE) (or ECU pin B-45)
Tap the other wire into PIN#4 on your MAF PLUG (BROWN/BLACK) (or ECU pin B-65)
my questions are does this mean that two wires will be spliced into the brwn/black(B-65) wire?
also does anyone know the colors of the other 2 wires youll be joining for the map sensor? (B-41, B-62)
Yes you can ,i ran mine like that worked great.
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