A/C question
04-09-11, 06:06 AM
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A/C question
I need to charge my system. I want to get some freeze 12. do I need to order it all online, or is it something I can buy locally? I am sure I will need the charge kit to go with it. my ac blows, only hot. fan works great, heat works, no blinking ac light.
04-09-11, 06:57 AM
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Just because the a/c light is not blinking does not necessarily mean your compressor is not toast. You should have the system diagnosed because recharging your system will not fix the problem; freon does not leak out for no reason. In any event you can have the system co edged to R134a, be careful charging the system yourself because you have to put your hand way down beside the engine with the engine running.
You should also have the system flushed if you are going to convert the freon.
You should also have the system flushed if you are going to convert the freon.
04-09-11, 08:57 AM
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Just because the a/c light is not blinking does not necessarily mean your compressor is not toast. You should have the system diagnosed because recharging your system will not fix the problem; freon does not leak out for no reason. In any event you can have the system co edged to R134a, be careful charging the system yourself because you have to put your hand way down beside the engine with the engine running.
You should also have the system flushed if you are going to convert the freon.
You should also have the system flushed if you are going to convert the freon.
Also, r12 is still available and will be more effective for an r12 system.
04-09-11, 10:17 AM
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Just like with an oil leak, you can add oil to the engine to make it full again but that won't fix the leak.
04-09-11, 11:41 AM
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if your loosing freon, recharge the system with dye freon and see where you have a leak. the lines that run under the radiator, and then comes up on the passenger side, usually gets corroded. mine were like that, and forget trying to get em new from the dealer, it'll be like $300 ea....i got some from the junkyard which had the same issue. so i cut the pitted/corroded section out, and had it welded back. wallah, i have A/C again.
Oh yea when you put it back together, get a pro to vacuum the system, and make sure your dryer works, or with the leak gone, your A/C wont be as cold as it should be.
Oh yea when you put it back together, get a pro to vacuum the system, and make sure your dryer works, or with the leak gone, your A/C wont be as cold as it should be.
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04-09-11, 01:48 PM
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agreed. If it is leaking down in a month or less, that is much different than say over 3yrs though. I guess the OP might not know.
04-09-11, 01:54 PM
#11
http://www.automotivehelper.com/topic708493.htm
I would go with r414b hotshot over freeze 12. Do not bother downgrading *coughtconvertingcough* to r134a.
Originally Posted by Blue Bowtie
Not to argue much, but either one (R12 or R414B) performs better than R134A. The latent heat capacity of R134 is not even close to R12, and R134A system pressures are certainly higher. To be equal, an R134A system really requires an evaporator area about 30% larger than an equivalent R12 system. It will cool, but as ambient temperatures rise, it loses cooling efficiency very fast. In other words, when you REALLY want cooling, R134A systems start to fall on their faces unless they are sized appropriately. Most people who retrofit only change the expansion control (TEV or orifice tube array), charge fittings, and system oil, and never bother sizing the evaporator properly. Then again, it's just a vehicle, and you've got windows.
04-09-11, 06:27 PM
#12
Scott, I know in my area you need a license to buy freeze 12. A mechanic friend would get me a can every spring for the old Cutlass I used to have. In my situation I could get by with it since I only needed one can a year, if your leak is much worse you might as well convert it or at least fix the system correctly. If you're losing refrigerant you are also losing compressor oil, you will eventually have to open the system to replace the lost oil.
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