lookEVO

iTrader: (1)

Good to hear, best bang for your buck.

Just about to hit a year with my car in its current shape and the only real issue I may need to address soon is that I would like to turn up the boost a bit since my turbo is so big... Ill need a new trans.

Contemplating sending a decent core to BL to have it built. Unless I could source all the stuff they do and do it myself.

lookEVO

iTrader: (1)

bryan767

iTrader: (6)

btw the safc wont make 700.. on a ge atleast those numbers are from a 2jzgte that runs 550cc stock injectors.. so 880 at 80% if your lucky. rule of thumb for a safc is 2x the stock injector size.. so 650cc is your max on that. and if you run 80% your looking at 520whp MAX. the safc is old school technology. it works but it runs like **** (can tune by 100rpms or less). i suggest going mapecu if your trying to save some money before going full standalone. 347 is good if your on stock injectors.. (however your maxing them out and you will more then likley detonate that motor if your actually running that much power through them) but that motor is capable of alot more, especially if you put a GTE head on it.

lookEVO

iTrader: (1)

Well considering i tuned it, I have knock readings and i know this car, its fine.

I have to PULL fuel at full boost, i can look at the injector duty cycle right on the injectors (i know how) and see that they are well within a tolerable range.

bryan767

iTrader: (6)

LOL, congratulations you can tune a safc. you understand what an up and down arrow mean. what other cars have you "tuned" and on what?

your still playing with fire with anything over 80%.

Also there is a difference between put together and built.

lookEVO

iTrader: (1)

Now you mad too.

You have PM. Knock off the drama.

bryan767

iTrader: (6)

im just trying to help someone who has been misinformed on what safe injector duty cycle means. as i saw its your daily, id assume youd want it to last.

lookEVO

iTrader: (1)

I know what it is, considering Im a professional mechanic and have been for well over a decade, specializing in building and tuning cars. My dyno video posted was done at my shop with me in the driver seat.

It is my daily, ive driven for well over a year with zero issues related to boost. I even changed my plugs about a week ago and noticed that they looked really good, no sign of detonation or lean issues. I have a wideband and i have a knock signal.

Not to mention, if i ever get around to it, Im swapping out the MAF for a map. Im just busy with customer builds and school.

tre2k

nice, i was thinking of going XS too. how long do you think it took you to install everything?

lookEVO

iTrader: (1)

In total, somewhere around 50 or 60 hours, but that was with me doing everything a couple times, fitting everything precise and running everything so it didnt look hacked together or slapped on. I didnt want to have to modify any of the hard parts whatsoever so I took the extra time to make sure everything went in as I got it.

It came out to my satisfaction and still runs like a champ after a year, 22k miles or so. i forget howmuch I drove it this weekend.

gdoutlex

iTrader: (4)

Quick questions bro, how many o2 sensors does ur car have? On my 97 I have 3 and wondering if I have to run any o2 sim with my aem FIC? Also how are you reading knock values? Thanks in advance

lexforlife

iTrader: (7)

relying soley on oem knock sensors to pull and advance timing is just asking for trouble.. and timing in a ge na-t setup is critical to survival

lookEVO

iTrader: (1)

Well i get almost no knock and i have checked. I also use the knock mod on an SAFC.

Youre car sounds great and all, but it doesnt sound like you tuned it, so thats where we are different.

lookEVO

iTrader: (1)

3.

beats me. You can run them piggied off your wideband if you want

BlakOnBlak

Car looks great. Shop + Dyno = GREAT BUILD
Would be interesting to see what you would do with a 1jz.