Curious is anyone has had a similar issue as this. While driving, when I turn the blinker on, for a split second the cd player will cut out. Also, my clock has reset itself twice now.

It seems like it may be a back ground or short somewhere. The battery terminals are completely clean and have a good connection. Any thoughts on this? Anyone experience something like this? What are some grounds I should check?

Thanks.

 

Your blinkers work on a relay...hence that clicking noise.

Pull the relay and swap with another in the car...if that fixes it...then you are set.

Otherwise, you may have a hot wire shorting out on the blinkers...maybe a wire is pinched to the body...I doubt it thou...this would have blown a fuse..

MW

 

Thanks pcmw,
I'll check out the relay and while I'm there, I might aswell check the fuses out.

I'll keep you posted.

 

I've checked the relays and fuses on the car, and it still seems to be having the same issue.

When driving and I hit the brakes, the brake light going on seems to even cause the electrical system to cut for a split second. Seems to me, when there is an additional load put on the electrical system, it wants to cut out briefly. What could be causing this???

Any help is appreciated.

Electrical was never my strong suit

 

My guess is that if this happens under braking...then something is rolling forward and causing your electrical system to fail. You should do a cursive exam of all the contact points in the engine compartment and focus on anything that is lose or shifts weight front to back. Could even be your battery shifting inside because of a loose plate.

Good luck

MW

 

MW,
Its not due to me braking, its due to the brake light illuminating and pulling more of a current. I can be sitting still, and tap the brake, or turn the signal on and it will still cut out.

I'm going to have to inspect all of the grounds
Any other ideas?

Thanks

 

large black, negative, one goes to a grounding point near the starter motor and from there somewhere on teh back of the engine, usually, there is a fairly large ground cable from the engine block to the firewall. Check both ends of this latter one.

Large red one, positive, also goes directly to the starter motor, ONLY.

Supplimental positive wiring may originate at, or near, the positive battery post or at the positive starter terminal, sometimes both. So find and check both connection ends of any supplimental positive voltage source wiring.

I have seen a few cars with supplimental negative wiring, sometimes from an extension of the main negative post connection.

Just recently our Aerostar quite on us on the freeway and it turned out to be a negative return line form the fuel pump directly to the battery and with an inline fuse. Fuel pumps typically draw fairly high starting currents which I assume was the reason for this.

Even if new, it is also remotely possible tha you simply have a bad battery.

 

Well the electrical issue has been resolved on the car, but not without a major scare!
I changed the plugs put it all back together, replaced the antenna mast, and went to start the car, and BOOM!!!!!!!!!!
Sounded like an M80 went off, I had the hood open at the time.
I saw black pieces of plastic fly up into the air, and then some smoke from the engine area. My heart sunk, I thought the motor was gone. I got out of the car and the battery was in pieces! The entire battery exploded. The top was gone, the sides were cracked. Thank god I got any acid, that may have done some damage, all cleaned up in time.

I've only had one other battery explode on me like that before, however, that was when I was a mechanic, putting myself through college. Talk about scary!

Anyways, long story short, the battery looked dry and the cells had some serious issues internally. This was a Lexus installed battery as well. Now a Diehard resides there

By the way, plugs were much easier than I thought.