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Who's The Top Dog SC? 1UZ vs 2JZ
06-28-11, 03:10 AM
#31
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ok yeah theres a certain point where a aluminum block will need to sleeved but who here is going to go that far into a build?
that is a unrealistic amount of power for people on here unless your one of the few that are doing it.
we should just make an average how much power you have thread... were not talking numbers over like 600hp right now.... again not many are doing it, it cost to much so just throw that out.
EDIT: theres really no argument a v8 will always make more power if money is not a issue. in the 2jz's case it will make A LOT more power with the amount of money that people realistically spend day to day doing the common 'swap'
that is a unrealistic amount of power for people on here unless your one of the few that are doing it.
we should just make an average how much power you have thread... were not talking numbers over like 600hp right now.... again not many are doing it, it cost to much so just throw that out.
EDIT: theres really no argument a v8 will always make more power if money is not a issue. in the 2jz's case it will make A LOT more power with the amount of money that people realistically spend day to day doing the common 'swap'
Last edited by iridebmx; 06-28-11 at 03:15 AM.
06-28-11, 03:25 AM
#32
Also have you thought about the practicalities of going FI on the UZ?
The first and most pressing issue is compression. 10:1 for OBD-I, 10.4 for OBD-II, 10.5:1 for VVT-i. You can't run that much boost on pump gas without the engine exploding.
Or what about the super/turbo method? A roots type supercharger would be good for high boost but the intercooler or lack their off really defeats it's advantages. Centrifugal superchargers are weaker turbochargers. As for turbochargers where are you going to mount them? Underneath the car so the air filter gets dirty fast and you're afraid to drive over a puddle. Inside the car where you'll have to relocate the fuse box and battery and make working on the engine increasingly difficult. Does adding a giant heat source next to your radiator sound like a bad idea to anyone else?
You see zero FI options for the 1UZ because they really just make 0 sense. Low power a 1.5UZ VVT-i is the best bang for your buck and high boost the JZs really shine.
The first and most pressing issue is compression. 10:1 for OBD-I, 10.4 for OBD-II, 10.5:1 for VVT-i. You can't run that much boost on pump gas without the engine exploding.
Or what about the super/turbo method? A roots type supercharger would be good for high boost but the intercooler or lack their off really defeats it's advantages. Centrifugal superchargers are weaker turbochargers. As for turbochargers where are you going to mount them? Underneath the car so the air filter gets dirty fast and you're afraid to drive over a puddle. Inside the car where you'll have to relocate the fuse box and battery and make working on the engine increasingly difficult. Does adding a giant heat source next to your radiator sound like a bad idea to anyone else?
You see zero FI options for the 1UZ because they really just make 0 sense. Low power a 1.5UZ VVT-i is the best bang for your buck and high boost the JZs really shine.
06-28-11, 03:26 AM
#33
I personally voted for the VVT-I 400. I am curious to know how come nobody ever tryed to do an N/A build of the stock GE motor? The common excuse I've been hearing is "just get a turbo and call it a day, youll never get anywhere near the same power without it" I believe it is more than likely to get in the 250whp range without spending a ridiculous amount of money.
06-28-11, 03:31 AM
#34
I personally voted for the VVT-I 400. I am curious to know how come nobody ever tryed to do an N/A build of the stock GE motor? The common excuse I've been hearing is "just get a turbo and call it a day, youll never get anywhere near the same power without it" I believe it is more than likely to get in the 250whp range without spending a ridiculous amount of money.
Realistically how much boost would you need to run to add a 1/3rd extra horsepower to the OBD-I 1UZ? I think more than you could do safely on pump gasoline.
Last edited by account2x; 06-28-11 at 03:36 AM.
06-28-11, 03:33 AM
#35
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what is the stock compression on a 2jz-ge? isn't it like 10:2:1 or something?
people change the head gaskets with like 2-3mm HG's on the Ge builds lowering the compression into the mid-high 8's right? why can't the same be done for the ob1 1uz?
and i have no idea hw much boost a 1uz needs to make 450rwhp... never done it! but hasn't it been done?
im honestly not the right person to make this argument, i dont know much haha so if im wrong just tell me. but we are heading away from the actual topic by the way
people change the head gaskets with like 2-3mm HG's on the Ge builds lowering the compression into the mid-high 8's right? why can't the same be done for the ob1 1uz?
and i have no idea hw much boost a 1uz needs to make 450rwhp... never done it! but hasn't it been done?
im honestly not the right person to make this argument, i dont know much haha so if im wrong just tell me. but we are heading away from the actual topic by the way
Last edited by iridebmx; 06-28-11 at 03:38 AM.
06-28-11, 03:44 AM
#36
what is the stock compression on a 2jz-ge? isn't it like 10:2:1 or something?
people change the head gaskets with like 2-3mm HG's on the Ge builds lowering the compression into the mid-high 8's right? why can't the same be done for the ob1 1uz?
and i have no idea hw much boost a 1uz needs to make 450rwhp... never done it! but hasn't it been done?
im honestly not the right person to make this argument, i dont know much haha so if im wrong just tell me. but we are heading away from the actual topic by the way
people change the head gaskets with like 2-3mm HG's on the Ge builds lowering the compression into the mid-high 8's right? why can't the same be done for the ob1 1uz?
and i have no idea hw much boost a 1uz needs to make 450rwhp... never done it! but hasn't it been done?
im honestly not the right person to make this argument, i dont know much haha so if im wrong just tell me. but we are heading away from the actual topic by the way
10:1 and 10:5 for the VVT-i.
You can drop the compression to anything you want depending on the headgasket thickness but headgasket thickness is no replacement for correct pistons. If you drop the compression too much, i don't know, something bad happens, like the engine gets unresponsive or something.
From what I am aware off there is no headgasket option for the 1UZ and the OBD-I 1UZ with the thicker rods aren't forged so they are still weak. KC95SC400 made 400hp or around there off and the engine blew.
06-28-11, 03:50 AM
#38
An OBD-I 1UZ makes 210rwhp, a 98 VVT-i 240rwhp and with intake and exhaust 270rwhp. If you add a 2UZ 4.7 block with the VVT-i head I'd say you'd be easily over 300rwhp and all you'd need is a simple air-fuel ratio controller. The first issue with an NA build is finding a 1998 through 2000 400 and and the second camshaft availability or the lack there off. Even so the cost to do such a build just makes no sense given that it'll be close to a 2JZ swap.
Im referring to the SC300 though, i mentioned the Stock GE
06-28-11, 04:01 AM
#39
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10:1 and 10:5 for the VVT-i.
You can drop the compression to anything you want depending on the headgasket thickness but headgasket thickness is no replacement for correct pistons. If you drop the compression too much, i don't know, something bad happens, like the engine gets unresponsive or something.
From what I am aware off there is no headgasket option for the 1UZ and the OBD-I 1UZ with the thicker rods aren't forged so they are still weak. KC95SC400 made 400hp or around there off and the engine blew.
You can drop the compression to anything you want depending on the headgasket thickness but headgasket thickness is no replacement for correct pistons. If you drop the compression too much, i don't know, something bad happens, like the engine gets unresponsive or something.
From what I am aware off there is no headgasket option for the 1UZ and the OBD-I 1UZ with the thicker rods aren't forged so they are still weak. KC95SC400 made 400hp or around there off and the engine blew.
1uz engine parts^
06-28-11, 04:02 AM
#40
*Where are you going to mount the turbos?
-Underneath the car so the air filter gets dirty fast and you're afraid to drive over a puddle?
-Inside the car where you'll have to relocate the fuse box and battery and make working on the engine increasingly difficult?
*People run turbo-timers to help the turbos cool down after shut off and now they'll be right to your hot radiator which will also block flow and reduce efficiency. Hope your A/C will still work.
*Oil lines or the coolant lines to for the turbos, where are you going to get those from?
*To get that kind of nice percent drivability will almost certainly require an aftermarket computer and precision tuning. $1,790.00 from your link.
Last edited by account2x; 06-28-11 at 04:13 AM.
06-28-11, 04:10 AM
#41
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What about the logistics?
*Where are you going to mount the turbos?
-Underneath the car so the air filter gets dirty fast and you're afraid to drive over a puddle?
-Inside the car where you'll have to relocate the fuse box and battery and make working on the engine increasingly difficult?
*People run turbo-timers to help the turbos cool down after shut off and now they'll be right to your hot radiator which will also block flow and reduce efficiency.
*Oil lines or the coolant lines to for the turbos, where are you going to get those from?
*Don't forget to get that kind of nice percent drivability will almost certainly require an aftermarket computer and precision tuning. $1,790.00 from your link.
*Where are you going to mount the turbos?
-Underneath the car so the air filter gets dirty fast and you're afraid to drive over a puddle?
-Inside the car where you'll have to relocate the fuse box and battery and make working on the engine increasingly difficult?
*People run turbo-timers to help the turbos cool down after shut off and now they'll be right to your hot radiator which will also block flow and reduce efficiency.
*Oil lines or the coolant lines to for the turbos, where are you going to get those from?
*Don't forget to get that kind of nice percent drivability will almost certainly require an aftermarket computer and precision tuning. $1,790.00 from your link.
and yes you will need super fan to cool the engine bay but those are the consequences one must face. also have you not already seen where people mount the singles on the 1uz? it works out. also everyone and their mother who turbos their car moves the battery to the back so yea thats just a necessity there...
its hard to turbo the 1uz!!!!!! we know this! thats why not many do it! now were back to the start and basically talking about the lack of after market parts. also the computer you pointed out is for a 2jz... but im sure a piggyback would work fine for a budget 1uz turbo build. your pointing out things that the 2jz faces too
06-28-11, 05:06 AM
#43
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hahah no...... if thats what you've been thinking of this whole time than wow i cant believe i just argued with you...
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...onversion.html
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...onversion.html
Last edited by iridebmx; 06-28-11 at 05:15 AM.
06-28-11, 05:21 AM
#44
hahah no...... if thats what you've been thinking of this whole time than wow...
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...onversion.html
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...onversion.html
Read that thread you'll see he has had nothing but problems with hesitation, idle issues and broken parts. From his signature he hasn't got a perfectly good steerable build.
