henrynguyen

This is the Dyno-test result from my 96 SC300. Mod are: (Automatic fan kit, K&N Air Filter + a little trick to the air mass sensor and Breather. Total $223.00 dollars = 248hp). I also had ZEX nitrous installed with 50hp spray nozzle. The result including my cheap mod adds up to 262hp which make me unhappy (maybe something wrong with my installation). I erase the result from the 50hp shoot from the sheet and sold the kit for my friend today.

Sorry I remove the pic due to many disadvatages. I will post a new one next week with my new mod ideas.

Thank You

DIrEctQL

I noticed a line was erased from the graph. That line looks like a torque line. Horsepower and torque should cross at around 5250 rpm. Something is wrong with this dyno.

Bean

iTrader: (1)

no, thats only when the torque and horsepower use the same scale on their readings, which they don't in this case

what is the automatic fan kit? and how does it free up power?

and what little trick did you do with the MAF?

oh and the motor can handle hella more than 50hp shot

DIrEctQL

Given that the graph is true, however if you notice it's been photo chopped. Notice the torque curve was erased and something was done with the labels of the graph. Notice the graph's colors have been inversed also.

As far as the mods, he probably has electric fans and raised the signal from the MAF (same as AFC, but more risky).

henrynguyen

The erase line wasn't the torgue line. I was the 50hp shoot of NOS. When NOS kicked in, my engine function improperly because of NOS kit wasn’t installed correctly. If leave that line, your guys will think my mod is crazy gain of hp at low RPM but add up to wrong hp. Without NOS 248hp, with NOS 248+50NOS= 298hp but I only have 262. I have a different kit on order. I will try it again to see if it work.
AFM Trick:
I bypass the AFM air measure for air/fuel mixture by adding additional air filter after the AFM. At full throttle, NOS kick in and give me 262hp at around 2.5-5.0RPM and dropped quickly after that. The trick on AFM gives me additional HP like the way NOS work but it is not very safe for daily driven car.
Automatic Fan Kit:
Replace your clutch fan with automatic fan kit 16” will give you additional hp and save gas. The clutch fan take away between 10-15hp from your engine. The automatic fan kits are very popular, so you can purchase the kit from most performance shops or even at auto part stores.

DaveGS4

iTrader: (2)

Henry (or whomever may know this):

So when a nitrous company advertises a '50 shot' like you've got, are they talking about 50 rear wheel horsepower or 50 at the crank? I'd always assume it was HP at the crank... I'm assuming you're doing a rear wheel dyno?

If you're getting 248 RWHP on an SC300 NA with minor mods, that sounds pretty damn good to me! I've only had a couple of runs better than that in my GS4, 248 rwhp is right what my average is (so far ) w 306 tq.

henrynguyen

No no no not at the wheel. It is at the crank. I think I better but metal head gasket before trying to put 100shot in this coming week.

DaveGS4

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the quick reply/confirmation Henry. So the dynos you are doing on your engine are at the crank on your SC?


mmmm 100 shot

DIrEctQL

Okay, I understand. Sorry for the mess. 248 hp sound right with these mods.

Frankinaustin

Henry, can you explain that air flow meter trick to me again? i didn't totally understand what you did and how i can do it on my 93 sc400. How does it improve hp? better flow or richer fuel on top end?

Thx, frank

JKAG

Henry

two questions

1) do you know what you're getting at the wheels?
I also have a '96 and with my mod's (see my sig) I only get 185 at the wheels. I've guestimated that I have 240-250 at the crank

2) have you tried driving around after tuning and then re-dynoing?
I've noticed when I put in the SAFC that the OBDII seems to "take away some of the gains" I've yet to really test this out by resetting the ECU and re-dynoing

By the way, where are you in Minnesota, I'm just outside of Minneapolis.

DIrEctQL

That's because OBDII computers do timing retard with S-AFC, there for the reason why I want to switch to something like Greddy E-manage.

JKAG

DIrEctQL

So you're saying that when I added the SAFC the OBDII retard cancelled out the timing adjusment made by the G-force chip.

That fits since I made 185 with G-force alone and 185 with G-force and SAFC.

God! I love my car but I wish I had known to get a '95

DIrEctQL

I don't know exacly, but when I got my S-AFC tuned I dynoed close to 200 rwhp, then when I came back I dynoed 148 rwhp. Reset the ECU and dynoed about 190 rwhp. Clint (SC300TT) said it's a timing rethard and people with Supras have the same problem so who knows.

Chris

henrynguyen

I also have a 93 SC400 but I did not do anything with it. On your SC400, you have an adjustable AFM. The screw on the AFM can be adjusted for additional fuel/air mixture but I have not test out my SC400 yet so I’m not sure. On my SC300, I use the existing hose which run from my engine valve cover to the intake hose (if you look at your intake hoses, you should see one (maybe two for sc400) of the small hose run into your valve cover (this is for your valve breather). I unplug the hose and I added a breather (small air filter for the valve breahter) and the other end of the intake hose I also add a small air filter(this filter will trick your AFM air measure). At anytime, your AFM sensor measure how much air was input and then send message to your computer telling it to supply fuel. At full throttle your computer will stop supply fuel at certain amount of fuel and air mixture (this is factory setup). The additional filter (small filter or breather) will help supply some air. So when your AFM sensor read the air pass by (at full throttle) it will not be correct because your additional filter supply some air. By the time it read max factory setup, your computer already supply more fuel than it supposed to be. Therefore, you gain some hp. This setup works exactly like FCD (Fuel Cut Defencer) but more risk.