so it's a stud right? there's good amount of stud sticking out of the head right?

you have two choices...
(btw don't use a vice grip unless it's last ditch effort)
1 - screw two nuts on the stud. tighten the two nuts together (very tight). once it's tight enough you can try and use a wrench and back off the bottom nut. use a crow's foot wrench.

2 - stud removers...


the stud should be strong enough to withstand the two methods without breaking.

like someone else mentioned...don't drill out the allen head just yet. worse case weld an allen key on.

 

Have you guys ever pulled one of these heads? Unless the GE is different than the GTE, the bolts are buried deep in the head. There is JUST enough room to squeeze an allen/hex socket in there. No way are you reaching in there and grabbing anything with anything.

 

I did this same method with my motor on the engine stand as well.

Op you might even be spending more time trying to get it out with the motor in your car. Once you get it done go with arp head studs its save you this headache and money from buying new head bolts. $20 a piece it can be a pretty penny.

 

thanks for all the responses guys.

I used the biggest allen key we have to get the head studs out haha.

we're going to try and hammer it in and see if that will work, i tried this earlier, but doing it by yourself is a pita. So hopefully it will work.

And like someone said earlier, there is literally almost NO room at all in the head to fiddle around. my fingers don't fit in there, heck i dropped a screw in it, and i can't get the *#(!er out, until I get the Head off.

 

freaking great.. soo nothing has worked at all today.. drill is too big to fit back there to try and drill out a reverse lock.. wouldnt matter bc the head bolt is stripped so badly, the bits we have to reverse thread it aren't big enough..

So i'm going medieval on its a$$

I got a smaller drill that's designed to grind away.. so I put the grinder inside the bolt head and im grinding away the head of the *#(! thing.. eventually.. the top of the bolt will be gone, and then we can pull the head off and use vice grips to get the rest of the head bolt out of the engine block.. this is RIDICULOUS!!!

 

you couldnt get a bigger hex on it??

 

No, doesn't matter anymore tho..


Bc I jsut grinded the piece of crap down to almost nothing then we pried the head off the block and broke the top of the head bolt off. so need less to say, the head is finally off!!!

 

glad you finally got it off! are you boosting your car or just replacing a blown head gasket? if it is in your budget, and time i would upgrade to ARP main studs

 

LOL nice work man. If you do get ARP studs, getting the head down over them with the washers is a total PITA. I think next time I may just lay the head on the block and then screw the studs in with the head in place. At any rate, may as well go ARP since stockers will cost about the same and have less clamping force.

 

I used a 'easy out screw extractor' coupe of times when I worked on planes. It worked great. May not be good enough for this job though but look it up.

 

yeah, im thinking just ARP now haha. I just want to get the car back up and running, but I may just upgrade parts of it for later on down the road.

I'm taking the head tomorrow to a machine shop.

We're gonna have him vacuum test it and check the deck and make sure its not warped.

If all looks good, i'll prob see how much a hot tank, port and polish all are and go from there.

 

Good job getting the head off, way to persevere.

 

haha thanks man. I was so pissed off bout the whole thing.

good news tho!

took the head to the machine shop yesterday

he hot tanked it, vaccum tested it, and decked it
all for $80

and its completely fine!

 

When you go arp make sure you put the washers in before you put the screws in thee will be no space to put the washers in after youve put the studs on.