I have been searching for an image and have found conflicting info as the kit they sell says 92-96 but I am 98% sure they are all the same?
Also there is no mention of upper control arms in the bushing set so anybody have any more info on this?

TIA.

 

daizen... search for them... im almost positive they have two different part numbers. 92-96 and 97+... check. gl

 

Haven't Daizen been out of business in a long time? Nobody have ever gotten anything from them in some time now...

Anyways, I just recently installed mine, bought it from Jegs.com, I had the same concern as yours upon ordering it but I tried my luck, the front sets and rear sets are both complete; for the upper and lower for front and for the upper, spindle and strut rod for the rears.

I have been wondering about this as well, I don't know why the poly's always say for '92-'96 when the suspension never changed, even if you check with the dealer the part numbers for '92-'00 SC's are all the same. I guess they just didn't know since most people looking to switch their bushings mostly have '92-'96 SC's...

 

So their kit is both front and rear? I looked a week or so ago and they had no pic which would have been a big help so yours was upper and lower and front and rear?

 

I'm sorry, the front set is a complete set for upper and lower control arms, and the rear set is also a complete set for the upper control arm, spindle and strut rod.

 

the set is not 100% complete its missing stuff. i have written about this kit in like 4 threads.

 

here u gopost 6
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-...-bushings.html

 

You must've not read the instructions when you installed it then. Because in the instructions it's clearly written. But no parts are missing with the Prothane set. I already installed mine so trust me. And if you did a little research before doing this, everybody that have done it, wether they used Daizen or Prothane there's no way you can remove the front lower control arm bushings without torching it. Even TM Engineering torches it so they can replace it, and he's an authorized reseller of Daizen. Lesson learned, whatever plans you have for your car, research first before doing it, I myself research first before doing anything but most of the time I still come up short, what more if you don't research.

I was gonna create a DIY thread on this when I did mine but ironically my waterproof Olympus digi-cam sucked in water while we were swimming so now I'm still saving until I can afford to buy a DSLR.

Torching it isn't really a big deal, once the old rubber catches fire all you need to do is keep on removing the burning rubber and keep forcing the metal and aluminum sleeves to come out, the fire will extinguish whenever you get the burning rubber removed but it's still hot enough to catch fire again by turning on the torch on it. You don't even have to clean it if you don't want to as long as you make sure that the rubber is completely torched in the inside walls.

 

i did search before doing it... lol... i didnt install them myself. i left the instructions with the mechanic and they pressed them out. THEY did not follow directions and therefore THEY bought me new control arms. im just saying im not the only one that happened to so for the diy'er im just warning before hand.

and my kit and instructions must have been wrong. becuase even my instructions say u have to use ur factory washers therefore the kit is not 100% complete. it only comes with the center washers for the upper controll arms. the lower control arms u have to use the outer washer(shell) and inner washer(screw guide).

 

Then it's actually the fault of the mechanic not the product. I believe the other guy you're talking about had the same exact thing happen to him, it was also the mechanics fault, I think I saw his thread about it and I thought it was you. You can't really expect mechanics to memorize everything about cars especially aftermarket parts.

When I bought it I wasn't really expecting any washers with it because all it said was bushing kit. I don't know, maybe it's just me on how I understand things. But yeah, to the OP, the only thing you need to expect not included is the inner sleeves for the lower control arm, you have to reuse the stock aluminum ones, which is again not a biggy.

 

I'm not sure about the interchangeability of the 92-96 and 97+, but if you're just asking about the thoroughness of the kit for both the fronts and rears, the prothane kits will change out every arm bushing there is on your car.

for the fronts, only 8 in total, 4 for the 2 uca's and 4 for the 2 lca's. The uca's are simple, a simple press or a torch will take it out.
but the lca's, you need to torch them, not press them b/c 1 of the inner sleeves, and both the outer sleeves will get re-used (i think, it's been a while)
The rears come with a lot more and have the traction rods (both the rod itself and the hub), the toe rods, the uca's and the lca's (and also for the strut to bolt onto the lca).

If you're gona diy and don't have a press, I used a propane torch to do every arm, and a sawzall to cut the sleeves in the rear uca's, rear traction rods, and rear hub (for the traction rods to bolt into), though the only actual rear arm I'm using is the LCA since the rest are solid/heim joint arms.