Okay... I guess it's my turn...
#16
Lexus Champion
iTrader: (12)
Your car looks awesome, first of all. I don't blame you for buying a new head. Nothing wrong with a good solid foundation to build from. I am not sure that you can convert to VVT-i, but I would not worry about doing that anyway as there is no need for it. Good luck with your build; it looks like you are starting off on the right foot.
#17
1JZ Single SC400
iTrader: (59)
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Alabama, Roll Tide!
Posts: 8,518
Likes: 0
Received 15 Likes
on
12 Posts
Man these cars are a money pit. I know from experience also. GL on your build, I am subscribed. Build it the way your goals and budget will allow. Some of us dont have tens of thousands of dollars lying around to put into a car.
I love the car color with the rims... SWEET!
I love the car color with the rims... SWEET!
#18
Lexus Champion
iTrader: (9)
GE non VVT-i heads go for < $100, a hot tank, deck and port used head would be cheaper than whatever you paid. Regardless that head won't work with your current computer - requiring an standalone - so you'll have to complete the build 100% before you can drive the car. Given the 700hp figure a rebuild of your VVT-i GE block is needed because of the weaker rods - you might as well just bought a complete GE engine. To be completely honest I just don't know what you are thinking... Cleanshots is correct, buying a GTE engine is the most logical choice.
Stage 1 2JZ-GTE swap 300-400hp
Stage 2 manual conversion
Stage 3 single turbo conversion
Stage 4 cams, fuel and standalone
nice. easy and simple.
Stage 1 2JZ-GTE swap 300-400hp
Stage 2 manual conversion
Stage 3 single turbo conversion
Stage 4 cams, fuel and standalone
nice. easy and simple.
#22
Lexus Champion
iTrader: (2)
Don't worry about what people are saying that going with an NA head was a bad idea. Power can be made with no issues at all. I know of plenty of well built NA's that make over 700. Nothing wrong with buying a new head either. Nothing better than having the peace of mind that you have a quality head. I had a friend bring me a head to build only to find out that is was garbage and had to get a new one. Do it once and do it right.
I don't know what you have planned as far as you turbo setup. I would personally look into Full Race for their manifold without the wastegate tubes (a $400 savings) and a Borg Warner EFR turbo. I'm on the waiting list for a EFR 8374 which will net me a very responsive setup. Call Full Race and ask for Raffi. He's currently building an NA-T SC300 with that turbo and will give you some very good information.
I don't know what you have planned as far as you turbo setup. I would personally look into Full Race for their manifold without the wastegate tubes (a $400 savings) and a Borg Warner EFR turbo. I'm on the waiting list for a EFR 8374 which will net me a very responsive setup. Call Full Race and ask for Raffi. He's currently building an NA-T SC300 with that turbo and will give you some very good information.
#25
Lead Lap
iTrader: (1)
Don't worry about what people are saying that going with an NA head was a bad idea. Power can be made with no issues at all. I know of plenty of well built NA's that make over 700. Nothing wrong with buying a new head either. Nothing better than having the peace of mind that you have a quality head. I had a friend bring me a head to build only to find out that is was garbage and had to get a new one. Do it once and do it right.
I don't know what you have planned as far as you turbo setup. I would personally look into Full Race for their manifold without the wastegate tubes (a $400 savings) and a Borg Warner EFR turbo. I'm on the waiting list for a EFR 8374 which will net me a very responsive setup. Call Full Race and ask for Raffi. He's currently building an NA-T SC300 with that turbo and will give you some very good information.
I don't know what you have planned as far as you turbo setup. I would personally look into Full Race for their manifold without the wastegate tubes (a $400 savings) and a Borg Warner EFR turbo. I'm on the waiting list for a EFR 8374 which will net me a very responsive setup. Call Full Race and ask for Raffi. He's currently building an NA-T SC300 with that turbo and will give you some very good information.
Sorry op to threadjack.
As far as your build, I'm subscribed. Anxious to see how this thing turns out. Very clean SC
#28
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: APO
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Those flow arguments have been going on for what seems like forever. The GTE ports are larger iirc, but the GE ports should have higher port velocity because of their smaller size. I think at certain parts of the power band (keep in mind this should all be dependent on boost level and rpm) each head has its sweet spot. There is give and take, it's similar to discussing the merits of using a large open plenum intake vs. a stock long runner intake manifold, the long runner manifold should have higher charge velocity at lower rpm whereas the open plenum should perform better mid-high to high rpm at higher boost levels. All of this goes out the window when higher boost is thrown at it though, charge velocity is now being artificially generated (or assisted) by the turbo, so a smaller quick boosting turbo can fill the bigger ports just as fast as a n/a GE head's ports.
Keep in mind, without a flow bench this is all academic theory crafting.
Long story short, for response and good power, the GE head should be just fine. I wouldn't even go above 264 duration cams on it. I remember reading a very detailed discussion about intake cams on 2JZs, it stated in short, that going higher than a 270~ (along with the increased lift) was a waste because the ports and valves would already be maxing out their capabilities anyway.
Keep in mind, without a flow bench this is all academic theory crafting.
Long story short, for response and good power, the GE head should be just fine. I wouldn't even go above 264 duration cams on it. I remember reading a very detailed discussion about intake cams on 2JZs, it stated in short, that going higher than a 270~ (along with the increased lift) was a waste because the ports and valves would already be maxing out their capabilities anyway.
#29
Driver
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: May 2010
Location: FL
Posts: 169
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well here's a quick update. I ended up getting a complete 2jzgte NON VVTI to drop in while I'm compiling parts for my "major" build... I'm doing most of the work on my own. I started to pull the motor out on Sunday and everything is moving along smoothly... I went ahead and removed the bumper and hood just so that any collateral damage will be kept at a minimum.. I'll be keeping the motor "somewhat" stock for now (stock twins etc.)..
I know that the next question is " why did I go with a NON VVTI motor and my car is a '99?" Well the short answer is that I got an awesome deal on the swap... I got the motor, trans, ecu, harness, drive shaft etc. for a exceptionally low price.
The issues that I'm now having has to do with the wire harness... The BCM to be more specific... I'm already in the process of extending the ECU harness (simple enough).. But I'm having a hard time locating info on merging the 2 harnesses together... Does anyone have any info to share???
Here are some pics of my progress:
This was Sun. morning:
This was Sun. afternoon:
I started extending the ECU wires today:
I know that the next question is " why did I go with a NON VVTI motor and my car is a '99?" Well the short answer is that I got an awesome deal on the swap... I got the motor, trans, ecu, harness, drive shaft etc. for a exceptionally low price.
The issues that I'm now having has to do with the wire harness... The BCM to be more specific... I'm already in the process of extending the ECU harness (simple enough).. But I'm having a hard time locating info on merging the 2 harnesses together... Does anyone have any info to share???
Here are some pics of my progress:
This was Sun. morning:
This was Sun. afternoon:
I started extending the ECU wires today: