dashboard lighting repair plus!!!!
10-29-02, 03:32 AM
#32
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Jimmit....mine is like that too....only the speedo and tach gauges are out, the other are fine.
Doesnt that just seem weird to anyone? How can 2 of them be completely out and the other 2 fine. I think a lot of peoples are the same way....does anyone hve just the gas or just the temp out?
Im thinking....one thing must control both the speedo and tach....thus when one goes out, the other does too....as I dont know anyone who has just the tach out....but the speedo works, or vice versa.
Doesnt that just seem weird to anyone? How can 2 of them be completely out and the other 2 fine. I think a lot of peoples are the same way....does anyone hve just the gas or just the temp out?
Im thinking....one thing must control both the speedo and tach....thus when one goes out, the other does too....as I dont know anyone who has just the tach out....but the speedo works, or vice versa.
10-29-02, 10:04 AM
#35
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My speedo needle was going out at first. It was about a 1/2" spot and then later the tach started and now the tach is out in two different spots both being about 1/2" wide. The speedo still has that one spot out. They're not completly out. Most times they're working fine because I keep the brightness. My gas and temp are perfect and really bright.
10-29-02, 03:46 PM
#36
Ok, first off, it's not the capacitors. That's gotta be false information cause only my speedo needle is out and not my gas needle. If one capacitor controls both needles my gas one would be out too.
Second, it was suggested that these needles were an early form of Electroluminescent lighting, like indiglo. This isn't possible because the whole needle doesn't go out at the same time, it goes out in stages. EL lighting works like a capacitor, either the whole light works or none of it works.
Third, it's very doubtful that these are leds. White LEDs weren't available in decent quantity till the mid 90s. Lexus had cars with these needles before 93.
Most likely the needles use several bulbs of some sort. My guess is that they are miniature fluorescent bulbs. These are the only thing I can think of that would be bright enough and more than available at the time these cars would be produced.
Now about the repair site. This guy is trying to capitalize way too much on this process. Granted he may have put many hours of work into this process and perhaps he does do a fair amount of work on each cluster to replace the needles, but I doubt it takes him more than an hour to do the cluster and certainly no more than $50 in parts. That's $375 an hour after you account for shipping. Even mechanics only charge $80 an hour and I think they're doing a far greater service than this guy (say hello to niche marketing). I'm also very wary of this just from explainations on his website. He says that lexus engineers didn't think of the alternator running at 14 volts rather than 12 volts. Bulls**t. The lexus engineers knew exactly how much voltage the alternator would put out. They're freakin' engineers, they're not going to make a mistake on something like that. If they did, Lexus would be on par with Yugo. Though I do appreciate his use of cold cathodes, I imagine it's a more difficult process than simple LEDs.
I myself have a fair amount of experience with miniature lighting and electronics. If anyone has a spare, non-functioning needle they could send me, I will find a way to repair these needles and I will document the process and share it with all of you so you can do it yourselves for nothing more than the cost of parts and your own time. If I get anxious enough, I may just experiment with my temperature needle, but I'd really rather work on a spare.
Second, it was suggested that these needles were an early form of Electroluminescent lighting, like indiglo. This isn't possible because the whole needle doesn't go out at the same time, it goes out in stages. EL lighting works like a capacitor, either the whole light works or none of it works.
Third, it's very doubtful that these are leds. White LEDs weren't available in decent quantity till the mid 90s. Lexus had cars with these needles before 93.
Most likely the needles use several bulbs of some sort. My guess is that they are miniature fluorescent bulbs. These are the only thing I can think of that would be bright enough and more than available at the time these cars would be produced.
Now about the repair site. This guy is trying to capitalize way too much on this process. Granted he may have put many hours of work into this process and perhaps he does do a fair amount of work on each cluster to replace the needles, but I doubt it takes him more than an hour to do the cluster and certainly no more than $50 in parts. That's $375 an hour after you account for shipping. Even mechanics only charge $80 an hour and I think they're doing a far greater service than this guy (say hello to niche marketing). I'm also very wary of this just from explainations on his website. He says that lexus engineers didn't think of the alternator running at 14 volts rather than 12 volts. Bulls**t. The lexus engineers knew exactly how much voltage the alternator would put out. They're freakin' engineers, they're not going to make a mistake on something like that. If they did, Lexus would be on par with Yugo. Though I do appreciate his use of cold cathodes, I imagine it's a more difficult process than simple LEDs.
I myself have a fair amount of experience with miniature lighting and electronics. If anyone has a spare, non-functioning needle they could send me, I will find a way to repair these needles and I will document the process and share it with all of you so you can do it yourselves for nothing more than the cost of parts and your own time. If I get anxious enough, I may just experiment with my temperature needle, but I'd really rather work on a spare.
10-29-02, 07:05 PM
#38
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Fusionman, that is greatly appreciated. Does anyone have a spare cluster...let's get this going. Perhaps we can all go in on a cluster from a junkyard and send that to you. How about that? Maybe $10-$20 from each of us can get a decent cluster for this. I think that would be priceless iniformation. I am all for it.
10-29-02, 07:39 PM
#39
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well i would like to say that i have taken my dashboard apart plenty of times and its relatively very easy if your careful in not pulling apart parts too hard.the needles need not be calibrated-i have seperated my needles from its base on the speedo/tach and they are extremely small leds's on the needle itself(even the wiring for the contacts on the needle are tiny)would prove very difficult in replacing,but not impossible.i have converted my dashboard to use superwhite led's(everything except needles,and warning lamps) ,but it doesn't give the effect i want it to(not bright enough)the needles were brighter.
-currently working on converting the cathode tubes from the ls400 to my dashboard(flourescent backlighting).
one thing that concerns me about that project dashboard at lexusdash.com is that cathode tubes(the ones illustrated in the picture-the needles) don't come in that size,not that small..............i would love to see the finished result of this guy's dashboard project.
-currently working on converting the cathode tubes from the ls400 to my dashboard(flourescent backlighting).
one thing that concerns me about that project dashboard at lexusdash.com is that cathode tubes(the ones illustrated in the picture-the needles) don't come in that size,not that small..............i would love to see the finished result of this guy's dashboard project.
10-29-02, 10:59 PM
#40
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Agreed, lets get this off the ground. We have a few issues...one is calibrating the needles, but now apparently we dont need to calibrate the needles according to next level coupe??
Next...you said you removed the needles...then put them back on. That doesnt necessarily mean the needles wont have to be calibrated. What if the new LED's are heavier than the ones on there.
So lets solve the calibration issue first.
Next...you said you removed the needles...then put them back on. That doesnt necessarily mean the needles wont have to be calibrated. What if the new LED's are heavier than the ones on there.
So lets solve the calibration issue first.
10-30-02, 11:13 PM
#41
Yes, of course the weight is the biggest problem in calibration/no calibration. If the weight of the needle changes there is a good chance that will alter the reading from the gauge.
Does anyone know how gauges are calibrated? Is it as simple as an adjustment screw while running the car on some external sensor? I've no experience with this. Anyone know who does this calibration? Or how difficult a process it is?
I'm use to working in miniature, I've been building set design models for several years. If everyone wants to go in on a cluster, that could be cool. Any junkyards you guys know of? I'd really just want to be sent a needle, working or not, preferably not. I can always weigh the needle before modification and alter it to stay at the same weight. Let me know what's up.
Does anyone know how gauges are calibrated? Is it as simple as an adjustment screw while running the car on some external sensor? I've no experience with this. Anyone know who does this calibration? Or how difficult a process it is?
I'm use to working in miniature, I've been building set design models for several years. If everyone wants to go in on a cluster, that could be cool. Any junkyards you guys know of? I'd really just want to be sent a needle, working or not, preferably not. I can always weigh the needle before modification and alter it to stay at the same weight. Let me know what's up.
10-31-02, 06:46 AM
#42
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there is a speedo cal shop here in Atlanta, I remember that they were affiliated with some kind of repair location as well...I will find my receipt from when I used them last and find out if they can help us out. I went there 2 years ago to oget my speedo checked to help with a ticket. they are good.
11-02-02, 11:59 AM
#45
LEDs are very voltage sensitive,and if all the needles aren't the same,it'll look funky.I think thats part of the "calibration process",also,there are different LEDs,so one setup isn't going to work with all of them.The frequency of the power supply will also effect the color output.
Good luck
Good luck