1WILLY1

iTrader: (9)

simply not true man

the raw materals for a paint job can be had for less then $200.00

Body shops are notorious for high pricing , and paying more doesnt necessarily mean you are getting a better job or better quality materials.

Kris9884

iTrader: (7)

I'm sorry and not to attack anyone but where's the science in this? Water does NOT seep out of the metal or paint... Lemme paint a picture.

Its 95 degrees out, your laying next to the pool with a cold brew of your choice. Lets say after you reach to grab this said beverage it slips out of your hands because its wet and falls to the ground. After being laughed at by your fellow friends for spilling a perfectly good beer, do you wonder to yourself how it happened? Was it splashed by some annoying kids in the pool with no regard to their surroundings? Has it recently rained or is my beer leaking out of every possible hole in this previously pressurized aluminum can?? In fact, none of those assumptions would be correct.

here's a simple explanation: http://www.browseinfo.net/condense.html

Edit:::: This wasn't pointed to anyone specific, I'm just super bored at work...

HiPSI

iTrader: (2)

The only thing I can see that would be bad about wiping morning dew off your car is the fact that you are taking a cloth and wiping potentially dirt and grit across your paint / clearcoat. I've never stepped out in the morning and had a desire to wipe the morning dew off

Oh and congrats to new paint!! haha sorry that hijacked my thought process....

chingpo05

iTrader: (2)

ha sure im a mechanic at a body shop and know thats bs unless you are going single stage with some crappy paint. ppg shopline which is a cheaper version of ppg global and the materials for this is already almost 600. base, clear, reducer, hardener, and not to add the primer you will need for that pealing clear

meangreen1

iTrader: (13)

The materials alone is 700. Yes its not top of the line paint like RM Diamont which is 400+ a gallon, but for a 19 year old car its great. Guys that spend 7K on a paint job are just blowing money for a SC300. If it was a MKIV, I can see that, big market out there, but at the end of the day its a 3k-8k car and will stay in that range for a while. I would rather paint my car twice in 7 years at 1400 a pop, then pay 5k (on up) once.

1WILLY1

iTrader: (9)

ok ive painted 3 of my cars myself , im currently painting my sc400 and heres the grand total of my material cost so far:

$60 for sandstone beige base coat--1 quart-946 ml--I talked him down from $90
$13 for quart of thinner/reducer
I have clear leftover from before but here its about $50 a quart=mid quality more then good enough
$13 for activator/hardener for clear
I only used primer on small areas where I repaired rust, that was abut 6 bucks for a can
maybe $25.00 on sandaper
$10 for a few rolls of masking tape

Thats well under $200.00 for everything you need

the base im using is not cheap or inferior, neither are any of the other products im using.


J would love to see the body shops breakdown of this $700.

Also no way do you need 1 gallon to paint a car, a quart is plenty, so even the top of the line that you stated would still be only 100$ for a quart at the very most.

Also keep in mind that body shops do not pay retail, they buy in bulk by the barrel, they mix their own colors as well, the total cost of materials to the body shop is probably around $50.00

(edit) quick google search found barels of clear coat ranging in price from $1.00 to $20.00 a litre, thinner reducer can be had for about $2-$5 a litre in bulk.

meangreen1

iTrader: (13)

Okay Rainman of the paint world. I too worked at a body shop and know the process. Most good shops do more then one coat of base and the same goes for clear. And if you have ever painted a car fully you would know the primer soaks up paint, a lot. Remember, this is for an entire paint job, not repairing rust spots. Also, where are you getting 3M painters green masking tape for 10 dollars or is that loonies or toonies. Also keep in mind you are quoating bodyshop prices on somethings and dont get the price point.

chingpo05

iTrader: (2)

lol you are using 1 quart on the whole car? that is unacceptable bc in the long run the old paint will bleed straight through "your" base. it depends on the paint manufacturer also on the coverage ability but 1 quart on a whole car is ridiculous. over here depending on the original color we use anywhere from 3/4-1 gallon on a car. it also depends if we use a good base below the new color, at least three coats of clear, two coats of primer in areas that need body work, pealing, or rust. two primers bc we block our primer straight and then reprimer afterwards to seal. not to include buffing and buffing materials.

1400 is a good price for the op if he knows the ppl painting the car and is a good price for both parties if there is not many hands touching the job. i do see where you coming from when you say 5k+ on a paintjob is stupid bc it is. i wouldnt pay more than 3k on a show quality job and im talking taking down all the paint to the metal glaze the whole body for low/high spots, remove all glass, three stage pearl paint job, interior and out. i really want to see how your car turns out though.

1WILLY1

iTrader: (9)

im also talking at least 3 coats of base and clear, awhere did I say otherwise?

Also your car is gong to be sanded down to the base color, not the metal , theres no reason to prime your entire car, if u were really a body shop guy u would know this.

and 3m painters tape is like $5.00 a roll so what r u on about? two rolls is moe then enough to mask the entire car

also can we please see the breakdown of the $700 of materials the body shop told you about?

u can thin base by half which means you wil have 1.5 liters to use, which on a respray is more then enough. You can give it 3 or more coats and still have some to spare.

There is no way a professional body shop is using 1 gallon of base on a respray or even a color change its just wayyyyyy too much.

both of you guys dont know what you are talking about in my opinion

chingpo05

iTrader: (2)

well i dont know if your opinion makes any sense to neither of us..

where did any of us say that you need to prime the whole car??? but in some cases there are guys like you that use some bs paint and our good stuff would react with crappy base then we would have to prime/seal the entire car.

usually you would just need to scuff/sand the clear and go off of the old base most of the time but some times where body work is need so is filler and primer. primer shrinks and also soaks up alot of base as the op originally said. i dont know what kind of work you guys up in toronto are popping out but down here where i work we do it the right way and one time only. ive met many painters like you that would buy a quart or less and reduce the hell of it in hopes of covering a car. i rather have extra paint from "ONE" mixed batch then keep on making runs for more and in the end coming up with two different shades. and please tell me what kind of clear do you use that cost only 50 dollars+ w/e you had left to use?

i have another question for you have you painted any metallic silvers bc the way it sounds like you lay paint i bet it would look like a damn silver spotted cheetah. you should try changing colors like red to white also

1WILLY1

iTrader: (9)

lol actually this is my first time laying metallic paint and the first time i painted my door and quarter panel your right ,,it was a little spotty , but i got the hang of it now and it is pretty much perfect.

We have cheap clears here for even $25.00 that i used on my honda it worked fine,some europen brand i forget the name, the one i use now is sherwin williams , a much higher grade ,its closer to $60.00 actually ,,they also have ones fo much more , like $100 just for a quart but i never tried those ones yet.

and yes ideally It is smart to have extra paint for later use but for me I try to save money where i can so Imanage with a quart and still havea bit left for a touch up here and there, but if money isnt the issue id agree go for a gallon so u have plenty for later on.

chingpo05

iTrader: (2)

euroclass clear is what youre talking about i believe. we have experimented on that clear and for the price its not bad. regular job blow wouldnt be able to tell the difference but the clear is a little tougher to buff.

to help you with your metallics you will have to make sure you cover at every angle to get it gone. it sux but you will have to lay more than usual you will have to lay from bottom to top top to bottom side to side and corner to corner.