Update and question...

Update: after changing all but the rear bushings in the UCA, the car drives 10x better. worth the pain in the *** it was.

Question:

Ok, I've had the fuel leak/smell others have talked about on the forum. I already PM'd gazi for a new canister and check valve, anything else I should get while I'm at it?

I found fuel leaking from the tube in the center of the picture here. It's a fast drip after I park and check. I'm wondering if there could be another issue I wasn't able to find in the forum search. Any suggestions?

 

Anyone????

 

You're doing great work, good luck with the build!

 

Thank you sir!

 

So what I noticed in my research through the forum, was that many people has a fuel smell when they had changed their gas tank, but after 6 month to a year later they were still complaining about the smell and never solved the problem....I wonder if they had a leak like me, or just the smell. I suspect they had a leak as well.

I was able to fix the fuel leak. When I had changed the gas tank to the replacement tank, I did not put the connections on correctly. Luckily, I had the old gas tank and followed all the fuel lines to understand the fuel routing. I was able to narrow down the fuel leak and the fuel smell to the line that has the canister in the engine bay and followed it back to the tank. That connection on the tank had a pin on it (pictured) that needs to be seated properly into the hole otherwise fuel will leak out of the tank into a line that is only meant to vent gas vapor, not fuel. I had thought it sealed well since fuel didn't leak from that spot, but what I didn't know it that there was still an internal leak of fuel reaching areas it should not be in. In addition I also noticed there are several pieces that make this seal properly. In this order: Bolt, small metal washer, fuel line connection, rubber washer and small metal washer. I had noticed that I had not replaced the last small metal washer either. Apparently its pretty important because it stopped the fuel leak I had. I had lost over 1/2 a tank in 2 days from sitting.

The larger hole is the vapor vent line on the bottom of the tank on the drivers side of the car. The smaller one is the hole that if not plugged properly, will leak fuel into the line next to it. As you can see, the smaller hole shows the light coming in from the other (inside) side of the tank where the fuel is held.


The picture of the top of my old gas tank. The center hole here has a small tube that filters vapors out through the bottom of the tank in the larger hole in the previous picture. I removed another piece there just to see how it worked.

Draning the fuel to seat the connection properly:

There was a small metal washer missing that I forgot to replace. The rubber one goes behind that.


No more leaks


I ordered a new charcoal canister as it was drenched with fuel and fuel ecu (since I just needed a new one).

I no longer have the fuel smell or fuel leak I hope this helps others that have this problem. In addition I have noticed that rust develops in there and even without a gas tank change the rust may compromise the seal. It's worth checking as this solved my problem.

 

Yeah, it's all coming together. I've bookmarked this to use as future references...thx for sharing! I aint mad at you, even tho you beat me to that shift ****. LOL

steve

 

Arrived today! My Boost Logic manifold

 

So have u had any real issues with the swap once u finished it ? I am planning on doing this same swap.

 

I've been driving the car for a year with the gte vvti swap. Original w58 has held up very well with no issues. I love it. It hasn't left me anywhere, and I have gone on long road trips even with the compression not perfect and the leakdown test showing not the best results. It's my daily. The only downfall is finding vvti upgrade parts used/new when trying to build....outside of that, I'm good and happy.

 

Thats sux, i'll PM you

 

hows the car running? do all your gauges on the dash work? any check engine light? what rotue your going for tuning? im looking to do the exact same ting i have a 92 sc300 orignal 5speed. looking to use the w58 also

 

The car has been great. No issues outside of the a.c. which has now been resolved. Originally I had the automatic stock ecu for the gte vvti, and I went through a few ac compressors. The fix I was told and finally did it was to find the manual transmission (6mt) gte vvti ecu that can actually control the ac compressor properly. Since I have changed the edu, I have not had any ac problems. Those ecu's are had as **** to find, and I was lucky enough to find one...and it was tuned buy Mines

Don't get me wrong, the ac will work with the auto ecu, which I still keep as a backup, but the ac compressor will eventually keep going out on you every so often, and will need to be rebuilt over and over.

This is the ecu part number... 89661-14830

 

Since I haven't updated in a while...















Car is getting all new front end suspension including Supra tt LCA's:



Wood panels painted jet black:







...and a little grab from TeeLex:

 

I'm curious how much difference the Dynamat will make. Road noise drives me nuts in my Supra.

 

If you don't care about the added weight, then do it. I love how much it has muffled the sounds coming from the outside. I was really surprised. I only did my doors and the rear seat at first. I liked it so much, I did the floor and the ceiling. I was changing my tan interior to black, so to me it was a no brainer... had to take it all out anyways.