Just wanted to let everyone who got in on the buy know that I got my seats today. Hopefully they'll go in next week and I can give a review later (I'm doing a total restoration now - interior and exterior, so I'll post a huge review when it is all done).

The quality looks top notch. I haven't dig everything out of the box yet, but it looks like they got my order 100% correct. The leather has a bit more grain to it and is softer than stock. It seems pretty thick and I am really impressed with the seat backing build quality. Let you know how fit works out later.

 

let us know how it goes!! if ya need any help just ask, I'm around Irvine alot

I'll try to post pictures of my leatherseats.com custom leather one of these days

 

I got mine in on Monday, and I have already installed the rears.

Quality is top notch. Nice thick leather, good texture. The perf centers look awsome. The color matches perfectly. Now my seats actually match the dash and door pannels!!!

The installation is a breeze. This is definately a do-it-yourself job. I finished the rears in under 3 hours from start to finish. The hardest thing is figuring out how to use the hog ring pliers. After several minutes, the light bulb came on in my head and I felt like an idiot, but I'm past that now! The second hardest thing was removing the old sikins. Actual installation was the easiest part.

Tips for any other do-it-yourselfers: On the rear buckets, make sure you install the inserts (perforated parts, if thats what you got) first, then pull the top and bottom and sides for their installation LAST. I made the small mistake of doing the center part (part between the seatbelt recepticals first; i.e the part you don't sit on, unless your the unlucky 3rd person in the back)- made sence at the time...start with the middle and work your way out - NOPE! Start with the actual seating surface's then do the center. Why? the tolerances are tight and its a perfect fit. A little off and it won't fit right.

Good luck - It looks AWSOME!!!!!

Yes, I know; I'll post pics when I'm done.

Keith


P.S. Ryan is right, the seat backing is alot better than stock.

 

Awesome,

Another hint.

When getting ready to pull out the front seats... Unbolt them first.. Slide them over a little so that you can see the side of the seat that faces the center console. Then look for the rear bolt hole that holds the bottom seat cushion down. It is obvious where it should be, but when you look thru the cut out in the metal frame of the seat, you may only see half of the bolt. You need to use the seat lifter motor to line it up before you unplug it all.

Last helper hint, to remove the front seat's back cover, you need to first remove the screws on the bottom of the piece. Then to release the entire fiberglass piece, you need to push down on the sides near the lumbars, and then pull up on the wings. They have clips that hold them in place. Becareful not to yank on it. It does NOT have door panel poppers.

MW

 

I received mine today also.. very nice

 

 

I did my passenger seat yesterday and it looks perfect. Took me 2 hours start to finish for the seat and the center console cover.


My God, I should have done this soooo much sooner. The seats are twice as soft now. You actually sink into them.

Now the car has that new car leather smell. That alone was worth the money.

The head rest is a snug fit. It doesn't just slide on, you have to angle in the headrest into the skin, then work the corners over then straighten everything up. The button you press to remove the headrest just pulls out (quite difficult). The guides for the headrest are expanded clips. Use a set of needle nose pliers to squeze together from the underneath after the old skins have been pulled up.

For the centerconsole, put the cover on first, then spary the adhesive on the sides, let dry. Pull very tight and press down. I sprayed the top part and it only caused problems by making it hard to center and fit.

Man, this was so worth the money!

Keith

 

Agony, Im still waiting on mine to get here....on the bright side though, I do get all the tips to doing it perfectly.

 

Must be GS seat right?

 

That looks like the interior of a Maxima

 

The GS only has a subwoofer on the rear package shelf. This picture shows a 6x9 behind the seat. I think that it is a Maxima too.

 

I got all my leather, and it indeed looks great!

I have started to configure the passenger seat, and it is not an impossible task, but it isn't easy. The Lexus Shop manual is a must because it tells what to remove/disconnnect in order to get the cushions out. The new stuff does not use the metal rods for the hog rings in most locations, and the center bottom does not have the "plastic" support for hog rings, did anyone else see this?

I STILL can'r figure out how to get the old headrest leather off without doing some major damage to the inner foam. I saw that someone got it on, but there must be a trick.... does anyone have any hints on how to get the old leather off without destroying the original leather (which is still in great shape), or inner foam?

This will be an interesting W/E!!!

Keep in mind, I only have worked with the passenger seat..

My hands have already been cut-up a bit.

 

Though I have one, I never had to crack it open. But I have taken the seats apart in the past (w/o a manual). A good inspection will show what needs to be unscrewed.

The factory rods are retained in several locations.....Like the center bottom. Just pull out the stock rod and slide it through the leather lip that extends down.

The OEM leather just slides off. It is Extremely tight. I had to actually cut the stitching a bit so that I didn't mess up any of the foam. But the new stuff is just as tricky to get on. Luckily the soft new leather stretches just enough to pull it over. You need to put one side in at a time, then pull over. Kinda like fitting a couch [loveseat] through a doorway. That refrence won't make sence unless you are actually doing a leather swap!

Unscrewing the headrest from underneath does absoutly NOTHING and wastes about 20 minutes of your time.

Just cut the stitching to get the old covers off, then reinstall the new leather by sticking one side in, then pulling that over. Then put the other side on. Then you will have to center the skin because it is on, juts not on straight. DO NOT use the spray adhesive on the headrest's. As the leather absorbs some moisture, it will shrink up and will not be easy to move again, so make sure the headrest is on tight w/o any wrinkles.

Mine have bad blisters from using that damn hog ring pliers.


Good luck,
Keith



P.S. Man are the new seats soft. You really sink into the new seats. They feel softer than a new car.

 

Hey there,

The headrests are tight, but that is good. Just pull them over and your done. The old ones are tight too but will come off if you work on it. I did it watching TV one night.

In terms of cutting your hands or blistering. I had none of that. I did create a minor cramp and can now crush solid metal in my bare hand . I don't understand the cuts thou. Where did you cut your hand, there are no sharp parts in doing the interior. You DID remove the seat from the car didn't you.

Lastly, you do not need the shop manuals at all. I don't have them. Once you realize how to remove the covers, putting them back on is just going in the opposite direction. Once you get the covers off, the seat foam has indentations from where every hog ring was.

MW

 

OK,
The fronts are DONE, and although you may not need the SC service manual, if you don't you better know how to get the back off, and some other "tricks" like removing the recliner ****, or your apt to break clips or rip up the covers. Sorry, some of you folks may be like Miss Cleo, but I am not. My brother doen't use manuals either, as he claims he doen't "need them". I guess I am not as enlightened.

The quality is good (deluxe with center perferations), but there are a few differences from the factory set up. First, you will not have the carpet on the bottoms of the back seats, LeatherSeats uses vinal. There are no center "plastic rods" in the center bottom front cushion like the originals. I don't know if that will make a difference or not. Use of the hog pliers requires you to learn the "right way" to crimp. I was hoping the "installation kit" would have some hints on this, but, there is no real set of "instructions" (installation kit). I NEVER put upolstery in, so there are some definate techniques to lean. If you don't cut, bruise or overwork you hands the first time you do this, then you are lucky. I have worked on cars for over 35 years, but this is an area that is new to me.

Finally, don't expect the fit to be as "tight" as the factory. The leather will not be completely "flat", there are little bulges here and there, not ugly or bad looking, but I see no way to have this a perfect fit. Each piece is cut just a little different, and this leather is "soft" comparred to the factory, which seems to be a little stiffer.

All and all I would do it again, and have the rears to do as well. You MUST be patient, and learn the "techniques". Once you have, you can move at a quicker pace.

Just as note, make sure you have the seat all the way in the upward position before removal, or the seat mechanisim will be in the way of the lower cusion bolts.

Experienced, now.