SC digital dash How-to
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I had looked at them before but they would end up costing me around $300 shipped to the U.S.
I picked up the Olds display for $20 at a local JY. I also like the sweeping arc style gages. I have a full set of the ProSport EVO digital gauges for my race car and these kind of resemble the displays but for a whole lot less money.
I picked up the Olds display for $20 at a local JY. I also like the sweeping arc style gages. I have a full set of the ProSport EVO digital gauges for my race car and these kind of resemble the displays but for a whole lot less money.
Last edited by UZinator; 09-14-12 at 01:27 AM.
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I don't think this one is all that insane. It is pretty straight forward. So far the hardest part has been removing the excess plastic from inside the white SC cluster shell without cracking it all to hell. I found out quickly that nearly all plastic on SC's is brittle as hell. So I think that future projects will be re-making a lot of stuff from fiberglass or CF and slowly replacing all of the brittle bits-n-pieces with stuff that will last a whole lot longer.
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Actually -I converted to un-obtanium because it has less harmful effects to the environment and it can run the flux capacitor indefinitely. I added dual in-line signal conditioners to filter out the half-wave reverberation so that the signal bias doesn't get skewed before it goes through the Fnorton valve. WIthout the conditioners -there is no telling what might have happened when I hit the giga-boost buttton.
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There is a Mph / Km/h switch function. When you use Km/h -it changes the numbers to a max of 130. The Mph and Km/h lettering are on a separate pins from the numbers. It is possible to swap the Mph and Km/h to give you a display that goes to 130 Mph. Then the speed pulses would have to be calibrated with a Dakota Digital calibrator to get accurate speed indication.
Last edited by UZinator; 11-12-12 at 05:40 AM.
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Hey this is a great idea I have been thinking of how to get that look in my car with the gauges and style. You have given me a idea, I am going to try the same thing in a Coupe Deville. let me know how it goes any help would be great as far as wiring and any problem you run into.
Thanks Keep up the good work!
Thanks Keep up the good work!
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Hey this is a great idea I have been thinking of how to get that look in my car with the gauges and style. You have given me a idea, I am going to try the same thing in a Coupe Deville. let me know how it goes any help would be great as far as wiring and any problem you run into.
Thanks Keep up the good work!
Thanks Keep up the good work!
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I will post the sensor How-to info at a later time. I am currently experiencing some hardships and I am unable to work on this project any more at the moment. If things get better soon -I will be back on this and finish up the How-To.
Last edited by UZinator; 11-12-12 at 11:08 AM.
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i have been dying to do this to my sc but i am actually a moron when it comes to wiring. just too frustrating. if you ever decide to offer a service to do this, i will more then happy pay. i would love the soarer cluster but i really like the one you used
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When I finish up this How-to -I will make it very simple. I actually took the stock connectors out of the PC board of the SC cluster and had been making a very simple adapter that plugs right into the SC harness. When I finish the thread -I will show detailed photos of where to hook up the wires and describe a little about what each does and how it interconnects.
I will show how I took the stock fuel sender and float and put it in a fixed vise and made a chart behind the float to mark the upper and lower float level positions. And then I will give out the part number for a new Olds sender unit that can be removed from the tube assembly and fixed onto the SC assembly in place of the SC sender.
I will then show how to bend the float arm of the newly grafted Olds sender to make the minimum and maximum positions line up to exactly the same positions of the original SC float.
I will show how and where to install the Olds oil pressure sender and how to adapt the plug to the SC harness. I will show how to do the same with the temp sender.
Then I will explain how to install the DD tach calibrator for the 1UZ guys/gals. The JZ guys/gals may not have to use a calibrator since the Olds is already a 6 cylinder.
Then I will explain how to install the DD speedo calibrator and how to do the calibration. It might be a bit of work to do -but I will make it easy to understand.
I will show how I took the stock fuel sender and float and put it in a fixed vise and made a chart behind the float to mark the upper and lower float level positions. And then I will give out the part number for a new Olds sender unit that can be removed from the tube assembly and fixed onto the SC assembly in place of the SC sender.
I will then show how to bend the float arm of the newly grafted Olds sender to make the minimum and maximum positions line up to exactly the same positions of the original SC float.
I will show how and where to install the Olds oil pressure sender and how to adapt the plug to the SC harness. I will show how to do the same with the temp sender.
Then I will explain how to install the DD tach calibrator for the 1UZ guys/gals. The JZ guys/gals may not have to use a calibrator since the Olds is already a 6 cylinder.
Then I will explain how to install the DD speedo calibrator and how to do the calibration. It might be a bit of work to do -but I will make it easy to understand.
Last edited by UZinator; 11-12-12 at 11:09 AM.