Paint prep key information?
#1
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My sc is getting ready for the last step. Its fast it runs well the interior is awesome. Just need the exterior done. It has a horrible paint job. Ridiculously bad. Was prepped poorly and sprayed poorly.
my buddy and I are going to do most of the prep work to save some money for paint. It has a fiberglass front fender from a body kit that will need to be stripped. A lot of the car will need to go all the way down.
are there any key elements that are tricky in prepping? Anything that proves devilish or time consuming?
thanks. I can't wait to have it finally finished. If anyone is in western jersey or near Philly and wants to make some money helping out I'd love to pay for some experienced help.
my buddy and I are going to do most of the prep work to save some money for paint. It has a fiberglass front fender from a body kit that will need to be stripped. A lot of the car will need to go all the way down.
are there any key elements that are tricky in prepping? Anything that proves devilish or time consuming?
thanks. I can't wait to have it finally finished. If anyone is in western jersey or near Philly and wants to make some money helping out I'd love to pay for some experienced help.
#2
Lead Lap
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Well first off try not to go all the way down. Just stop in the primer. I am guessing it was scuffed and sealed then just shot some cheap solvent paint onto it? Anyways you need to sand the car down with 80 grit then 180 grit. Next I will say when sanding with the 80 it is ok to use a da sander and for the 180 as well. But the areas that cannot be sanded with that make sure if hand sanding to always use block for even sanding that way there are no ripples.
If you want to paint just ask and i can go through what ya need its pricy. But one thing is mill thickness of your paint. See you might not need to go to far down in the paint. Different brands and types of paint have diffrent requirments in this area. Like sherwin williams may say 12 mills for solvent based and dupont may say 14-16 mils. There is allot to get into on just the prep. If you are going to use some icing or filler on the body ask and I can go through those steps as well for you.
If you want to paint just ask and i can go through what ya need its pricy. But one thing is mill thickness of your paint. See you might not need to go to far down in the paint. Different brands and types of paint have diffrent requirments in this area. Like sherwin williams may say 12 mills for solvent based and dupont may say 14-16 mils. There is allot to get into on just the prep. If you are going to use some icing or filler on the body ask and I can go through those steps as well for you.
#3
Lexus Test Driver
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All I know is you sand down the original paint and clear coat, bondo to fill the imperfections on the surface of the body, and sand the entire surface to level it out. Then it's ready for primer, base coats, and clear coat. After that you wet sand the orange peel texture of the clear coat then polish the car after its clean.
Not sure if that was what you were looking for, sorry if it wasn't
Not sure if that was what you were looking for, sorry if it wasn't
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#4
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also if there is rust get those parts sandblasted to get rid of all evidence of rust. you may sand it away but its still theres.. and depepnding on the paint the shop will b useing you may want to personally call and ask there advice. if its going to b water solvent or not.. i also agree with MKIVS374 make sure to use blocks. also try not to pile on alot of bondo and of fiberglass depending on what u plan on useing
#5
Lead Lap
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Also if you use a filler or icing. Make sure to do filler first and the icing on top. The reason is the icing has a finer finish to it. Or if just very minor imperfections they can use a high build primer for it just gonna pay more to have it sanded. Just guessing there is no rust with it freshly painted as I understand.
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