Took my car to the shop, should I keep it or sell it?
08-30-13, 09:09 PM
#32
Keeper of the light
iTrader: (17)
yep, but only after you've cycled the new ECU past the 100 miles, 4 or 5 starts to get a cache going in the ECU. Only issue I can see is that since you reset the ECU if there is a faulty component you won't have a good baseline for the ECU to cache.
09-01-13, 09:39 AM
#33
Pole Position
Thread Starter
I found this video online, this is exactly what happens to mine when I turn it on and leave it idling for about 3 minutes or after I drive it and put it in park
09-03-13, 05:10 PM
#36
Pole Position
Thread Starter
Today I turned my car on and unplugged the MAF and nothing changed, I turned it on without the MAF plugged in and it turned on and ran just as it normally does. That means my MAF is bad right?
09-03-13, 05:52 PM
#38
everyone has mentioned to clean the idle air control valve, but you haven't said anything back about it. likely, it is stuck in the cold start position causing the idle to be massively high when warmed up because a warm engine doesn't need much air at all from the iacv compared to a cold one.
You get the hunting because once the ecu sees it go past a certain rpm, it pulls timing to lower the idle but then it goes right back up and keeps repeating.
09-03-13, 06:23 PM
#39
Pole Position
Thread Starter
No that does not mean your maf is bad on an older sc400, they do not need the maf to run especially since it has already learned all the values, but it would also still run if you reset the ecu just a bit different.
everyone has mentioned to clean the idle air control valve, but you haven't said anything back about it. likely, it is stuck in the cold start position causing the idle to be massively high when warmed up because a warm engine doesn't need much air at all from the iacv compared to a cold one.
You get the hunting because once the ecu sees it go past a certain rpm, it pulls timing to lower the idle but then it goes right back up and keeps repeating.
09-05-13, 02:28 PM
#41
Pole Position
Thread Starter
Ok guys so today I did a resistance check on my IACV and the results are as follows
B1-S1: 23.4
B2-S2: 23.1
B1-S3: 23.1
B2-S4: 23.4
S2-S4: 45.7
S1-S3: 45.7
Can a tech guru tell me if this is good or bad?
I also took apart the casing and checked the motor and it spins, I lubed it up and put it back together.
My car stopped idling AGAIN yesterday so I have to manually idle it with my foot until it finally decides to idle again. Any suggestions?
B1-S1: 23.4
B2-S2: 23.1
B1-S3: 23.1
B2-S4: 23.4
S2-S4: 45.7
S1-S3: 45.7
Can a tech guru tell me if this is good or bad?
I also took apart the casing and checked the motor and it spins, I lubed it up and put it back together.
My car stopped idling AGAIN yesterday so I have to manually idle it with my foot until it finally decides to idle again. Any suggestions?
09-05-13, 05:12 PM
#43
resistance checks out with the 2jzge manual says and they are pretty much the same thing.
I don't have one for the 1uz.
1. INSPECT IAC VALVE FOR OPERATING SOUND
Check that there is a clicking sound immediately after stopping
the engine.
If operation is not as specified, check the IAC valve, wiring
and ECM.
3. INSPECT IAC VALVE RESISTANCE
Using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance between the terminals
(B1 (or B2) to others).
Resistance:
At 20°C (68°F) 18–22 ohms
If the resistance is not as specified, replace the IAC valve.
I don't have one for the 1uz.
1. INSPECT IAC VALVE FOR OPERATING SOUND
Check that there is a clicking sound immediately after stopping
the engine.
If operation is not as specified, check the IAC valve, wiring
and ECM.
3. INSPECT IAC VALVE RESISTANCE
Using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance between the terminals
(B1 (or B2) to others).
Resistance:
At 20°C (68°F) 18–22 ohms
If the resistance is not as specified, replace the IAC valve.
09-06-13, 09:02 AM
#45
mines for a 95 supra 2jzge and 2jzgte, this was from the 2jzge one direct copy and paste.
The large range is due to temperature, as long as you are in that range and they are all similar it should be alright, but I have a feeling it can check out resistance wise and still not work. thats why they talk about the clicking thing. some of them just go bad forever and you have to replace them but its hard to tell on some cars.
The large range is due to temperature, as long as you are in that range and they are all similar it should be alright, but I have a feeling it can check out resistance wise and still not work. thats why they talk about the clicking thing. some of them just go bad forever and you have to replace them but its hard to tell on some cars.