MajorSloMo

iTrader: (1)

Ok so I posted about this over at LexusOwnersClub the other day, but I was having some weird cluster issues. Basically my temp and fuel needles would start to black out, and my tach and speedo would blink. I also had some bulbs out in the cluster as well, So I decided to try and pull the cluster and replace the bulbs with LEDs. EPIC FAIL! I was able to pull the cluster out and got the connector on the left out, but the center and right connector proved to be impossible. So, I put it all together and decided I'd deal with it another day. I went out later in the night only to find my cluster working totally fine Needles were solid, all lights were lit up everything worked. I turned my low beams on and the cluster lights dimmed a little bit but everything worked. They worked up until I turned the dimmer switch to full on and then the temp needle started to go out again. I backed off the dimmer just a little and the needle came back to normal. I'm wondering if I just swamp out the battery, do any of you guys think the cluster would work normally? Any input would be great.

SC400slide

iTrader: (11)

Test the battery with a 12 volt tester. Should read between 13.00 and 12.00 if it's good.

Dougspeed

iTrader: (2)

LOL, this is such an old issue, do a search on O.L.T. about cluster lighting issues. It has nothing to do with the battery or lack of voltage draw. Go here to see why your cluster is doing this:
http://lextech.org/forums/index.php?topic=7.0

OG Dada

iTrader: (10)

First of all, why would you SWAMP out the battery? Sorry, just had to get it out my system, LOL.

The dimming of the cluster lights when headlights are turned on is normal, you don't want your cluster to be too bright when you're driving at night, believe me. It's like having your own headlights pointing at yourself. This is also a 15-20 year old car, bulbs go out, it's even more of a surprise that most of them are still working. Yeah, do a search on OLT's DIY's, his like the light God in this forums. LOL

MajorSloMo

iTrader: (1)

lol Its all good man I was pretty tired when I wrote that post.

Anyway, yeah, she's old, I've been focusing on fixing the all the things the owner before me didnt. The car has pretty much stock 92 everything. timing belt, water pump, hydraulic tensioner, drive belt, cap and rotor, plugs, wires, air filter, and battery. All stock from 92. The radiator was halfway disintegrated also. So, thats what I'm working with and why I thought the power draw had something to do with old parts

MajorSloMo

iTrader: (1)

The major snag I ran into pulling the cluster out is the right and center connectors. How in the hell do you disconnect those things?

OG Dada

iTrader: (10)

Just break the clips. I have broken mine trying to remove it about 3 years ago when I bought the car, it still holds pretty tight even without the clip that locks.

RWDorGTFO

No, it should read 12.6v

MajorSloMo

iTrader: (1)

I've been trying my best not to do that, but it may be the only option if I want to get it off to someone to rebuild it.

Also I've been reading your posts KingPhilip. Your story is sort of similar to mine. Mind if I PM you with some questions?

O. L. T.

iTrader: (17)

You need a pie chart?



No you NEED to break the clips. That's the proper way to do it for the same reason a good cop is a dirty cop on some level. Sometimes things have to be done a certain way to be the right way. This is one of them. Once the cluster is removed, break the center clips of the three plugs completely out. They are not what holds the plugs in, friction is......they are TIGHT. The clips will prevent you from an easy calibration which may have you removing the unit 2 or 3 times when you put it back in depending on how close you get the final settings and future changes/adjustments.

This black and white approach to things will serve you no good here in the world of working with a car with as much emotion as a human in the way it responds to your maintenance. SC's are temperamental and sometimes you gotta treat them like you're the warden and they are the inmate. A little finagling of the system makes them a lot happier when it makes things flow better than a black and white solution.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

yeah either that or you need a magical flat head screw driver and alot of patience hanging out upside down

SC400slide

iTrader: (11)

If this was the case, all of my batteries would fail. Technnically, when he is testing the battery, it should read generally from 12-13. That's how I measure my batteries, and if it reads 11.5v or 12.3v the battery still has voltage, plenty of voltage actually. My brand new 12v battery in my SC always reads from 11-13. Usually 12.3 or so. And it starts perfectly. (and everything else)

A PERFECT absolutely flawless battery should read 12.6 and UP.

SC3coupe

iTrader: (4)

also have some minor issues, when the turn signal is blinking the cruise control light also dims with it. I just think it has to do with the electronics being OLD... singal contact is dirty etc.

Going to see if I can get the thing refurbed and replace some of the caps to see if this helps..

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

could be the alternator or battery. make sure you have the right size if you use too small of a battery these things will show up more as well.

SC400slide

iTrader: (11)

My SC does this, as well as my 96 Explorer. It's an old car thing.