More door panel repair thoughts
#1
Pole Position
Thread Starter
More door panel repair thoughts
Hi everyone! I haven't posted for a long time. I forgot my password, and tried to change it several times, but when I did, it would ask me to sign in again each time I tried to post. Weird!
I finally got high speed internet, instead of dial up, so was able to sign in again.
Sadly, I have to sign in to try to get some more advice about repairing my '94 SC3, but to sell now, not to keep. I'd love to keep it, but my daughter is moving to NY next month, and I want to give her some money to leave with.
Since I bought it, a couple of years ago, in pretty poor condition, I've accumulated quite a few good U-pull parts. I now have almost perfect seats installed, and a good door panel on the passenger side. I haven't been able to find a very good one for the driver side though --- I installed one that was better than she came with (which was falling off), but it's still rough. The last couple of days I have been using JB weld epoxy and reinforcing screen to repair the panel around the window/lock switches, and the speaker, in the lower, map holder, portion of the panel (the hard plastic part ---- I'll post some pics), but pretty much every one of the places that screws go through along the bottom and front edge are broken. I've seen the DIY about using plumber's hanging strap and liquid nails, but that isn't very feasible for those locations. I'm considering drilling each place out for flat washers, then using epoxy and screen to make the washers part of the panel. I figure I can heat and pull back the vinyl, then heat it to mold it back into shape to re-glue into place. Has anyone tried anything like this?
Do you have any other ideas?
I finally got high speed internet, instead of dial up, so was able to sign in again.
Sadly, I have to sign in to try to get some more advice about repairing my '94 SC3, but to sell now, not to keep. I'd love to keep it, but my daughter is moving to NY next month, and I want to give her some money to leave with.
Since I bought it, a couple of years ago, in pretty poor condition, I've accumulated quite a few good U-pull parts. I now have almost perfect seats installed, and a good door panel on the passenger side. I haven't been able to find a very good one for the driver side though --- I installed one that was better than she came with (which was falling off), but it's still rough. The last couple of days I have been using JB weld epoxy and reinforcing screen to repair the panel around the window/lock switches, and the speaker, in the lower, map holder, portion of the panel (the hard plastic part ---- I'll post some pics), but pretty much every one of the places that screws go through along the bottom and front edge are broken. I've seen the DIY about using plumber's hanging strap and liquid nails, but that isn't very feasible for those locations. I'm considering drilling each place out for flat washers, then using epoxy and screen to make the washers part of the panel. I figure I can heat and pull back the vinyl, then heat it to mold it back into shape to re-glue into place. Has anyone tried anything like this?
Do you have any other ideas?
#2
I haven't tried this myself. Both my interior structural panels (the large pieces that protrude) were cracked and compromised when I bought mine. I found a deal on two brand new panels but were I in a crunch I'd have shopped as much as possible for a decent example at a scrapyard just as you did. At a certain point there is only so much that can be done.
#3
Pole Position
Thread Starter
I haven't tried this myself. Both my interior structural panels (the large pieces that protrude) were cracked and compromised when I bought mine. I found a deal on two brand new panels but were I in a crunch I'd have shopped as much as possible for a decent example at a scrapyard just as you did. At a certain point there is only so much that can be done.
Thanks.
#4
Pole Position
Thread Starter
fiberglass to plastic?
I've been wondering how to fix the perimeter holes of my lower door panel. Does anyone know if fiberglass will stick to the plastic. Can I use cloth and resin, or won't it hold up?
Thanks.
Thanks.
#5
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Don't know why those suggestions would not work. When using epoxy I like to rough up the surrounding surfaces for a good strong hold. I have also used thin pieces of tin that I can cut/shape/mold then adhere with a good epoxy for added strength around a break. I personally like the slower drying epoxy (15min +) but to each his own. The important thing is that you have strong plastic around where your crack or break is. As SC owners we all have had to deal with these door cards at one time or another.The trick is to take your time and do it once and do it right. Once done ,try not to remove the door card again unless you really have to. If you find you must remove the door card for some kind of internal door issue, just plan added time to once again do some door card repairs/upgrades. Also, Remember SEM brand of spray paint is a VERY fine interior car plastic/vinyl spray paint if needed. Available at most auto paint supply shops.
#6
Pole Position
Thread Starter
Don't know why those suggestions would not work. When using epoxy I like to rough up the surrounding surfaces for a good strong hold. I have also used thin pieces of tin that I can cut/shape/mold then adhere with a good epoxy for added strength around a break. I personally like the slower drying epoxy (15min +) but to each his own. The important thing is that you have strong plastic around where your crack or break is. As SC owners we all have had to deal with these door cards at one time or another.The trick is to take your time and do it once and do it right. Once done ,try not to remove the door card again unless you really have to. If you find you must remove the door card for some kind of internal door issue, just plan added time to once again do some door card repairs/upgrades. Also, Remember SEM brand of spray paint is a VERY fine interior car plastic/vinyl spray paint if needed. Available at most auto paint supply shops.
I just did some repairs on my bumper covers, and used SEM flexible surface primer on them --- Pricey stuff; $16 a can!
Last edited by hoosier58; 09-13-13 at 04:28 PM.
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