so i bought some CCWs :) and this happens :(
#1
so i bought some CCWs :) and this happens :(
so as the title says i bought some CCWs LM5 18x10 and 18x12 mounted some 245/35 and nitto 315/30 thing are going great I am so happy
so here are some pics before the bad news
now for the bad news, later on that night i went for a test drive. I never really had this much traction before. so I did a few pulls everything seems great, im not saying traction is what caused the malfunction but something caused it.
I mean im only making 530whp and had this 1 piece driveshaft made. there has to be people out there making more power then me with good traction,,,i don't know its been a rough night, thought id share. I guess its time for a driveshaftshop.com drive shaft
so here are some pics before the bad news
now for the bad news, later on that night i went for a test drive. I never really had this much traction before. so I did a few pulls everything seems great, im not saying traction is what caused the malfunction but something caused it.
I mean im only making 530whp and had this 1 piece driveshaft made. there has to be people out there making more power then me with good traction,,,i don't know its been a rough night, thought id share. I guess its time for a driveshaftshop.com drive shaft
#3
Tough break on the driveshaft. I'm sure something malfunctioned and enough torque caused the carnage.
Off topic a bit, is that a Rideskinz rear lip? If so, how did you get it to fit around the license plate area?
Off topic a bit, is that a Rideskinz rear lip? If so, how did you get it to fit around the license plate area?
#4
yes it is a redskinz lip front and rear. had them both installed by and buddy of mine he used rubber urethane to seal it
#5
The riding height was what I was thinking also. I am wondering if the height was enough to put this driveshaft in a bind to cause it to snap and break. What all got damaged? I am making the same power and had zero issues with my 19's down to my TT 17's. I am using the MKIII front, the SC300 auto rear, Grade 8 bolts with lock washers, and a TT center bearing. I have had zero issues. Was all your bolts tight?
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#8
pretty much the only stuff that was damaged is what you see in the pics besides some of the under carriage where the DS piece that was still connected to the rear end was spinning around like crazy. oh and the exhaust was knocked off from every hanger it was connect to. everything is pretty tight on the TT Diff
it doesn't seem like anything was stuck, the ride was very smooth up until the point it snapped.
The DS was newly built by a local drivetrain shop. it was a complete 1 piece with my 2 end piece from my stock DS welded on to a steel tube.
it doesn't seem like anything was stuck, the ride was very smooth up until the point it snapped.
The DS was newly built by a local drivetrain shop. it was a complete 1 piece with my 2 end piece from my stock DS welded on to a steel tube.
#9
Been a while since I've been under my car and im not 100% how the rear mounts but I don't think ride height is going to affect pinion angle due to the IRS. This isn't a solid rear axle setup. If a half shaft had snapped, sure but I think the angles of the driveshaft and rear are static.
I'd march down to the DS shop with it in hand and ask for warranty replacement or my money back.
I'd march down to the DS shop with it in hand and ask for warranty replacement or my money back.
#10
Do you have solid diff bushings on your TT rear ? Solid trans bushing? What was your old tire as it seems you may have spun a lot .. That was the weakest part in your post drivetrain so it gave. Quite possible the driveshaft tubing was at its limits (stress point/unbalanced?) with the new Nitto compound doing its use.
#11
Been a while since I've been under my car and im not 100% how the rear mounts but I don't think ride height is going to affect pinion angle due to the IRS. This isn't a solid rear axle setup. If a half shaft had snapped, sure but I think the angles of the driveshaft and rear are static.
I'd march down to the DS shop with it in hand and ask for warranty replacement or my money back.
I'd march down to the DS shop with it in hand and ask for warranty replacement or my money back.
Do you have solid diff bushings on your TT rear ? Solid trans bushing? What was your old tire as it seems you may have spun a lot .. That was the weakest part in your post drivetrain so it gave. Quite possible the driveshaft tubing was at its limits (stress point/unbalanced?) with the new Nitto compound doing its use.
does anyone think ill have a problem in the future with the piece missing on the tail housing?
Last edited by kinch09; 01-26-14 at 04:22 PM.
#12
No.
If your splines are fine, you're good to go.
That piece won't be an issue, but you need to check if oil will leak from that tail end, because it looks like the breakage is deep into the input shaft seal (is that even a seal?)
If your splines are fine, you're good to go.
That piece won't be an issue, but you need to check if oil will leak from that tail end, because it looks like the breakage is deep into the input shaft seal (is that even a seal?)
#13
From what i can see is that 2 of your tires look to be the wrong tires
Those tires seem to be directional, and both fronts and both rears seem to look identical. So no matter which way you mounted those tires, 1 front and 1 rear was either not facing the right way, or should have been on the other side.
These type of tires have a face to them, what i mean by this is that when you buy them you have to buy them for
Front right, Front Left, Rear Right and Rear Left.
Right there it seems like you have 2 Rear Lefts and 2 Right Fronts.
I may be mistaken but i think this could have been what made it happen
Those tires seem to be directional, and both fronts and both rears seem to look identical. So no matter which way you mounted those tires, 1 front and 1 rear was either not facing the right way, or should have been on the other side.
These type of tires have a face to them, what i mean by this is that when you buy them you have to buy them for
Front right, Front Left, Rear Right and Rear Left.
Right there it seems like you have 2 Rear Lefts and 2 Right Fronts.
I may be mistaken but i think this could have been what made it happen
#14
^ Depending on which side of the vehicle determines which sidewall faces out. The two tires to the left would have one specific sidewall facing outward no matter which side of the vehicle it goes on, the specific side will be marked "Outward facing" or the like while the two on the right depends on which side they go on the vehicle as long as the direction of the tread or rotational arrow on tire is rolling forward toward the front of the vehicle.
Now of course the tires can be mounted wrong. But the tires are correct in the picture. Now I wouldn't have two different brand/ design of tires even though I actually do on my own SC due to money woes. My SC handles differently than when I had four matching tires.
Now of course the tires can be mounted wrong. But the tires are correct in the picture. Now I wouldn't have two different brand/ design of tires even though I actually do on my own SC due to money woes. My SC handles differently than when I had four matching tires.
Last edited by TheAzn; 01-27-14 at 12:37 AM.
#15
With all of this being said, which direction are you thinking of going?
I think you should might consider going with the MKIII front, SC300 rear differential pieces, with a new TT center bearing. See what happens. JMO
I think you should might consider going with the MKIII front, SC300 rear differential pieces, with a new TT center bearing. See what happens. JMO