LED swap questions
#49
Driver School Candidate
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Not for me, but hopefully you have better luck with the superbrightleds flasher. What I've been able to dig up says that the 95+ years use a different style flasher than us 92-94 guys who basically got the short end of the stick as far as ease of upgrading to LEDs.
If that doesn't work you can always modify your existing flasher to work well with the LEDs. I'll post some more pictures if that's what you end up having to do.
If that doesn't work you can always modify your existing flasher to work well with the LEDs. I'll post some more pictures if that's what you end up having to do.
#50
Lexus Champion
Thread Starter
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yea i was thinking i could probably just modify the flasher itself and get it to work. just gotta figure out what the pins in the original flasher are doing.
#52
Driver School Candidate
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Here is an album with an original flasher and my modified one.
http://imgur.com/a/AKMXK
The part that I exchanged for a resistor was the small metal shunt (seen in the first picture) that is used to, as far as I know, check the resistance of the system. Removing it and placing a resistor (as seen in the second picture) will eliminate hyperblink and keep the exact factory flash rate for both indicators and hazards.
I originally had a 1Ohm resistor in place of the shunt. This eliminated hyperblink in all scenarios. I wanted to dial it in to factory spec, meaning that it should hyperblink if a "bulb/LED" is out. That is why I now have a 0.036Ohm resistor in place of the shunt. This allows the lights to hyperblink when a bulb is removed and flash at the proper rate if all bulbs are functioning properly. This step isn't required if you don't want the "hyperblink when a bulb is out" functionality.
Hopefully this clears some things up... Best of luck with the 3 pin that you ordered though. That would be the easiest solution. The above will work well though too if the 3 pin doesn't. Let me know how it all works out anyways.
http://imgur.com/a/AKMXK
The part that I exchanged for a resistor was the small metal shunt (seen in the first picture) that is used to, as far as I know, check the resistance of the system. Removing it and placing a resistor (as seen in the second picture) will eliminate hyperblink and keep the exact factory flash rate for both indicators and hazards.
I originally had a 1Ohm resistor in place of the shunt. This eliminated hyperblink in all scenarios. I wanted to dial it in to factory spec, meaning that it should hyperblink if a "bulb/LED" is out. That is why I now have a 0.036Ohm resistor in place of the shunt. This allows the lights to hyperblink when a bulb is removed and flash at the proper rate if all bulbs are functioning properly. This step isn't required if you don't want the "hyperblink when a bulb is out" functionality.
Hopefully this clears some things up... Best of luck with the 3 pin that you ordered though. That would be the easiest solution. The above will work well though too if the 3 pin doesn't. Let me know how it all works out anyways.
#59
Lexus Champion
Thread Starter
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got a 10 ohm resistor from radio shack, got any tips on removing the shunt? trying to desolder it out is taking forever, my soldering iron probably just sucks. how'd you do it?