95+ Piezo Beep Lock/Unlock - Flashing parking lights
#1
95+ Piezo Beep Lock/Unlock - Flashing parking lights
In my continuing quest to find a 12V source that is only triggered by the remote to flash the parking lights, I thought to use the piezo beep in the wheel well. I thought that maybe it pulsed 12V once on lock (one beep) and twice on unlock, but it turns out that that's not how it works. As I attempt to write out what I found it makes less and less sense.
There are two wires to the piezo, and BOTH get +5V unlock and unlock - one of the wires is not a ground. This doesn't explain how the unlock beeps twice, and the only thing I can think is that the ECU sends two pulses ONLY to this wire (remember that the single unlock on the remote only unlocks the driver door).
I was going to run a 12V relay from the piezo signal, but you can't trigger a 12V relay from a 5V source. Besides, the piezo gets it's source from two wires so that just complicates it. You could be some sort of 5V step up electronic gizmo but that's beyond my knowledge, or have two relays, a 5V that triggers a 12V, but I don't now how to wire that either since 5V relays don't have large connectors like on a 12V auto relay.
As to getting the lights to flash from the unlock/lock triggers in the kickpanel, the problem there is that every time you manually unlocked/locked the doors with the door control, the lights would flash, so that's not an option.
There's GOT to be somewhere in the car that sends 12V out by REMOTE only on BOTH unlock and lock - either a ground or +12V.
An aftermarket alarm obviously has a dedicated 12V out for flashing the horn or lights and obviously the 1998+ cars have an ECU that can handle this. I just don't want to use an aftermarket alarm.
Another
There are two wires to the piezo, and BOTH get +5V unlock and unlock - one of the wires is not a ground. This doesn't explain how the unlock beeps twice, and the only thing I can think is that the ECU sends two pulses ONLY to this wire (remember that the single unlock on the remote only unlocks the driver door).
I was going to run a 12V relay from the piezo signal, but you can't trigger a 12V relay from a 5V source. Besides, the piezo gets it's source from two wires so that just complicates it. You could be some sort of 5V step up electronic gizmo but that's beyond my knowledge, or have two relays, a 5V that triggers a 12V, but I don't now how to wire that either since 5V relays don't have large connectors like on a 12V auto relay.
As to getting the lights to flash from the unlock/lock triggers in the kickpanel, the problem there is that every time you manually unlocked/locked the doors with the door control, the lights would flash, so that's not an option.
There's GOT to be somewhere in the car that sends 12V out by REMOTE only on BOTH unlock and lock - either a ground or +12V.
An aftermarket alarm obviously has a dedicated 12V out for flashing the horn or lights and obviously the 1998+ cars have an ECU that can handle this. I just don't want to use an aftermarket alarm.
Another
#2
It really shouldn't be too difficult swapping in a 98+ unit. May have to run some wires but not a huge deal. I put a 96 wireless ecu in my 95 and i think I had to switch like 2 wires in the pigtail. I still have to run the trunk pop into the harness but thats easy.
#4
For the OP, here are the wiring differences between the 3 "generations" of 92-00 SC
http://pogoism9.com/SC/wireless/95_wireless.pdf
http://pogoism9.com/SC/wireless/96_wireless.pdf
http://pogoism9.com/SC/wireless/99_wireless.pdf
This should get you on the right track. On the 92-95 the chirp is from pin1 of the Wireless ECU and the other pin grounds. On the 96+ both of the leads on the buzzer are directly from the WDL ecu
#5
To further the discussion, it looks like you run the wire from pin 4 of the 99 wireless ecu directly to the wire coming out of pin 2 of the Tail relay and that will fire the lights with lock/unlock. The downfall is, you have to have the same transmitter from the 99, and that is built into the key, along with that nice lovely immobilizer chip....
On the 92-97 cars couldn't you run a wire from the lock and unlock pins on the wireless ecu with a diode inline that tap into pin 2 of the tail relay? That seems like it would fire the relay on a lock or unlock pulse as long as it's 12V, the diode would make it essentially a 1 way signal. It's dirty but it might work. You could also use a feed off the theft ECU as well, like the pulse that fires the door locks themselves.
On the 92-97 cars couldn't you run a wire from the lock and unlock pins on the wireless ecu with a diode inline that tap into pin 2 of the tail relay? That seems like it would fire the relay on a lock or unlock pulse as long as it's 12V, the diode would make it essentially a 1 way signal. It's dirty but it might work. You could also use a feed off the theft ECU as well, like the pulse that fires the door locks themselves.
Last edited by pogoism9; 06-26-15 at 07:55 PM.
#6
That's the only way I can think to do it - come directly from the first source of 12V from the remote box. I thought of just running directly from the blue drive kickpanel plug with the unlock/lock, but like I said, every time you manually hit the lock switch the lights will flash.
And the wireless ECU is on the back seat pillar passenger side right? I just wish I could find that wire somewhere closer to the dash or something so I don't have to dig out the back seats and panels and run a wire all over.
On the 92-97 cars couldn't you run a wire from the lock and unlock pins on the wireless ecu with a diode inline that tap into pin 2 of the tail relay? That seems like it would fire the relay on a lock or unlock pulse as long as it's 12V, the diode would make it essentially a 1 way signal. It's dirty but it might work. You could also use a feed off the theft ECU as well, like the pulse that fires the door locks themselves.
And the wireless ECU is on the back seat pillar passenger side right? I just wish I could find that wire somewhere closer to the dash or something so I don't have to dig out the back seats and panels and run a wire all over.
On the 92-97 cars couldn't you run a wire from the lock and unlock pins on the wireless ecu with a diode inline that tap into pin 2 of the tail relay? That seems like it would fire the relay on a lock or unlock pulse as long as it's 12V, the diode would make it essentially a 1 way signal. It's dirty but it might work. You could also use a feed off the theft ECU as well, like the pulse that fires the door locks themselves.
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#8
ISFFUN, I don't know if this will help you get exactly what you want or not but take a look at an aftermarket beep/flash/lock-unlock module made by KP Technologies. "Item # EB20"
I picked one of these up a couple of years ago to install into my car. I've been too busy to set about wiring it up but it was the only such unit that seemed to fit the bill for me.
It may actually be easier if your car beeps from the factory and all you want is to add sequenced flashing to your parking lights. It might be better to get a trigger from your door lock relay or to install a piggyback relay on your door lock ECU. The KP unit I have specifically asks for a relay trigger for the "lock" signal and a separate relay trigger for the "unlock" signal.
Sorry I can't offer more details. That's just from the paper manual it comes with.
I picked one of these up a couple of years ago to install into my car. I've been too busy to set about wiring it up but it was the only such unit that seemed to fit the bill for me.
It may actually be easier if your car beeps from the factory and all you want is to add sequenced flashing to your parking lights. It might be better to get a trigger from your door lock relay or to install a piggyback relay on your door lock ECU. The KP unit I have specifically asks for a relay trigger for the "lock" signal and a separate relay trigger for the "unlock" signal.
Sorry I can't offer more details. That's just from the paper manual it comes with.
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