So, I just brought this home...
11-14-15, 07:15 AM
#17
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
Thanks guys.
I ended up buying neither of the kits linked above. Went with this instead http://www.ebay.com/itm/190670987948?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
More money but a small price to pay for peace of mind. Parts came quick, ordered on Tuesday, arrived on Thursday. I'll be starting it today, will let you know how it all goes.
Haven't done anything else to it except for a few of the small things already mentioned. Just been reading forums for info and going down to the garage to admire it
and come up with various plans of action.
With the oil leak, I've only driven it around the neighborhood. Everything feels good so far. Once the oil leak/timing belt/water pump stuff is taken care of I'll be taking a closer look at all of the suspension/steering components, then get it on the interstate for a run down. If all of that checks out and the car shows to be safe and reliable, there'll be an audio build coming.
I've got 4 Infinity REF860Ws left over from a previous build that didn't happen. I'm pretty determined to find a way to get all 4 in the rear deck with an enclosure which will probably be a combination of wood and fiberglass. Also thinking of modifying the front door panels and building enclosures for B&C 8BG51 woofers and SEAS Prestige 27TFFNC/G (H1396) tweeters in the factory locations up front. I usually do 3 way front stages but will probably start with the 2 way this time. Processing will be through a MiniDSP. Amps are all HiFonics Series VIII. A Zeus on the subs, either a Boltar or Thor on the mids and a Jupiter on the tweeters. I have everything but the B&Cs. The headunit, for now, will remain the Kenwood double din that the car came with when I bought it. Eventually, I'll probably go with a tablet with digital out all the way to the DSP. This should be a lot of fun.
I ended up buying neither of the kits linked above. Went with this instead http://www.ebay.com/itm/190670987948?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
More money but a small price to pay for peace of mind. Parts came quick, ordered on Tuesday, arrived on Thursday. I'll be starting it today, will let you know how it all goes.
Haven't done anything else to it except for a few of the small things already mentioned. Just been reading forums for info and going down to the garage to admire it
and come up with various plans of action.With the oil leak, I've only driven it around the neighborhood. Everything feels good so far. Once the oil leak/timing belt/water pump stuff is taken care of I'll be taking a closer look at all of the suspension/steering components, then get it on the interstate for a run down. If all of that checks out and the car shows to be safe and reliable, there'll be an audio build coming.
I've got 4 Infinity REF860Ws left over from a previous build that didn't happen. I'm pretty determined to find a way to get all 4 in the rear deck with an enclosure which will probably be a combination of wood and fiberglass. Also thinking of modifying the front door panels and building enclosures for B&C 8BG51 woofers and SEAS Prestige 27TFFNC/G (H1396) tweeters in the factory locations up front. I usually do 3 way front stages but will probably start with the 2 way this time. Processing will be through a MiniDSP. Amps are all HiFonics Series VIII. A Zeus on the subs, either a Boltar or Thor on the mids and a Jupiter on the tweeters. I have everything but the B&Cs. The headunit, for now, will remain the Kenwood double din that the car came with when I bought it. Eventually, I'll probably go with a tablet with digital out all the way to the DSP. This should be a lot of fun.
11-14-15, 07:19 AM
#18
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
Alan, thanks, I may just contact you about some things. I'm in the Nashville area, what part of KY are you in? I was just in Louisville this week for work.
11-14-15, 08:02 AM
#20
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
Probably. Its already got Megan coilovers, straight through exhaust and drilled/slotted rotors all around...maybe an LS400 brake upgrade at some point. Thinking about a BFI to start and I'd like to an LSD. Time will tell once I get to actually drive it a while and find what it's lacking.
Aside from boost, what would you suggest?
Aside from boost, what would you suggest?
11-14-15, 09:22 PM
#21
Probably. Its already got Megan coilovers, straight through exhaust and drilled/slotted rotors all around...maybe an LS400 brake upgrade at some point. Thinking about a BFI to start and I'd like to an LSD. Time will tell once I get to actually drive it a while and find what it's lacking.
Aside from boost, what would you suggest?
Aside from boost, what would you suggest?
If you want boost its just easier to motor swap it.
11-15-15, 01:40 PM
#22
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: KY
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I'm just outside Bowling Green Ky...not far at all...I pm'd you my phone number if you have any questions or whatever, just txt me...
Last edited by alanflies; 11-15-15 at 01:45 PM.
11-18-15, 11:49 AM
#25
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
11-18-15, 11:52 AM
#26
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
I'll be keeping the 8 for now. It's quick enough for now, might think about a TT or SC the 8 in the future. I just have a thing for V8s.
12-08-15, 07:31 PM
#27
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
Haven't updated this in a while, so here's some things that have gone down in the last few weeks...
I did the timing belt/idlers/tensioner job, along with the water pump, thermostat, front main seal, cam seals, distributor caps/rotors, plugs and ignition wires. It was all a success as it fired right up with no leaks what so ever.
Overall, the car's been running well and it's a lot of fun. I did have a couple of little bugs show up, though. The first one was that my speedo/odometer and cruise weren't working. A new VSS #1 fixed those so, yay.
Power mirrors weren't working and I figured it was probably the mirror ECU. Looking into it, unplugging the harness from the driver's side switch plate and plugging them back in got them working again. Dirty contacts, cleaned them up and now they're fine. Another YAY, this time free so that gets a double YAY.
Then, in an attempt to squash another bug I killed my MAF. The car had a slight hesitation between 1-2k RPM, and only when driven lightly. If I stomped on it it was fine. I thought it would be a good idea to clean my MAF and after reading all of the problems people have had spraying CRC in it, I took it out and gently cleaned it with some soapy water and a paper towel which was barely damp. Anyway, it appears as my efforts were a bad idea as it now has a very strong hesitation in low RPMs and the check engine light and trac light are trurning on and off. They will light at idle, then go away as I accelerate and drive down the road, only to return when coming to a stop. Booger. These MAFs are expensive.
It also has what seems to be a torque converter lock up issue. When cruising down the street it 4th, the RPM sits right around 1800-2000 which, if I'm not mistaken, is right about where the TC should be locking. What happens is, depending on load, like if I start up a gentle incline and give it a little bit of throttle or let off a little, the RPM will jump 1-200 up or down. The trans isn't shifting, it seems as the TC is locking/unlocking abruptly. I'm hoping this is something like the lockup solenoid and not the TC itself. Someone suggested I replace the trans filter and that's something I plan on doing anyway. Any thoughts?
I did the timing belt/idlers/tensioner job, along with the water pump, thermostat, front main seal, cam seals, distributor caps/rotors, plugs and ignition wires. It was all a success as it fired right up with no leaks what so ever.
Overall, the car's been running well and it's a lot of fun. I did have a couple of little bugs show up, though. The first one was that my speedo/odometer and cruise weren't working. A new VSS #1 fixed those so, yay.
Power mirrors weren't working and I figured it was probably the mirror ECU. Looking into it, unplugging the harness from the driver's side switch plate and plugging them back in got them working again. Dirty contacts, cleaned them up and now they're fine. Another YAY, this time free so that gets a double YAY.
Then, in an attempt to squash another bug I killed my MAF. The car had a slight hesitation between 1-2k RPM, and only when driven lightly. If I stomped on it it was fine. I thought it would be a good idea to clean my MAF and after reading all of the problems people have had spraying CRC in it, I took it out and gently cleaned it with some soapy water and a paper towel which was barely damp. Anyway, it appears as my efforts were a bad idea as it now has a very strong hesitation in low RPMs and the check engine light and trac light are trurning on and off. They will light at idle, then go away as I accelerate and drive down the road, only to return when coming to a stop. Booger. These MAFs are expensive.
It also has what seems to be a torque converter lock up issue. When cruising down the street it 4th, the RPM sits right around 1800-2000 which, if I'm not mistaken, is right about where the TC should be locking. What happens is, depending on load, like if I start up a gentle incline and give it a little bit of throttle or let off a little, the RPM will jump 1-200 up or down. The trans isn't shifting, it seems as the TC is locking/unlocking abruptly. I'm hoping this is something like the lockup solenoid and not the TC itself. Someone suggested I replace the trans filter and that's something I plan on doing anyway. Any thoughts?
12-09-15, 01:34 PM
#29
Let me know if you find it to be the module bad, I may have one. I just stripped out one SC and won't need that module since it is now a full race set up. But, come to think of it I might need to keep it for the other SC I have. But if you really need one I would probably part with it.
12-09-15, 07:31 PM
#30
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
So, it looks like I got really lucky. After cleaning the MAF and ending up with problems, I let the car sit for a day or 2. Started it up today and drove around and it's fine again. Runs exactly as it did before I cleaned the MAF and no more check engine and trac lights flashing. I'm guessing there was still some water/soap in some of the grooves preventing it from an accurate reading and then it dried up while parked.
It does still have the light hesitation as it did before the MAF and, yes, it is right around 1400 RPM, roughly. I did order a pair of coils so, hopefully that will fix it.
It does still have the light hesitation as it did before the MAF and, yes, it is right around 1400 RPM, roughly. I did order a pair of coils so, hopefully that will fix it.