getting at the fuel pump in an SC3
04-13-03, 02:37 PM
#1
getting at the fuel pump in an SC3
I need an idea of how to get the rear seat trim out to get to the fuel pump 
I can't seem to find where ican start unbolting the rear seats and stuff... is there a piece of trim i need to move that i'm just not seeing?
someone respond soon as you can; i'm installing the fuel pump now ahead of time
I can't seem to find where ican start unbolting the rear seats and stuff... is there a piece of trim i need to move that i'm just not seeing?someone respond soon as you can; i'm installing the fuel pump now ahead of time
04-13-03, 05:35 PM
#3
nevermind got it installed
information for those going in my steps with a DIY turbo install:
the back seats come in two pieces... first you have to pop the bottom seat loose... it is held by clips and is pretty easy to pull up... its only two clips as far as i could tell...
once you remove the bottom piece; you must unbolt the top piece... there are 3 12mm bolts holding metal clips down to the chassis... once these are unbolted you can pry the bottom part of the seat up; then push the whole seat up (there are 3 hinges holding it in and this method after working with it a bit will get it removed)
after you remove the back seats then you need to relieve the fuel pressure... crank the car and pull the fuel pump relay... its under a black box with plastic screws on the driver side of the car... its the big round fuse and is labelled 'EFI Fuse' on the relay map on the box top... do this while the car is running...
the car should die; after the engine dies; open your gas tank and unscrew the cap to relieve tank pressure...
disconnect the negative battery cable after you have the front seats slid forward enough so you can fit back there; you'll be sitting there for a little while
Pulling the pump
-----------------------
there is a circular panel in the middle of the back seat area... get a thin flathead screw driver and pry it off; its got some sticky stuff on it and will come off easily...
there are 9 or 10 phillips head screws holding the tank in; unscrew all of them; and don't be alarmed if it makes a weird howling/unsealing sound
you should be able to pull the cover off now; you will have to clip the two wires on the BOTTOM of the cover (not the two on the top); keep track of them tho, there are two wires; one goes down to the fuel pump clip itself and it is the positive wire; and the other wire goes to a small black box on the top of the fuel pump assembly arm... you'll see what i mean...
there are 3 10mm bolts holding the fuel pump assembly in place; along with a small rubber fuel hose with two brass clamps on it...
the EASIEST way to get it off is to unbolt the 3 bolts and then slide the bottom brass clamp down and off and onto the fuel pump assembly fuel line... after this wiggle the brass line off of the rubber hose slowly; letting the excess fuel dribble into the fuel tank...
have a rag handy just in case
after the fuel has dribbled out and you've got the brass fuel line disconnected from the fuel hose; pull the whole fuel pump assembly out and place it upon the ground (its a good idea to put it on a piece of cardboard or newspaper to keep any sand or other particles getting onto it...
you should be able to pry the rubber fuel pump isolator and fuel pump off of the bottom of the brace; then just slide the brass clamp up the fuel line and pull the fuel pump off... i'd keep the rubber hose on top of the fuel pump unless yours is in bad shape; mine was in perfect shape after 137k miles
now look at the stock fuel pump harness clip... if you look from the top you'll see which one is positive and which one is negative... the positive wire should already be clipped (and like a good boy you labelled it in the car so you know which one to hook it back up to)
clip the negative wire and pull the whole fuel pump off...
take your new harness; plug it into the new pump and clip the wires on the new harness to an appropriate length...
my kit came with 2 butt connectors; you actually need 3... hook a butt connector up to the negative side of the clip and reconnect it back with the stock negative/ground wire...
then place a seperate butt connector on the positive wire and then on the wire that comes out of the black box...
i exposed about 1/4" of wire on each wire for each side of the butt connector... MAKE SURE they are connected VERY well in these butt connectors; and crimp them HARD; don't let any wire show (why i only cut it back 1/4")
place the new fuel pump with the new fuel pump isolator and filter onto the base of the assembly and connect the fuel line of your choice to the brass fuel line; prolly good to just reuse the stock brass clamps
once the fuel pump is mounted well and steady; you should have two wires total coming off the fuel pump assembly; the negative side of the clip should already be reconnected... what you have left is the positive side of the clip and the wire coming out of the small black box
place the fuel pump assembly back into the tank (make sure you have the brass fitting from before so you can reconnect the assembly to the stock brass lines
now with your two butt connectors already in place; reconnect the appropriate wires to the fuel pump assembly; remember to crimp hard and get a good secure connection
once these are done; remount the fuel line hose with the fuel pump assembly fuel line and reconnect the brass clamp to hold it in...
bolt the 3 10mm bolts back onto the fuel pump assembly and make sure everything is good and tight...
take the fuel tank cover and place it over the tank and get all 9-10 phillips head screws and screw it back down....
reconnect the negative cable on the battery; and then reconnect the EFI relay and close your gas cap and tank
give the car a test start... the first start will prolly be boggy and rough... lots of smoke lines are getting repressurized and the ECU was just reset... i had to give mine about 3 or 4 good revs... and it settled at about a 400-500rpm idle and slowly idled up to 800 or so...
if your car runs great; sweet... if not your wiring is prolly incorrect; you may wanna recheck it
get the circular panel and place it back over the hole and make sure the sticky stuff stays stuck to it... then reinstall the seats opposite of removal... i have to get my seat tops restiched so i left em out for a while...
the walbro 255 is kinda loud; so don't get nervous
after you let the car idle for a while give it a test drive around the neighborhood; get on it and everything; gotta test that hoe out
Congrats, you just installed a fuel pump
information for those going in my steps with a DIY turbo install:
the back seats come in two pieces... first you have to pop the bottom seat loose... it is held by clips and is pretty easy to pull up... its only two clips as far as i could tell...
once you remove the bottom piece; you must unbolt the top piece... there are 3 12mm bolts holding metal clips down to the chassis... once these are unbolted you can pry the bottom part of the seat up; then push the whole seat up (there are 3 hinges holding it in and this method after working with it a bit will get it removed)
after you remove the back seats then you need to relieve the fuel pressure... crank the car and pull the fuel pump relay... its under a black box with plastic screws on the driver side of the car... its the big round fuse and is labelled 'EFI Fuse' on the relay map on the box top... do this while the car is running...
the car should die; after the engine dies; open your gas tank and unscrew the cap to relieve tank pressure...
disconnect the negative battery cable after you have the front seats slid forward enough so you can fit back there; you'll be sitting there for a little while
Pulling the pump
-----------------------
there is a circular panel in the middle of the back seat area... get a thin flathead screw driver and pry it off; its got some sticky stuff on it and will come off easily...
there are 9 or 10 phillips head screws holding the tank in; unscrew all of them; and don't be alarmed if it makes a weird howling/unsealing sound
you should be able to pull the cover off now; you will have to clip the two wires on the BOTTOM of the cover (not the two on the top); keep track of them tho, there are two wires; one goes down to the fuel pump clip itself and it is the positive wire; and the other wire goes to a small black box on the top of the fuel pump assembly arm... you'll see what i mean...
there are 3 10mm bolts holding the fuel pump assembly in place; along with a small rubber fuel hose with two brass clamps on it...
the EASIEST way to get it off is to unbolt the 3 bolts and then slide the bottom brass clamp down and off and onto the fuel pump assembly fuel line... after this wiggle the brass line off of the rubber hose slowly; letting the excess fuel dribble into the fuel tank...
have a rag handy just in case
after the fuel has dribbled out and you've got the brass fuel line disconnected from the fuel hose; pull the whole fuel pump assembly out and place it upon the ground (its a good idea to put it on a piece of cardboard or newspaper to keep any sand or other particles getting onto it...
you should be able to pry the rubber fuel pump isolator and fuel pump off of the bottom of the brace; then just slide the brass clamp up the fuel line and pull the fuel pump off... i'd keep the rubber hose on top of the fuel pump unless yours is in bad shape; mine was in perfect shape after 137k miles
now look at the stock fuel pump harness clip... if you look from the top you'll see which one is positive and which one is negative... the positive wire should already be clipped (and like a good boy you labelled it in the car so you know which one to hook it back up to)
clip the negative wire and pull the whole fuel pump off...
take your new harness; plug it into the new pump and clip the wires on the new harness to an appropriate length...
my kit came with 2 butt connectors; you actually need 3... hook a butt connector up to the negative side of the clip and reconnect it back with the stock negative/ground wire...
then place a seperate butt connector on the positive wire and then on the wire that comes out of the black box...
i exposed about 1/4" of wire on each wire for each side of the butt connector... MAKE SURE they are connected VERY well in these butt connectors; and crimp them HARD; don't let any wire show (why i only cut it back 1/4")
place the new fuel pump with the new fuel pump isolator and filter onto the base of the assembly and connect the fuel line of your choice to the brass fuel line; prolly good to just reuse the stock brass clamps
once the fuel pump is mounted well and steady; you should have two wires total coming off the fuel pump assembly; the negative side of the clip should already be reconnected... what you have left is the positive side of the clip and the wire coming out of the small black box
place the fuel pump assembly back into the tank (make sure you have the brass fitting from before so you can reconnect the assembly to the stock brass lines
now with your two butt connectors already in place; reconnect the appropriate wires to the fuel pump assembly; remember to crimp hard and get a good secure connection
once these are done; remount the fuel line hose with the fuel pump assembly fuel line and reconnect the brass clamp to hold it in...
bolt the 3 10mm bolts back onto the fuel pump assembly and make sure everything is good and tight...
take the fuel tank cover and place it over the tank and get all 9-10 phillips head screws and screw it back down....
reconnect the negative cable on the battery; and then reconnect the EFI relay and close your gas cap and tank
give the car a test start... the first start will prolly be boggy and rough... lots of smoke
lines are getting repressurized and the ECU was just reset... i had to give mine about 3 or 4 good revs... and it settled at about a 400-500rpm idle and slowly idled up to 800 or so...if your car runs great; sweet... if not your wiring is prolly incorrect; you may wanna recheck it
get the circular panel and place it back over the hole and make sure the sticky stuff stays stuck to it... then reinstall the seats opposite of removal... i have to get my seat tops restiched so i left em out for a while...
the walbro 255 is kinda loud; so don't get nervous
after you let the car idle for a while give it a test drive around the neighborhood; get on it and everything; gotta test that hoe out
Congrats, you just installed a fuel pump
Last edited by Bean; 04-13-03 at 05:41 PM.
02-03-04, 01:34 PM
#4
Chicago Lexus Club Moderator
Originally posted by Bean
nevermind got it installed
information for those going in my steps with a DIY turbo install:
the back seats come in two pieces... first you have to pop the bottom seat loose... it is held by clips and is pretty easy to pull up... its only two clips as far as i could tell...
once you remove the bottom piece; you must unbolt the top piece... there are 3 12mm bolts holding metal clips down to the chassis... once these are unbolted you can pry the bottom part of the seat up; then push the whole seat up (there are 3 hinges holding it in and this method after working with it a bit will get it removed)
after you remove the back seats then you need to relieve the fuel pressure... crank the car and pull the fuel pump relay... its under a black box with plastic screws on the driver side of the car... its the big round fuse and is labelled 'EFI Fuse' on the relay map on the box top... do this while the car is running...
the car should die; after the engine dies; open your gas tank and unscrew the cap to relieve tank pressure...
disconnect the negative battery cable after you have the front seats slid forward enough so you can fit back there; you'll be sitting there for a little while
Pulling the pump
-----------------------
there is a circular panel in the middle of the back seat area... get a thin flathead screw driver and pry it off; its got some sticky stuff on it and will come off easily...
there are 9 or 10 phillips head screws holding the tank in; unscrew all of them; and don't be alarmed if it makes a weird howling/unsealing sound
you should be able to pull the cover off now; you will have to clip the two wires on the BOTTOM of the cover (not the two on the top); keep track of them tho, there are two wires; one goes down to the fuel pump clip itself and it is the positive wire; and the other wire goes to a small black box on the top of the fuel pump assembly arm... you'll see what i mean...
there are 3 10mm bolts holding the fuel pump assembly in place; along with a small rubber fuel hose with two brass clamps on it...
the EASIEST way to get it off is to unbolt the 3 bolts and then slide the bottom brass clamp down and off and onto the fuel pump assembly fuel line... after this wiggle the brass line off of the rubber hose slowly; letting the excess fuel dribble into the fuel tank...
have a rag handy just in case
after the fuel has dribbled out and you've got the brass fuel line disconnected from the fuel hose; pull the whole fuel pump assembly out and place it upon the ground (its a good idea to put it on a piece of cardboard or newspaper to keep any sand or other particles getting onto it...
you should be able to pry the rubber fuel pump isolator and fuel pump off of the bottom of the brace; then just slide the brass clamp up the fuel line and pull the fuel pump off... i'd keep the rubber hose on top of the fuel pump unless yours is in bad shape; mine was in perfect shape after 137k miles
now look at the stock fuel pump harness clip... if you look from the top you'll see which one is positive and which one is negative... the positive wire should already be clipped (and like a good boy you labelled it in the car so you know which one to hook it back up to)
clip the negative wire and pull the whole fuel pump off...
take your new harness; plug it into the new pump and clip the wires on the new harness to an appropriate length...
my kit came with 2 butt connectors; you actually need 3... hook a butt connector up to the negative side of the clip and reconnect it back with the stock negative/ground wire...
then place a seperate butt connector on the positive wire and then on the wire that comes out of the black box...
i exposed about 1/4" of wire on each wire for each side of the butt connector... MAKE SURE they are connected VERY well in these butt connectors; and crimp them HARD; don't let any wire show (why i only cut it back 1/4")
place the new fuel pump with the new fuel pump isolator and filter onto the base of the assembly and connect the fuel line of your choice to the brass fuel line; prolly good to just reuse the stock brass clamps
once the fuel pump is mounted well and steady; you should have two wires total coming off the fuel pump assembly; the negative side of the clip should already be reconnected... what you have left is the positive side of the clip and the wire coming out of the small black box
place the fuel pump assembly back into the tank (make sure you have the brass fitting from before so you can reconnect the assembly to the stock brass lines
now with your two butt connectors already in place; reconnect the appropriate wires to the fuel pump assembly; remember to crimp hard and get a good secure connection
once these are done; remount the fuel line hose with the fuel pump assembly fuel line and reconnect the brass clamp to hold it in...
bolt the 3 10mm bolts back onto the fuel pump assembly and make sure everything is good and tight...
take the fuel tank cover and place it over the tank and get all 9-10 phillips head screws and screw it back down....
reconnect the negative cable on the battery; and then reconnect the EFI relay and close your gas cap and tank
give the car a test start... the first start will prolly be boggy and rough... lots of smoke lines are getting repressurized and the ECU was just reset... i had to give mine about 3 or 4 good revs... and it settled at about a 400-500rpm idle and slowly idled up to 800 or so...
if your car runs great; sweet... if not your wiring is prolly incorrect; you may wanna recheck it
get the circular panel and place it back over the hole and make sure the sticky stuff stays stuck to it... then reinstall the seats opposite of removal... i have to get my seat tops restiched so i left em out for a while...
the walbro 255 is kinda loud; so don't get nervous
after you let the car idle for a while give it a test drive around the neighborhood; get on it and everything; gotta test that hoe out
Congrats, you just installed a fuel pump
nevermind got it installed
information for those going in my steps with a DIY turbo install:
the back seats come in two pieces... first you have to pop the bottom seat loose... it is held by clips and is pretty easy to pull up... its only two clips as far as i could tell...
once you remove the bottom piece; you must unbolt the top piece... there are 3 12mm bolts holding metal clips down to the chassis... once these are unbolted you can pry the bottom part of the seat up; then push the whole seat up (there are 3 hinges holding it in and this method after working with it a bit will get it removed)
after you remove the back seats then you need to relieve the fuel pressure... crank the car and pull the fuel pump relay... its under a black box with plastic screws on the driver side of the car... its the big round fuse and is labelled 'EFI Fuse' on the relay map on the box top... do this while the car is running...
the car should die; after the engine dies; open your gas tank and unscrew the cap to relieve tank pressure...
disconnect the negative battery cable after you have the front seats slid forward enough so you can fit back there; you'll be sitting there for a little while
Pulling the pump
-----------------------
there is a circular panel in the middle of the back seat area... get a thin flathead screw driver and pry it off; its got some sticky stuff on it and will come off easily...
there are 9 or 10 phillips head screws holding the tank in; unscrew all of them; and don't be alarmed if it makes a weird howling/unsealing sound
you should be able to pull the cover off now; you will have to clip the two wires on the BOTTOM of the cover (not the two on the top); keep track of them tho, there are two wires; one goes down to the fuel pump clip itself and it is the positive wire; and the other wire goes to a small black box on the top of the fuel pump assembly arm... you'll see what i mean...
there are 3 10mm bolts holding the fuel pump assembly in place; along with a small rubber fuel hose with two brass clamps on it...
the EASIEST way to get it off is to unbolt the 3 bolts and then slide the bottom brass clamp down and off and onto the fuel pump assembly fuel line... after this wiggle the brass line off of the rubber hose slowly; letting the excess fuel dribble into the fuel tank...
have a rag handy just in case
after the fuel has dribbled out and you've got the brass fuel line disconnected from the fuel hose; pull the whole fuel pump assembly out and place it upon the ground (its a good idea to put it on a piece of cardboard or newspaper to keep any sand or other particles getting onto it...
you should be able to pry the rubber fuel pump isolator and fuel pump off of the bottom of the brace; then just slide the brass clamp up the fuel line and pull the fuel pump off... i'd keep the rubber hose on top of the fuel pump unless yours is in bad shape; mine was in perfect shape after 137k miles
now look at the stock fuel pump harness clip... if you look from the top you'll see which one is positive and which one is negative... the positive wire should already be clipped (and like a good boy you labelled it in the car so you know which one to hook it back up to)
clip the negative wire and pull the whole fuel pump off...
take your new harness; plug it into the new pump and clip the wires on the new harness to an appropriate length...
my kit came with 2 butt connectors; you actually need 3... hook a butt connector up to the negative side of the clip and reconnect it back with the stock negative/ground wire...
then place a seperate butt connector on the positive wire and then on the wire that comes out of the black box...
i exposed about 1/4" of wire on each wire for each side of the butt connector... MAKE SURE they are connected VERY well in these butt connectors; and crimp them HARD; don't let any wire show (why i only cut it back 1/4")
place the new fuel pump with the new fuel pump isolator and filter onto the base of the assembly and connect the fuel line of your choice to the brass fuel line; prolly good to just reuse the stock brass clamps
once the fuel pump is mounted well and steady; you should have two wires total coming off the fuel pump assembly; the negative side of the clip should already be reconnected... what you have left is the positive side of the clip and the wire coming out of the small black box
place the fuel pump assembly back into the tank (make sure you have the brass fitting from before so you can reconnect the assembly to the stock brass lines
now with your two butt connectors already in place; reconnect the appropriate wires to the fuel pump assembly; remember to crimp hard and get a good secure connection
once these are done; remount the fuel line hose with the fuel pump assembly fuel line and reconnect the brass clamp to hold it in...
bolt the 3 10mm bolts back onto the fuel pump assembly and make sure everything is good and tight...
take the fuel tank cover and place it over the tank and get all 9-10 phillips head screws and screw it back down....
reconnect the negative cable on the battery; and then reconnect the EFI relay and close your gas cap and tank
give the car a test start... the first start will prolly be boggy and rough... lots of smoke
lines are getting repressurized and the ECU was just reset... i had to give mine about 3 or 4 good revs... and it settled at about a 400-500rpm idle and slowly idled up to 800 or so...if your car runs great; sweet... if not your wiring is prolly incorrect; you may wanna recheck it
get the circular panel and place it back over the hole and make sure the sticky stuff stays stuck to it... then reinstall the seats opposite of removal... i have to get my seat tops restiched so i left em out for a while...
the walbro 255 is kinda loud; so don't get nervous
after you let the car idle for a while give it a test drive around the neighborhood; get on it and everything; gotta test that hoe out
Congrats, you just installed a fuel pump
Which Walbro are you running? I looked and you didn't mention which model you have. Is it? 341 or 342?
Chris
Last edited by DIrEctQL; 02-03-04 at 01:36 PM.
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02-04-04, 08:53 AM
#8
Chicago Lexus Club Moderator
Originally posted by BoostCrazy
I believe it is the GSS341. I am running two of these in my car.
Andrew
I believe it is the GSS341. I am running two of these in my car.
Andrew
Chris
Last edited by DIrEctQL; 02-04-04 at 08:54 AM.
02-04-04, 09:20 AM
#9
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Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Pennsylvania
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Originally posted by DIrEctQL
Yep, I IMed Bean he confirmed it's the 341. Everyone always says 255 lph... but that's just the flow rate I belive.
Chris
Yep, I IMed Bean he confirmed it's the 341. Everyone always says 255 lph... but that's just the flow rate I belive.
Chris
02-04-04, 06:11 PM
#13
Gazi.....I used a piece of dynamat over the access cover to the tank, yhen i used a piece of hotrod(noise) insulation cut to fit behind the back seat. Cant hear mine at all. Hope this helps.
gadgetSC-t
gadgetSC-t
02-04-04, 06:42 PM
#15
I'm running twin walbro's in my sc. I have one 341 in there and I think the other is a 340. Each flow the same, pretty sure the only difference is configuratino of the fuel filter bag.) With the seat off, it's LOUD!!!! I mean LOUD!!!
I'll probably try lay some dynamat down to help reduce that noise. Although, that means added weight
I'll probably try lay some dynamat down to help reduce that noise. Although, that means added weight