Sound deadening questions
11-08-03, 12:05 AM
#31
Keeper of the light
iTrader: (17)
The fiberglass actually was a redeeming quality needed in my measurements. by doing that, you are just using factory dampening and not getting the effect of the panther and it's purpose. the fiberglass isn't hard to work with, if you are allergic to touching it, get some gloves and a long sleeve shirt.
The difference is amazing.
The difference is amazing.
11-08-03, 05:08 AM
#33
EV ftw!!!
Originally posted by Pianoman72
I'm getting it from a place down the street from me listed under their "distributors" link.
EDIT: Ok I got a TON of it. THe R value is 13. It is basically recycled fabric just like what was already under the carpet on the Civic (it serves as padding, insulation and noise reduction), but this way I can add a lot more.
I have enough to do 10 or 12 cars so if anyone wants some hit me up. I can do a write-up on my install if anyone is interested.
I'm getting it from a place down the street from me listed under their "distributors" link.
EDIT: Ok I got a TON of it. THe R value is 13. It is basically recycled fabric just like what was already under the carpet on the Civic (it serves as padding, insulation and noise reduction), but this way I can add a lot more.
I have enough to do 10 or 12 cars so if anyone wants some hit me up. I can do a write-up on my install if anyone is interested.
I just sent you a PM!
11-08-03, 06:24 AM
#34
EV ftw!!!
Originally posted by O. L. T.
The fiberglass actually was a redeeming quality needed in my measurements. by doing that, you are just using factory dampening and not getting the effect of the panther and it's purpose. the fiberglass isn't hard to work with, if you are allergic to touching it, get some gloves and a long sleeve shirt.
The difference is amazing.
The fiberglass actually was a redeeming quality needed in my measurements. by doing that, you are just using factory dampening and not getting the effect of the panther and it's purpose. the fiberglass isn't hard to work with, if you are allergic to touching it, get some gloves and a long sleeve shirt.
The difference is amazing.
11-08-03, 10:31 AM
#35
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Well, I'm about to start soundproofing my SC soon.. Decided to order a batch of Brown Bread, based on the specs and price (Ebay). Plan to double/triple up on the problem areas and follow up w/ an absorber and barrier.
The best sound absorbers seem to be Melamine, Solimide, and Polyurethane foams, 3M thinsulate, and finally fiberglass insulation. Not sure how flexible the Melamine foam is, but both Melamine and Solimide foam are used on aircraft, etc.
Lead and vinyl seem to be the best barriers. They have near the same specs at the same weight / sq.ft., but lead is much thinner for the same performance (1/64" for 1lb/sq.ft). Lead may be slightly better even at the same weight, based on the first link below.
More info:
http://www.tpcdayton.com/NoiseContro...info/ntech.asp
http://quietsolution.com/Sound.pdf
http://mcmaster.com (search for sound)
http://www.customaudiodesigns.co.uk/help.htm
Products:
http://www.3m.com/us/auto_marine_aer...tic/index.html
http://products3.3m.com/catalog/us/e...er/output_html
http://products3.3m.com/catalog/us/e...er/output_html
http://www.inspecfoams.com/web/prod.html
http://www.earsc.com
http://www.skandiaupholsterysupplies...ge_ID=2&DID=36
The best sound absorbers seem to be Melamine, Solimide, and Polyurethane foams, 3M thinsulate, and finally fiberglass insulation. Not sure how flexible the Melamine foam is, but both Melamine and Solimide foam are used on aircraft, etc.
Lead and vinyl seem to be the best barriers. They have near the same specs at the same weight / sq.ft., but lead is much thinner for the same performance (1/64" for 1lb/sq.ft). Lead may be slightly better even at the same weight, based on the first link below.
More info:
http://www.tpcdayton.com/NoiseContro...info/ntech.asp
http://quietsolution.com/Sound.pdf
http://mcmaster.com (search for sound)
http://www.customaudiodesigns.co.uk/help.htm
Products:
http://www.3m.com/us/auto_marine_aer...tic/index.html
http://products3.3m.com/catalog/us/e...er/output_html
http://products3.3m.com/catalog/us/e...er/output_html
http://www.inspecfoams.com/web/prod.html
http://www.earsc.com
http://www.skandiaupholsterysupplies...ge_ID=2&DID=36
11-08-03, 01:33 PM
#36
Lexus Test Driver
Join Date: Mar 2003
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Well let me share my experience with sound deadening. I ordered 2 rolls of Raammat and used all 2 rolls on my trunk/trunklid/behind the rear seats/rear lid, didnt even do the doors. I still rattle horribly. However, Raam did improve the rattling somewhat, but it deffinetely couldnt contain a 13w7's wrath. As a side note, please please please install Mat properly the first time, because of my stupididy I didnt place back the trunk lid cover, and left my mat exposed. Well my amp is mounted on top so there was probably 2" space from the amp and the exposed Raammat, the heat from the amp melted the maat off slowly and the great mat tar dripped all over my beautiful amps and sub.
So if anyone wants to install a powerful system in an SC, I suggest you soundeaden it to death before doing so. I have 4 layers of maat on my trunk lid and ive been knocked out by it many times because it wont stay open, 2 Layers around the trunk, 2 layers of carpet padding + 1 layer of mat on the rear deck, 2 layers behind the rear seats.
On a side note, anyone have their stock sub and would care to sell it ? I think if I put the weight of the stock sub back onto the deck, my deck wouldnt rattle so violently.
So if anyone wants to install a powerful system in an SC, I suggest you soundeaden it to death before doing so. I have 4 layers of maat on my trunk lid and ive been knocked out by it many times because it wont stay open, 2 Layers around the trunk, 2 layers of carpet padding + 1 layer of mat on the rear deck, 2 layers behind the rear seats.
On a side note, anyone have their stock sub and would care to sell it ? I think if I put the weight of the stock sub back onto the deck, my deck wouldnt rattle so violently.
11-08-03, 04:25 PM
#37
Racer
This is slightly off-topic, but I have to ask:
Why are rattling issues such as the ones you refer to always addressed by adding mat?
If I had such rattles, I'd try to find what two pieces are touching, and moving one or placing a pad tween the two.
Or are these rattles you refer to only caused by a single surface vibrating too much?
If the latter, I certainly understand why you'd add more mat.
Why are rattling issues such as the ones you refer to always addressed by adding mat?
If I had such rattles, I'd try to find what two pieces are touching, and moving one or placing a pad tween the two.
Or are these rattles you refer to only caused by a single surface vibrating too much?
If the latter, I certainly understand why you'd add more mat.
11-08-03, 04:57 PM
#38
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Originally posted by O. L. T.
Oh, and i am doing this in my bimmer (thin skinned) and am going to take sound clips before and after. should be soon
Oh, and i am doing this in my bimmer (thin skinned) and am going to take sound clips before and after. should be soon
11-08-03, 06:51 PM
#39
I spoke to the distributor of RAAmat. Nice guy. He mentioned that using neoprene is an excellent material in conjunction with the mat for sound proofing. He has had a lot of success with this stuff, he also has a BADA$$ turbo-charged Toyota Matrix.
For myself, the PP, I could never use. When I recently built my house, I frequently inspected it personally to ensure the subs were performing their work properly. I had them add additional fiberglass in between the walls for sound deadening. When I walked into the house, I got extremely ill within minutes of arriving. I researched what chemical may be in the "pink" stuff that might possibly make me ill. I found out that they use a small amount of formaldehyde in the the manufacturing process and in the glue. I had it all removed, even from the ceiling, and had the white glass installed instead- guaranteed- no formaldehyde. That stuff would just leach into the car- especially when it was hot.
I know not everybody reacts to formaldehyde, but even small amounts of that stuff is poisonous.
Ryan
For myself, the PP, I could never use. When I recently built my house, I frequently inspected it personally to ensure the subs were performing their work properly. I had them add additional fiberglass in between the walls for sound deadening. When I walked into the house, I got extremely ill within minutes of arriving. I researched what chemical may be in the "pink" stuff that might possibly make me ill. I found out that they use a small amount of formaldehyde in the the manufacturing process and in the glue. I had it all removed, even from the ceiling, and had the white glass installed instead- guaranteed- no formaldehyde. That stuff would just leach into the car- especially when it was hot.
I know not everybody reacts to formaldehyde, but even small amounts of that stuff is poisonous.
Ryan
08-09-04, 02:21 AM
#43
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I'd like to know how SC400-V8's deadening project came out. SC's are quiet cars, but if an improvment can be made, I'd like to hear about it. I reduced the road in my AWD DSM by 3 dB by lining the rear floor and vertical portions with Dexdamp:
http://www.hamiltonjet.com/noise/noiseinfo.html
It's too bad that Perry didn't get a before/after measurement, since it seems like most of the noise I hear in my SC is coming from the rear wheel well area. FWIW, Radio Shack has dB meters for ~$10. One post I read mentioned that the biggest gains were from doing the door skins. To my ears, this doesn't seem true, but I'll get out the dB meter and see from what direction the loudest noise originates from. IMHO, the quieter the car, the less the necessity for a mega-wattage stereo.
http://www.hamiltonjet.com/noise/noiseinfo.html
It's too bad that Perry didn't get a before/after measurement, since it seems like most of the noise I hear in my SC is coming from the rear wheel well area. FWIW, Radio Shack has dB meters for ~$10. One post I read mentioned that the biggest gains were from doing the door skins. To my ears, this doesn't seem true, but I'll get out the dB meter and see from what direction the loudest noise originates from. IMHO, the quieter the car, the less the necessity for a mega-wattage stereo.
08-13-04, 08:08 AM
#44
Racer
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Originally posted by mikee72
I'd like to know how SC400-V8's deadening project came out. SC's are quiet cars, but if an improvment can be made, I'd like to hear about it. I reduced the road in my AWD DSM by 3 dB by lining the rear floor and vertical portions with Dexdamp:
http://www.hamiltonjet.com/noise/noiseinfo.html
It's too bad that Perry didn't get a before/after measurement, since it seems like most of the noise I hear in my SC is coming from the rear wheel well area. FWIW, Radio Shack has dB meters for ~$10. One post I read mentioned that the biggest gains were from doing the door skins. To my ears, this doesn't seem true, but I'll get out the dB meter and see from what direction the loudest noise originates from. IMHO, the quieter the car, the less the necessity for a mega-wattage stereo.
I'd like to know how SC400-V8's deadening project came out. SC's are quiet cars, but if an improvment can be made, I'd like to hear about it. I reduced the road in my AWD DSM by 3 dB by lining the rear floor and vertical portions with Dexdamp:
http://www.hamiltonjet.com/noise/noiseinfo.html
It's too bad that Perry didn't get a before/after measurement, since it seems like most of the noise I hear in my SC is coming from the rear wheel well area. FWIW, Radio Shack has dB meters for ~$10. One post I read mentioned that the biggest gains were from doing the door skins. To my ears, this doesn't seem true, but I'll get out the dB meter and see from what direction the loudest noise originates from. IMHO, the quieter the car, the less the necessity for a mega-wattage stereo.
Other than the extremely small interior sounds here and there... this is quite possibly a perfect car.
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