Nomis

RalAegidius, good points. Another thing I've found is that the 92-early 94 are different P/N than the late 94-00. Possibly different design. I know i couldn't remove my regulator seperate from the motor - I had to pull them out as a unit. Also, good news is that I've sourced a regulator w/motor out of a '98 from a salvage yard up north and I should have it by the end of the week - total cost $80, plus shipping, I'll take it.

O. L. T.

iTrader: (17)

For the record, i have both styles of regulator here. One has a shorter spread on the bolt pattern, and the rail is shorter, as is the cable. one will not bolt up in place of the other. All the bolts are off by at least half an inch.

Nomis

Thanks for all your help on this one, O.L.T., do you know which one is shorter - just out of curiosity. Thanks.

O. L. T.

iTrader: (17)

newer style. My spare is from an SC300, and mine is an SC400... may or may not have something to do with it.

Tryk

Does anyone have the Toyota/lexus part number for just the regulator part(not the whole assembly including the motor)?? It would be nice to have the correct part number when I go to the dealership for pricing. Thanks

rhubarb999

I just ordered a drivers side regulator from Carson Toyota .. $82 plus $10 shipping for it and some other stuff. Took them about 20 seconds to find it in the computer.

Nomis

It will be different for your 92, but the late 94-00 use the Lexus P/N 69801-24041 for the rigt (pax) side.

Right Side window regulator w/motor assembly is 69810-24050.

RalAegidius

Yes, as I recall, the regulator for my car only fits 92-94 model years. It's a different part for later SC's. But I don't know what the actual part number is, sorry.

Deceptik1

iTrader: (6)

I just replaced my driver side window regulator today and was curious if most of you guys who have taken out your regulators if your window automatically drops down from its position? The reason I am asking is because I drove around for 4 months without the regulator in place and whatever position I put my window in it stayed put and was a ****** to move up and down. Could my window frame be overly dirty and grimey from the past 12 years to the point where the window is difficult to move up and down or is this the case for most of you guys. Let me know because if this isn't the case then I'm going to have to clean the hell out of my window frame.

Nomis

Yup, the added friction created by the dirty tracks most likely caused the failure initially. I would definately make it a point to thouroughly clean all contact points, lest the same fate befall your new regulator. On a side note, I had to prop my window up after the removal of the regulator due to the lack of friction; I actually had visions of the glass sliding down like a guillotine, and amputating my hand, ouch. This never came to fruition though, as I fashioned a prop out of PVC pipe - which is still supporting the window until the replacement comes in. Use a silicone spray to lube the guides
when you get everything cleaned up. However, DO NOT USE SPRAY LITHIUM GREASE, it will operate smoothly at first, but then it turns tacky and will actually impede movement.

SPORTcoupe

iTrader: (2)

Same here. If the window was fully closed, it would take a little wiggling to get it down an inch, but after the first inch, the window would pretty much drop.

twylie

iTrader: (3)

going to pick up one of these for my wife's '94 SC4 and figured I'd post the part number for reference.

Drivers side regulator only (no motor) for early production (1/94 or earlier build date):

P/N: 69802-24032

retail price is $166ish, so be sure to ask for a discount.

-twylie

Seismic

I tried OLT's fix as well, but to no avail. I think it was mostly due to the failure of the plastic part to begin with, not the fix itself. I sanded, and I cleaned the surfaces with alcohol, but the part just broke again once the window reached the full up position. I have a piece of wood propping up the window inside the door.

Now, to find another regulator, passenger side, and cheap!

twylie

iTrader: (3)

I've searched and read all the threads on fixing the plastic slide in the window regulator. I had already decided to replace mine with a new part as my motor is still good. I've removed the regulator and motor and will pick up the replacement regulator tomorrow AM for the transplant. Upon removal, it was obvious that a replacement was the only way to go in my case, my clip was broken in 2 places - one of the slide ears was half gone, and the center section break that is the common failure point.

Is swapping these out going to be as easy as unspooling and respooling the cable/wheel in the motor housing? I haven't seen any posts that detail the regulator replacement so any help is appreciated.

Many thanks for any advice or tips.

-twylie

PS - I'll be sure to charge the camera & take pics of the assembly process for future reference.

Deceptik1

iTrader: (6)

Mine was broken in two places also and I changed mine recently. When you get the new regulator all you have to do is unbolt the two screws and take off the spool cover from the motor and then slide the new one in. Your new regulator should come with a new spool cover as Toyota changed the design of the spool cover for some reason.