Window regulator fix for Sc models
10-11-05, 12:59 PM
#106
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I got the door paneling off . piece of cake! Also the window began working again .. it goes up and down just fine now. There is a clunk when it goes all the way to the top. So I think I'm almost broken. I will pick up some JB weld tonight and something to clean out the rails and hopefully I should be good.
this thread was a great help! thanks.
this thread was a great help! thanks.
10-11-05, 02:58 PM
#107
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Just my .02.....
Unless you are completly broke and can't afford the $97. (shipped from Carson Toyota), I wouldn't waste my time on trying to repair the regulator..... I replaced mine last weekend, as mentioned here, the door panel is pretty much a piece of cake and I found a couple write ups on here about that.... I think London Bill's soarer site and intellexual.net (sp?) both have them... let me know if you can't find them, I printed them out, have them at home and could send the web sites and, since I have very recent hands on experience I could answer questions you might have. Anyway, back to my 2 cents, getting the regulator loose from the glass and out of the door is a little more challenging than removing the panel and while not highly difficult I wouldn't waste my time on a maybe fix just to have to do it all over again... if you want to double the difficulty, try gluing the cable back in to the nylon glide and then wind it back on to the spool and attach the spool to the motor again, a tedious repair, as documented here, that seldom lasts or at best is 50/50 shot.... just mho.... These are amazing cars and you and the car deserve appropriate, long lasting repairs .... best of luck regardless.
Unless you are completly broke and can't afford the $97. (shipped from Carson Toyota), I wouldn't waste my time on trying to repair the regulator..... I replaced mine last weekend, as mentioned here, the door panel is pretty much a piece of cake and I found a couple write ups on here about that.... I think London Bill's soarer site and intellexual.net (sp?) both have them... let me know if you can't find them, I printed them out, have them at home and could send the web sites and, since I have very recent hands on experience I could answer questions you might have. Anyway, back to my 2 cents, getting the regulator loose from the glass and out of the door is a little more challenging than removing the panel and while not highly difficult I wouldn't waste my time on a maybe fix just to have to do it all over again... if you want to double the difficulty, try gluing the cable back in to the nylon glide and then wind it back on to the spool and attach the spool to the motor again, a tedious repair, as documented here, that seldom lasts or at best is 50/50 shot.... just mho.... These are amazing cars and you and the car deserve appropriate, long lasting repairs .... best of luck regardless.
10-11-05, 03:02 PM
#108
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I never had luck with the damn thing and ended up buying a new one for ~115.
I have the complete repair manual in PDF form and they have this to say for the 1995 SC300
http://todd.gatorline.com/1995SC300Door.pdf
-Todd
I have the complete repair manual in PDF form and they have this to say for the 1995 SC300
http://todd.gatorline.com/1995SC300Door.pdf
-Todd
10-11-05, 04:19 PM
#109
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Thanks guys I defintely appreciate the advice. While a $100 isn't a big deal, if I can get it done for $5. I'd like to give it a try. I've got nothing to lose besides my time. And this car is more of a hobby then anything else, I enjoy spending time working on it. Even if it something dumb like a window regulator.
ok the light bulb finally clicked on how to disconnect the window from the bracket. My question now is where along the metal rod did you guys bend it to pop the plastic piece out (top or bottom)? Or does it even make a difference?
ok the light bulb finally clicked on how to disconnect the window from the bracket. My question now is where along the metal rod did you guys bend it to pop the plastic piece out (top or bottom)? Or does it even make a difference?
10-11-05, 04:52 PM
#110
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You don't need to do any bending.... disconect regulator from glass, take out bolts that hold the regulator and motor in the door and remove the whole assembly.
10-11-05, 05:13 PM
#111
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Originally Posted by Lexnorwest
You don't need to do any bending.... disconect regulator from glass, take out bolts that hold the regulator and motor in the door and remove the whole assembly.
sdastg1, go about 2 inches from the bottom.
10-17-05, 03:31 PM
#112
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ok so I got time for this today. I was able to pull the plastic piece out by bending the rail. I didn't have to bend too much b/c the two plastic pieces on the left side of the picture were worn down/broken off (as marked in the picture). 
So do you think it's salvagable? Or should I just go ahead and order a new one. The one on the right is intact.
Also I have another question. The metal wire runs up and connects to the motor. Where the spool is on the motor, there is a metal plate cover over it, with two screws. Do I remove this metal plate in order to get the wire to release and pull it out?
Basically how do I get the wire out is what I'm asking?
So do you think it's salvagable? Or should I just go ahead and order a new one. The one on the right is intact.
Also I have another question. The metal wire runs up and connects to the motor. Where the spool is on the motor, there is a metal plate cover over it, with two screws. Do I remove this metal plate in order to get the wire to release and pull it out?
Basically how do I get the wire out is what I'm asking?
10-18-05, 06:07 AM
#114
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Originally Posted by twylie
going to pick up one of these for my wife's '94 SC4 and figured I'd post the part number for reference.
Drivers side regulator only (no motor) for early production (1/94 or earlier build date):
P/N: 69802-24032
retail price is $166ish, so be sure to ask for a discount.
-twylie
Drivers side regulator only (no motor) for early production (1/94 or earlier build date):
P/N: 69802-24032
retail price is $166ish, so be sure to ask for a discount.
-twylie
Is this the same part number for an 92 ... or are the part numbers different?
10-18-05, 06:16 AM
#115
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putting all the info into one thread for someone else's future reference
Regulator
92-93
R- 69801-24033 $94.73
L- 69802-24033 $94.73
94
R- 69801-24032 $94.73
L- 69802-24032 $94.73
95-00
R- 69801-24041 $97.51
L- 69802-24041 $97.51
Regulator
92-93
R- 69801-24033 $94.73
L- 69802-24033 $94.73
94
R- 69801-24032 $94.73
L- 69802-24032 $94.73
95-00
R- 69801-24041 $97.51
L- 69802-24041 $97.51
10-18-05, 02:28 PM
#116
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Possible Preventative measure
I have used the JBweld repair successfully on the driver's door of my 92 SC400.
With all the failures I added an 1 1/2"long small diameter stove bolt w/ washers thru the plastic parrallel to the wire. The washers need to be slotted to get next to the wire and ground flat on the channel side of the plastic.
I'm thinking that the bolt alone on an undamaged peice might prevent the plastic failure in the first place, so I'm going in the passenger door this weekend.
Thanks for the original Idea it was very creative and seemed to be needed by many of us.
TexLex92
92 SC400 155K and rising.
With all the failures I added an 1 1/2"long small diameter stove bolt w/ washers thru the plastic parrallel to the wire. The washers need to be slotted to get next to the wire and ground flat on the channel side of the plastic.
I'm thinking that the bolt alone on an undamaged peice might prevent the plastic failure in the first place, so I'm going in the passenger door this weekend.
Thanks for the original Idea it was very creative and seemed to be needed by many of us.
TexLex92
92 SC400 155K and rising.
10-18-05, 02:50 PM
#117
Racer
Originally Posted by Deceptik1
I get what you mean now. The ferrule you're referring to supports the plastic piece on either side and lessens the strain on the center piece inside the plastic. Where could I get some ferrules as this is the first time I have ever heard of them?
It would be wise for anyone looking to keep their car for a while to perform this little bit of preventative maintenance, unfortunately, that plastic assembly is not very accessible in the installed position.
( EDIT: So I came up with a different way that accomplishes the same thing - see my thread at: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-...-not-easy.html )
Last edited by PERRYinLA; 06-17-09 at 11:40 PM.
11-07-05, 07:56 AM
#118
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ok so I got the window regulator in from carson toyota this past week, and I went to put it in this weekend. But it appears to be the one for the passenger side. I checked the part number and it matches the part number for the driver's side listed above. (69802-24033)
When I line up the regulator with the metal bracket facing toward me, and wire (that is running inside the metal bracket) facing the driver's side door, the spool that is supposed to go into the motor, is on the lower left hand side. Instead of being on the right so that it fits into the motor. I hope that made sense.
Am I doing something wrong? Or did they just slip a passenger side into the driver's side packaging ?
When I line up the regulator with the metal bracket facing toward me, and wire (that is running inside the metal bracket) facing the driver's side door, the spool that is supposed to go into the motor, is on the lower left hand side. Instead of being on the right so that it fits into the motor. I hope that made sense.
Am I doing something wrong? Or did they just slip a passenger side into the driver's side packaging ?
03-30-06, 11:59 PM
#119
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What I do is avoid rolling down the windows to avoid a potential pita. Get your butt out of the car instead of going in drive throughs = no pita work and or lexus labor.parts costs. 
11-29-06, 01:27 PM
#120
Lexus Test Driver
I shoulda tried this instead of throwing $85 at a used one-- I have much faith in JB kwik-- another epoxy-- Marine Tex-- xuper strong--
Among others-- the strength of the the epoxy's hold has a lot to do with how thoroughly you mix it combined with how well and liberally you apply it to the area-- I think a nice addition to the epoxy would be some bailing wire strapped around the cable on either side of the metal ball on the cable -- just use a small drill bit-- like 1/16" on either side of the metal square thing on the up side and the down side-- wrap it tightly-- really tightly-- and use some good epoxy over that--
Fishing lure epoxy comes to mind-- or maybe encase the whole thing in fiberglass resin-- and shape it properly-- just other ideas--
Silver solder comes to mind too-- this could really work well if done right-- even better than epoxy-- but both together would be stronger than the original--
Among others-- the strength of the the epoxy's hold has a lot to do with how thoroughly you mix it combined with how well and liberally you apply it to the area-- I think a nice addition to the epoxy would be some bailing wire strapped around the cable on either side of the metal ball on the cable -- just use a small drill bit-- like 1/16" on either side of the metal square thing on the up side and the down side-- wrap it tightly-- really tightly-- and use some good epoxy over that--
Fishing lure epoxy comes to mind-- or maybe encase the whole thing in fiberglass resin-- and shape it properly-- just other ideas--
Silver solder comes to mind too-- this could really work well if done right-- even better than epoxy-- but both together would be stronger than the original--