SC400 Right Window Replacement?
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SC400 Right Window Replacement?
Cheers everyone. I got myself an SC400 couple days ago and one of the first problems that I decided to address was the locked passenger door (cant open from inside or outside). I looked through this forum but I couldn't get the door to open so I had to take the car to a body shop. They massively scratched the window and are suggesting to break it to get access to the lock rods/locking mechanism. I just ordered a cheap endoscope and gonna try to use it to push the locking rod with a long screwdriver. Question is - I'm seeing two different types of windows on ebay, so which one to get? And should I replace everything while I'm at it? (window regulator, actuator, etc?)
Last edited by n0cturnali; 10-11-21 at 07:00 PM. Reason: Grammar
#2
Welcome to the CL forums! And... I'm sorry... that really sucks!
First off, there is a certain way the lock mechanism needs to come out. It CAN be done with the window still installed but regardless of whether or not you do it the way the SC300/400 TSRM tells you to or the way the CL Forum DIY method tells you to it's a PITA job.
I hope the window is salvageable.
The shop's suggestion to BREAK your car's window is ludicrous. Take your car back from them immediately and do not go back there!! They have NO idea what they are doing if they're suggesting that just to change out the lock solenoid assembly. Really--- get your car out of there pronto if that is the level of their problem solving capability and lack of being able to find instructions to actually help them do the job correctly.
Here are pointers to get it done correctly. You may need a screw/bolt extractor in one or two areas that hold the lock assembly in place which will require you buying new factory bolts/screws for those areas. I only had this issue when removing one such screw. Using the correct size Philips screwdriver or screwdriver head (with some leather gloves to help your hands) is very key to avoiding that.
It's a little reading but familiarize yourself with these threads before proceeding. Also the SC300/400 TSRM manual in PDF form will cover this the official Toyota/Lexus way as well.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...-actuator.html
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-...nger-door.html
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...-actuator.html
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-...tor-sc400.html
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-...d-problem.html
Most of those taken from our main big FAQ thread on various how-to and DIY fixes:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-...tart-here.html
As for the parts:
Try ordering whichever you need from MyLParts or Amayama:
—69040-24080 — Lock Assy LH SC300/400 (Actuator assy)
—69030-24070 — Lock Assy RH SC300/400 (Actuator assy)
Also, order these clips which go onto the lock actuator's upper rod on each side. They are cheap and essential since they can get brittle and break after 20+ years and if they do the actuator rod they are attached to can go out of alignment and become damaged if your window glass goes down on top of a free floating actuator rod. Never re-use these clips. Just replace them with new ones:
—69293-12040 — SC300/400 Lock Actuator Clip LH Side
—69293-12030 — SC300/400 Lock Actuator Clip RH Side
First off, there is a certain way the lock mechanism needs to come out. It CAN be done with the window still installed but regardless of whether or not you do it the way the SC300/400 TSRM tells you to or the way the CL Forum DIY method tells you to it's a PITA job.
I hope the window is salvageable.
The shop's suggestion to BREAK your car's window is ludicrous. Take your car back from them immediately and do not go back there!! They have NO idea what they are doing if they're suggesting that just to change out the lock solenoid assembly. Really--- get your car out of there pronto if that is the level of their problem solving capability and lack of being able to find instructions to actually help them do the job correctly.
Here are pointers to get it done correctly. You may need a screw/bolt extractor in one or two areas that hold the lock assembly in place which will require you buying new factory bolts/screws for those areas. I only had this issue when removing one such screw. Using the correct size Philips screwdriver or screwdriver head (with some leather gloves to help your hands) is very key to avoiding that.
It's a little reading but familiarize yourself with these threads before proceeding. Also the SC300/400 TSRM manual in PDF form will cover this the official Toyota/Lexus way as well.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...-actuator.html
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-...nger-door.html
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...-actuator.html
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-...tor-sc400.html
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-...d-problem.html
Most of those taken from our main big FAQ thread on various how-to and DIY fixes:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-...tart-here.html
As for the parts:
Try ordering whichever you need from MyLParts or Amayama:
—69040-24080 — Lock Assy LH SC300/400 (Actuator assy)
—69030-24070 — Lock Assy RH SC300/400 (Actuator assy)
Also, order these clips which go onto the lock actuator's upper rod on each side. They are cheap and essential since they can get brittle and break after 20+ years and if they do the actuator rod they are attached to can go out of alignment and become damaged if your window glass goes down on top of a free floating actuator rod. Never re-use these clips. Just replace them with new ones:
—69293-12040 — SC300/400 Lock Actuator Clip LH Side
—69293-12030 — SC300/400 Lock Actuator Clip RH Side
Last edited by KahnBB6; 10-11-21 at 07:35 PM.
The following 2 users liked this post by KahnBB6:
Bimmerbill (10-12-21),
Turbostar (10-14-21)
#3
Lead Lap
iTrader: (8)
To address a couple points...
Those pictures are of the same style window. Only difference is, the first one shows the metal bracket that the regulator moves the window up and down via. The bolts go through that bracket and the nylon hole grommet thingies in the second pic. They're 14mm square heads, accessible from the back with an open box wrench, if you do need to remove them. Doing so frees the window from the regulator, so if you do need to remove the window, that's how you do so without breaking it.
There are two versions of the window, though, with there being a change in '95 to the height of the glass and corresponding travel of the regulator. You can't tell them apart from looking at them, gotta measure 'em or see the two types side by side.
Those pictures are of the same style window. Only difference is, the first one shows the metal bracket that the regulator moves the window up and down via. The bolts go through that bracket and the nylon hole grommet thingies in the second pic. They're 14mm square heads, accessible from the back with an open box wrench, if you do need to remove them. Doing so frees the window from the regulator, so if you do need to remove the window, that's how you do so without breaking it.
There are two versions of the window, though, with there being a change in '95 to the height of the glass and corresponding travel of the regulator. You can't tell them apart from looking at them, gotta measure 'em or see the two types side by side.
The following users liked this post:
KahnBB6 (10-12-21)
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